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| Tech Questions Technical difficulties, broken ride and/or equipment malfunction |
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#1 |
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Forum CONDUCTOR Man
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,857
Rep Power: 35 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Chasin the belt squeak...
Not really lookin for advice so much, just feel like venting. Post up though if you see something I missed.
My "seller" Plat w/242 Niner has the old fan belt squeak. New belt - nope. Newer but used pulleys - nope. Tried stethescope trick to the stuff I could reach but should have had a longer one - nope Tried ye olde hose trick - nope. Wasn't quite long enough to reach balancer area though. (as an FYI for those not familiar with it. Hose to the ear is a lot like the stethoscope. Good for hearing mechanical transients from things you can't put a stethoscope on due to movement like balancer etc but it's actually usually used for hearing vaccuum leak hisses) Tried tightening PS pump - nope. Tried varying tension on tensioner - nope. Looked at lineup of pulleys. Looks good. EDIT: Tried spraying various pulleys and components, both on surface and bearing area, AC clutch etc. I do need to try spraying up the W/pump weep hole though. Two most frustrating parts - 1) Whenever you replace something it's always quiet - for a day. Next day it's back. 2) Really drives me nuts, I can't even generalize the area. I can listen around the motor and get fairly close to it but it always seems to be in a different spot depending on where I listen from. Low, high, left, right. aargh! Going to do a bit more of this steth stuff and get a longer hose and get a better listen on the balancer before I resort to swapping parts. Mainly hoping its not the W/pump just cause it's the most work to replace. There. I vented. Feel better now. Last edited by Z88Z; 01-13-2009 at 10:36 AM. |
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#2 |
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Administrator
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It's the water pump.
Now what would be the ideal condition for replacing that ?
__________________
-Davit. 98 ZJ 5.9L Slate Click here for MODS 96 ZJ 4.0L Gold 3.5" lift F>R, 31s", '00 intake manifold, K&N Fipk, 62mm TB, Gibson headers, 2.5" exhaust with dynatech race cat and Magnaflow
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#3 | |
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Forum CONDUCTOR Man
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,857
Rep Power: 35 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I'll have to go back and edit that. I did try spraying each pulley or bearing I could reach too. I'll have to try spraying up the weep hole. If you're right Davit - I'll even give you your ammo back EDIT - via express air mail!
Last edited by Z88Z; 01-12-2009 at 09:08 PM. |
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#4 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
ugh, my power steering pump is gonna **** the bed soo. betl squeels like a mofo. pump makes a clicking/popping noise at idle.
and my mopar water pump doesnt pump for dick.
__________________
Ross, aka fagotron. 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited ML Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - FUBAR'd trans & "2900" stall - Summit CD Box - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit
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#5 |
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Watch This..
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bushland, TX
Posts: 496
Rep Power: 10 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Had the same problem a while back. I ended up swapping in a belt that was a couple mm's smaller, and no more squeak...
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Ive got a few Jeeps... Each with a few mods... Post Disclaimer: I dont live on planet Love-A-Lot and I dont sit in circles holding hands singing Kum Ba Ya. If you dont like my opinion just take it with a grain of salt, like I did yours, and simply move on. The sun will still rise, and it will be ok......
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#6 |
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Forum CONDUCTOR Man
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,857
Rep Power: 35 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Saleen - Is your squeaking coming from the pump itself? If it is, can you hear it using the stethoscope method?
When you say Mopar w/ pump I assume you mean the MP one, or are you talking factory? How bad is the flow, bad enough to need replacing? I'm not as concerned about PS pump or alternator as I am about the w/ pump or maybe the AC compressor. One of the only casualties during my 98 5.2 parts removal was breaking the PS pump's return nipple off the plastic housing. Started thinking plastic housing / metal pump body hmmm. Checked FSM and sure enough two clips and an O-ring hold it so I still have a spare. Really hate for one of the Niner alts to be bad but I do have a spare I can reluctantly use. Easy enough to swap though. Parts car even has a real good AC compressor - just hate to have to change it cuz the AC works good on this Plat Niner. Compressor is simple swap too but I'd hate paying for the "vac and whack" for the AC charge. Water pump - I really hope it's not the w/ pump. It's the biggest job of all of this plus it's the one part I wouldn't throw on there used. That leaves the balancer. I've heard they can go bad (rubber separation) but that needs more looking into at this point. Dmntexan - Pretty sure it isn't the belt. Not that I'd really recommend this procedure to others but, I threw a small 3/8 breaker bar and socket on the tensioner pulley bolt at idle and levered it back and fourth a bit to increase/decrease belt tension. Got worse when it was loose but only got marginally better when it was tighter. The other thing it does that's a bit odd - the tensioner has a bit of 'jump' to it. It moves maybe an eigth of an inch in quick jerks, moreso when I give it mild revs. I believe that's more of a symptom than the cause as the newer Dark Slate Nine does the same thing - but it has no belt squeak at all. So, of all the ZJs, these two are the only ones with the 'jumpy' tensioners, but the Plat is the only one making the squeak squeak. Bottom line on all this - I really hope it's the PS pump. A bit messy but it's free and not complicated. |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 27
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Id almost bet money on the tensioner or water pump. But then again if it was the WP, steth would hear it.
