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  1. #1
    Member YERFDOG's Avatar
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    New Headliner Pictures!

    Hey guys! So my headliner was beginning to sag/peel a little on the edges near the windshield, the door edges, and behind the visors. So I began looking around for materials online and ended up at my local Joann Fabrics. I never knew they actually sold Auto Headliner material. Why is Auto Headliner different? It has a foam backing on the material so the adhesive can stick to that and the fiberglass molding of our headliners. So I went ahead and bought 3 yards of black headliner material for $14.99 a yard. Joann's ALSO sold ""Headliner Adhesive" for $20 bucks a can and I bought 3 to be safe. I didn't recognize the brand so I was a little iffy cause the adhesive is the most important part of the project. Bad adhesive = sagging headliner. But it turned out to be awesome! It's high temp approved, and is really sticky. So anyway, I leave Joann's with about $110 spent. I felt pretty good about that.

    First I dropped my headliner of course. Then brought it inside my garage to work on. I peeled the stock fabric off and it left all the old foam backing stuck to the headliner board (which I knew would happen). Anyway this has to be the most "difficult" part of the project. You need to scrape of ALL the old foam so the new foam can have a nice new surface to stick on. Your best friend = wire brush. I bought a brand new BBQ brush for like $3 bucks and started scraping.



    About a half hour later:



    And another half hour later and vacuumed clean. I took my time with this, cause it wasn't the easiest to get into the crevices and you can't afford to be rough with the headliner board (don't want it breaking).



    Next I rolled the new material onto the headliner board. I wanted to align it with equal material on all sides.



    The next two pictures show the material glued onto the board with the excess hanging over the edges. What I did was glue one half at a time. I folded up the side I was about to spray and then applied the adhesive to BOTH surfaces, then carefully laid it back down rubbing my hands over the topside to ensure a good bond between the material's foam and the fiber glass headliner board.




    I then cut most (BUT NOT ALL) the excess material off the edges. I kept about 3-5 inches of excess depending on the area to fold to the opposite side and glue down to ensure a good tight fit around the edges and stop sagging from ever occuring again. Why didn't Chrysler do it like this in the first place? Well I cut the edges, folded the excess over to the other side, glued it down, and cut out all the necessary holes and here is the finished headliner board:



    And of course, the finished product:











    I did not want to mess with the visors, sunroof shade, or speaker bar cause I thought the contrast would look good. Feel free to ask any questions! I'm so happy I took the time to do this cause saggy headliner looks like CRAP!

  2. #2
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    Very nicely done Dawg! I had the 5.2 I sold done by some yahoos where I live in Mexico. They did a fair job. They went ahead and did my visors as well but broke one of the mirrors in the process. When my 9er needs the liner I'll do it myself. Thanks for the how to!

  3. #3
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    ditto on that ^

    Nicely done and nicely written up.

    And yes, I'm finding the contrast does look pretty decent. Sets it off and gives it a kind of custom feel.



    hmmm, might have to sticky this

  4. #4
    I am Joe 9859limited's Avatar
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    Nice job, I might have to do this if mine starts to get worse. And z do eeet

  5. #5
    Member YERFDOG's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I appreciate it! This could definitely use a sticky! Also, if anyone has already re-done their headliner, feel free to post it here! We could use this as "custom headliner" thread.
    Last edited by YERFDOG; 08-12-2012 at 12:40 PM.

  6. #6
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!, I always use Jo=anns...did alot of van interiors back in the day..."my sound bar is fubar" so..............
    Captain of the Nine

  7. #7
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    stuck!

  8. #8
    wolver1ne516 wolver1ne5167's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    ditto on that ^

    Nicely done and nicely written up.

    And yes, I'm finding the contrast does look pretty decent. Sets it off and gives it a kind of custom feel.



    hmmm, might have to sticky this
    Good Idea...!
    Hmmmmmmm....

  9. #9
    Resident Tooth Fairy BrianShaughnessy's Avatar
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    Nice job! I checked joann.com online and they only seem to have tan. But there is a dude on ebay I've bought from previously for the XJ that has dark gray. costs a little bit more but he does a good job. smsheadliners.
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  10. #10
    Enth E Nd JeepGuy98's Avatar
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    How about alcantara or suede? Thought about going realtree camo but might be too redneck for me

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  11. #11
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Hey Yerf... did you happen to take any photos of the Headliner removal? I have to replace my sunroof and I have the FSM which helps with the trim pieces, but any insight on how easy/hard it is? When I yanked the sunroof assembly out of the donor I cut and slashed the headliner as my help was bailing on me. I will probably redo it like you did while it is down.

