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  1. #76
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    Im pretty sure the front skid will not work with the wj bar. I did mine this past weekend and im 99% sure it wont fit unless you cut it up. On another note is anyone running Energy grease-able mount and bushings? If i were to do it again i would have just left the stock wj mounts at the yard and picked up some energy bushings from vatozone for $20. They are quite a bit smaller than the stock ones. Im not completely sure but this would allow you to run the sway-bar above the lower radiator hose with minimal pressure on the hose. I was able to make the stock mounts work but there is a bit more pressure on the lower hose than i would like.

  2. #77
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    just an update:
    i was pulling an object (whose name and vehicle shall remain nameless) but lets just say there was an f250 owner with a bruised ego

    well, long story short, my front tow hooks to his bumper and mine had just a touch too much grip. ripped the control arm bushing COMPLETELY out of the control arm. it happened on the front lower on the pass side. all 4 tires had solid traction, and i didnt spin.... much
    i think it was due in part from a lil axle wrap under the force. after all, im running 32" BFG Mud Terrains on a stock suspension.

    my point being, is that when i went to replace the bushing, i found out that they only sell the COMPLETE CONTROL ARM, and is around $100 USD. the 93-98 ZJ stock arms all have serviceable bushings.
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 318 V8 my "go-fast grocery getter"
    2001 Yamaha Raptor 660 "awesome quad"
    2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 supercharged "moms go-fast car"
    1999 Saturn SL2 1.9 Dual Cam I4 "supercharged go-fast car"
    1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4 Dual Cam V6 "rare go-fast drag car"

  3. #78
    Member 1nstyzj's Avatar
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    So I have no idea how to make it work with the lower rad hose on my 5.9

  4. #79
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    I had the same problem, I just put it in anyway. Not saying this is the recommended solution, but once all buttoned up there is minimal pressure on the lower rad hose. I've driven about 7k and no problems.

  5. #80
    Member Comanche County's Avatar
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    I did this on my lifted MJ....what a great and easy mod!

  6. #81
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    I didn't read every post, just kinda skimmed thru. But I did this on my niner. My sway bar needed end links and I was hoping this would be a cheaper solution. But it does not work with lowered zjs. I have the H&R lowering springs and with the WJ sway bar it's almost as if I didn't have one in at all. There's constant clunking over every bump. I can't throw the truck into turns like I used to be able to do with the stock sway bar. I'm sure with the lifted guys out there it is a super mod. But for the lowered guys, i recommend not doing this and just spending the money on aftermarket. Just my two cents.

  7. #82
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    well if its lowered, then your bar angles will be way off.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  8. #83
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    IIRC I think the WJ went to hollow bars in the later years.

  9. #84
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    Pics Have Been Restored And Updated. A Few People Have Been Asking About It.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ZJallday View Post
    I didn't read every post, just kinda skimmed thru. But I did this on my niner. My sway bar needed end links and I was hoping this would be a cheaper solution. But it does not work with lowered zjs. I have the H&R lowering springs and with the WJ sway bar it's almost as if I didn't have one in at all. There's constant clunking over every bump. I can't throw the truck into turns like I used to be able to do with the stock sway bar. I'm sure with the lifted guys out there it is a super mod. But for the lowered guys, i recommend not doing this and just spending the money on aftermarket. Just my two cents.
    Your angles would've been off on the stock one as well. However, if you are lowered, then you can easily cut the end links and either re-weld them at level bar height. OR you can get creative, you don't need to use stock end links. a piece of angle or a nice piece of DOM tubing and weld on another piece to the end for a bolt. OR you can get the $300 addco.


    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    well if its lowered, then your bar angles will be way off.
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 318 V8 my "go-fast grocery getter"
    2001 Yamaha Raptor 660 "awesome quad"
    2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 supercharged "moms go-fast car"
    1999 Saturn SL2 1.9 Dual Cam I4 "supercharged go-fast car"
    1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4 Dual Cam V6 "rare go-fast drag car"

  10. #85
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    Solving the hose problem:

    To solve the hose problem, I made this. It's a 2 inch ID hose from some other make joined to the regular Jeep return hose. You can see the autozone part number. I chose it because it had an S-bend in it and it was so thick, that being squished by the sway bar would not matter.
    20150801_114117.jpg
    From another angle:
    20150801_114138.jpg
    To allow the two inch hose to join to the 1 3/4 inch radiator outlet, put a small 1 3/4 inch ring inside:
    20150801_114226.jpg
    You get the ring by cutting the original return hose a bit --- join to the 2 inch hose with a exhaust adapter. A made little grooves on the exhaust adapter with my lathe:
    20150801_114258.jpg
    Here is what it looks like on the radiator:
    20150801_163522.jpg

  11. #86
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    Here is the final result:

    20150804_222146.jpg

  12. #87
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Hi guys, i'm not sure.this is the.right section, so tell me if i'm wrong.
    Question is: are there any difference between a 5.9's sway bar and a 98 5.2's sway bar? Or are the same?
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
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  13. #88
    RallyJeep GO
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    AFAIK, all ZJs used the same sway bars.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  14. #89
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    Why can't a block of aluminum be placed between the frame and the sway bar to space it out 1/2-3/4" or so? that is what I thought of doing just haven't gotten around to try it out yet.
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
    360 Stroker, 403 c.i.
    3" Skyjacker lift
    31" tires
    K&N Intake
    Edelbrock TES

  15. #90
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    AFAIK, all ZJs used the same sway bars.
    thanks, so it's not worth to swap the sways from a 5.9 to a 5.2
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  16. #91
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark 318 ita View Post
    thanks, so it's not worth to swap the sways from a 5.9 to a 5.2
    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    AFAIK, all ZJs used the same sway bars.
    Ditto on that. From anything I've seen they're the same.