The tensioners are notorios for appearing inline, but in actuality they can easily have a warped spin that is unnoticeable and its hard to detect with a steth. Someone was supposed to buy one from me but never heard from him. I have two of them if that turns out to be your problem. Chrysler charges I think $120 for them!!!!! If you wanna get real serious, get a microphone and a laptop and make a recording of all the pulleys while the belt is squealing. Send me the MP3 and I can use my Cubase program to isolate the squeal and tell you which pulley its coming from!!!! Guaranteed cure! |
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#8 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Z88Z - with my heat on, as soon as my rev's drop below ~1500, there is a NOTICABLE loss in the temperature of the air pumping in. if i am in traffic, or parked, or whatever, the temp will creep up well over 210. the e-fan will bring it back down to 210, but it will only gounder if i bump the idle up to 1500+
new rad, new tstat, garbage mopar OEM pump. im still considering having my old pump rebuilt. and my PS pump shot a bearing out the front yesterday. wee... power steering pump squeels are very common, as the bracket that the pump mounts to commonly cracks, which you cant usually see until you loosen the bracket, and it comes off the motor in 2 pieces. but luckily that piece is only about $25 IIRC |
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#9 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 339
Rep Power: 2 ![]() |
Quote:
If I had access to your collection, I would just be swapping parts over. Went to a Goodyear belt when I had a squeak and never looked back. You could feel the difference in how it grabbed, because the standard Gates will slip more easily when it gets worn, especially off the line. Quote:
__________________
Supercharged '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9er Hemifever SCT Tuned / Meth Injected / Vortech V-2 SQ Supercharger / F&B 52mm TB / P&P Kegger / Southeast Performαnce Blower Built 360 & CNC Ported 2.02 R/T Heads / COMP Cams Custom Cam / Crower Rockers / Edelbrock Headers / MSaine Valve Body / 247|249 Hybrid Transfer Case / Kolak Exhaust / 160A Police Package Alternator / Mopar Vulcanized Rubber Cupholder Last edited by WiCKeD; 01-17-2009 at 12:53 PM. |
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#10 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hmmmm interesting wicked - is it bolt in?? Or did you have to do any mods??
How much is an OE mopar unit? |
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#11 | ||
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i spank saleens
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 385
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
Quote:
Do you have, or did you go to the small pulleys . sound like you did, and the water pump slows to much and the alt.. Also always use the w/ac water pump or flowcooler style. Quote:
__________________
]=Long Island Driveshaft=[ www.supershafts.com 631-514-1034 LIMA the racers voice http://www.limotorsports.net |
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#12 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
marty i ahve stock pulleys.
even when i had the 3 piece underdirve set my heat still worked, and my jeep did not overheat. |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 339
Rep Power: 2 ![]() |
Quote:
OEM Mopar is showing $340, aftermarket reman'd <$90, used < $60. Obviously there are options, if you just want a replacement. |
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#14 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
i woudl go with that one, if i had more than 2 days left at home!!!
i will check with my buddys at the dealer tomorrow, then autozone. there is an autozone right near my school, so if anythign goes south i can get it replaced. |
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#15 |
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illiterate sumamabitch
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,279
Rep Power: 13 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
z88z idler or tensioner pully i have seen them oblong out the hole and make noise but . that plastic res tank is a killer i think once i have removed one without brakin the tank is some spot .
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#16 | ||
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Forum CONDUCTOR Man
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: near Boston
Posts: 3,857
Rep Power: 35 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
AC comp - easy enough too but hate to discharge a working system - unless I knew that was the problem. PS bracket looks solid and PS pump doesn't seem to move but spose it would be easy enough to remove the pump to examine it. I just would really rather it wasn't the w/pump. Messy and expensive as I don't think I'd install a used one - would you? 5.2 and 5.9 w/pumps the same? This one is being repaired for resale so I don't think I'd go for that TJ pump on this one. As far as the jumpy tensioners - like I said, two jumpies out of six ZJs - and the other jumpy one doesn't make any noise. Really need a longer stethescope and a longer hose for better listening. Was really using steel rod, not a true steth but neither that or the hose were really long enough. Quote:
PS pump res didn't seem that hard. Broken one came off pretty easy at least. |
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#17 |
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illiterate sumamabitch
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,279
Rep Power: 13 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
they come off easy i just seem to always brake them . like always . a long extension isnt the same as a stethascope .
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#18 |
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Gerbil Lover
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,885
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
i usually use a screwdriver on my temple as a steth.
![]() hey Z im gonna PM you about a 5.9 part i need
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