  12. #12
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    Wow just bought the jeep and it needs the headliner done thanks I am doing it myself great pics

  13. #13
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    ...... but any insight on how easy/hard it is? ....
    Well this is pretty old, but I'll throw this out there.

    First off, if you're doing it outside don't try it on a real windy day, LOL. The 'shell' it's wrapped on isn't that strong, and if it bends you might end up with wrinkles. (even if you're recovering it with new material it can still bend along the creases)

    Have some place clean to put it down - especially if you're just R&Ring it to work on the sunroof or whatever and not doing a new headliner. Roof of the ZJ works pretty good - but keep in mind what I said about the wind if you're outside.


    It's a fun combination of easy and PITA at the same time. Nothing particularly hard - just a lot of little crap has to come out of the way.

    The obvious stuff:

    Overhead display and center light. I think they both have just either one screw or two, then they stay in place til you slide them off a T type thingy. Disconnect them once they're hanging. (It's been a while since I've done one - can't remember if the harness goes through the headliner on both of those or not, but you'd probably at least want them out of the way rather than hanging...)

    At this point, once the OHD and interior light have been removed and the cable disconnected - you're probably going to want to slide either one of them back on so it just catches on that T thingy. That will keep the headliner in place while you undo everything else, then just slide it off again when you're ready to pull it out of there.

    While you're in that area, remove the felt trim around the sunroof. That has a U channel that ties it into the sunroof frame IIRC.

    Undo the visors and the visor retainer clips - it can be a minor PITA pulling the cable through to where you can reach the connector as it's coming through a small space in the roof reinforcement and likes to catch on stuff.

    Undo the grab handles. Flip open the cover and there's one or two screws.

    Obviously the soundbar if it's a 5.9.
    The four screws under the caps and that center plastic thingy. I can't even remember if that plastic thing is threaded or just barbed on the inside, but try to unscrew it gently and maybe with some downward pressure applied on something thin behind it so it doesn't mess up the inside of it and lose any of it's grip.
    I think there's two more of those plastic push on thingies midway from the soundbar to the interior light - or that might just be on the non-soundbar ZJs. (just checked. These are on the 5.9 too)

    Pretty sure the rear trim with the overhead light has to come out too.
    There's several screws in there, drop it down and undo the connector. Try and be as gentle as possible when pulling it down as it has tabs with clips that snap into holes in the roof reinforcements, and these tabs on our 15+ year old trim are pretty brittle and like to break off. If they do, no major problem - you can still remount the trim and the screws will hold it in place just fine but that much nicer and less chance of rattles or vibes if the clips are still there.

    Then the A, B C, and D pillar trims have to come out.

    Same as above - all these pillar trims have the tabs and clips into the body too, so be gentle. Again, broken tabs won't prevent you from reinstalling them, but much better if you have them.

    The bottom of the pillar trims are trapped behind the lower trim, but I seem to recall there's just enough room to move them out of there without having to disturb the bottom trim

    Here's where it gets to be a minor PITA I think. I don't recall if there's room to pull the B & C pillar trim back and let it slide down without unbolting the upper seat belt bolts - but I'm pretty sure there isn't

    Once any screws and/or the seat belts are out of the way pull them straight back using care to keep the tabs intact - which gets a bit funky as at the same time you have to sort of work them around where they have a slight "grip" on the rubber door trim.
    Once the B & C trims are 'free' you should be able to let them just slide down out of the way.

    Now - the one thing I can't remember is whether the body side mount for the hatch struts (or maybe just the strut itself) needs to come out to remove the rear cargo light trim and the D pillar trim. I seem to recall that you can just move the trim by it, but I can't swear to it, so keep that in mind.

  14. #14
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I need to redo mine very soon! It's come free by both front doors and along the whole windsheild.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

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  15. #15
    5 Spd V8 ZJ 96zj318's Avatar
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    I should trade you my black speaker bar for your tan one as I have a tan interior and you have a black one. Lol
    96 ZJ 5 SPEED 5.2L 206,63x Miles. Mods: H&R Springs, Addco Sway Bars, Bilstein 4600 HDs, NV3500 Tranny , Air Gap Intake, Big Gulp TB, K&N CAI, Bosch 24 lb/hr 4-Hole Injectors, Iron Ram 2.02" Heads, Patriot Headers, Custom TRUE DUAL Exhaust, Hughes Cam, 242 T-Case, Taurus E-Fan, 5.9 Louvers & Wheels, 6k HIDs, MSD Ignition, GREEN L.E.D. Interior.

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