    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    Why can't a block of aluminum be placed between the frame and the sway bar to space it out 1/2-3/4" or so? that is what I thought of doing just haven't gotten around to try it out yet.

    Seems like it would work well, although I'm thinking it might be good to shorten the links by that same amount?

    Probably best to keep the bushings in the end links close to their normal angles to reduce wear and tear on them? Then again, that much difference at the frame might not change the angle at the end links enough to matter.
    Last edited by Z88Z; 09-13-2015 at 05:14 AM.

  17. #92
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Probably best to keep the bushings in the end links close to their normal angles to reduce wear and tear on them? Then again, that much difference at the frame might not change the angle at the end links enough to matter.
    I'll just have to give it a try and report back. I have a WJ bar in the shed, just haven't worked on the ZJ in a long time.
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
    360 Stroker, 403 c.i.
    3" Skyjacker lift
    31" tires
    K&N Intake
    Edelbrock TES

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    Why can't a block of aluminum be placed between the frame and the sway bar to space it out 1/2-3/4" or so? that is what I thought of doing just haven't gotten around to try it out yet.

    The problem is that bolt holes are not parallel. The surface of the frame is also not flat at this point.

    This is a swap that works due to the fact that the "rubber-surround-thing" is thin metal that has some give in it, and some too-big bolt holes.

    I previously drew up this spacer below. I was about to get it Water-jet Cut when I realized it would not work.

    - - - Updated - - -

    wj-spacer-004.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -


    Now there is a solution. It's a more complex spacer that bolts first into the frame, and then the bar bolts onto that.

    Complex to make :-(
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  19. #94
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulsheer View Post
    The problem is that bolt holes are not parallel. The surface of the frame is also not flat at this point.- --

    Now there is a solution. It's a more complex spacer that bolts first into the frame, and then the bar bolts onto that.

    Complex to make :-(

    Good catch! Never noticed that.


    Seems like the harder part would be contouring it to the frame

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulsheer View Post
    Here is the final result:

    20150804_222146.jpg

    This has started a slow leak :-(

    I'm thinking of getting an Addco.

    Is the part "Addco 516"?

    I also notice that the WJ may be a bit toooo heavy. When your right wheel hits a small pump, the wheel doesn't yield -- instead the car tilts to the left!

    Why does the Addco 516 say Jeep GC 94/95 only?

    Surely all 93-98 had the same bolt holes and links?
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulsheer View Post
    This has started a slow leak :-(

    I'm thinking of getting an Addco.

    Is the part "Addco 516"?

    I also notice that the WJ may be a bit toooo heavy. When your right wheel hits a small pump, the wheel doesn't yield -- instead the car tilts to the left!

    Why does the Addco 516 say Jeep GC 94/95 only?

    Surely all 93-98 had the same bolt holes and links?
    Early vs late ZJs actually did have different sway bar links up front. The one for the later ZJs is the Addco 543.

    I'm pretty sure the Addco bar is actually stiffer than the WJ bar, so it will definitely cause some of that tilting effect from the suspension being stiffer on one-sided hits. I don't find it excessive in my ZJ, however.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  22. #97
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    The 543 and 516 kit use the same bar. The 543 comes with the end links to replace the goofy later stock end links. However, their replacement end link is an equally goofy setup using a piece of angle bracket to secure the end links to the axle. I used the earlier end links on my 97 ZJ with the 543 kit since the 543 kit was cheaper.

  23. #98
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    What Silver said ^^^ Those angle brackets are a joke, and creak terribly no matter how you tighten them. Get new stock end links for an early ZJ (pre 96?). Fits like a glove, and no creaking.

  24. #99
    RallyJeep GO
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    I fixed the end link problem with a set of JKS discos.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  25. #100
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Interesting that it says 94/95 only. 93 wasn't different was it?

    I assume that stuff changed in 96 but I don't know the middle year ZJs very well, only the 93 and 98s.

    When I updated my 93 to 98 specs that's one of the few things I left early style, since the late style ball always seems to pop out.



    Here's early vs late links. Early link on left, late link with it's ball and socket arrangement on the right.




    Here's end on the later ZJ bar. Note it's made to fit the stud with no play.

    I don't have a pic of the early bar end, but the hole is maybe 3 or 4 times bigger and tapered on the top and bottom to center and seat the rubber bushings.


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