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  1. #51
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    hmm...

    The info I posted is from my 2004 bar. I noticed on WJJeeps.com they list 52088281 as the part number for 99-03 and add "AB" to it for 2004. Found a parts manual that says the first is 31.5mm and the AB is 30mm. This does match what I measured on my bar since 1.181" = 30mm. I wonder if the earlier bar is also solid and also why did Jeep change it for 2004?

    Seems to be a mistake on WJJeeps though, as they list 52088284AD as the bushing for 02-04 and the parts manual says that is for the 31.5mm bar. WJJeeps is missing 52088284AE which the manual says is for the 30mm bar.

    Editing this a bit...

    Now that I came across multiple years of part manuals, 2004 book is only listing the 30mm bar and 2003 book is listing both of them. 2002 book shows only the 31.5mm bar. So could be that 03's could have either bar. Something to look for I guess...and find out if the earlier bar is solid or not.
    Last edited by Endless; 08-26-2011 at 12:25 PM.
    04 WJ 4.7ho Ltd
    98 ZJ 5.2 Ltd

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    That's awesome! I would assume the which stock bar is hollow like the zj?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep98ZJ View Post
    The control arm deal is old news but yes they are a lot better. Only thing im not sure of is the length? Are the OEM ZJ arms and the OEM WJ arms exactly the same length? I believe you can do the same swap on the rear lowers.. The swaybar trick is news to me. I may have to look into it. Any idea how thick it is? The 5.9 uses a thicker bar than your 95 so it may not be an upgrade for a 5.9
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep98ZJ View Post
    Ah thats right you have to cut the bushing sleve down so it fits into the XJ or ZJ mounts. Not a big deal. Whats so much better about them other than being boxed? What did you notice after you installed them?
    there used to be a "dead" spot in the center of my steering, these control arms alone eliminated that.. i dont know how, but it did. i guess there was that much play in the arms allowing the axle to travel from left to right, which prob indiactes bad trac bar bushings on either end.

    Quote Originally Posted by ptowntsi View Post
    i dont like the "lets paint things under the jeep any other color than black" look, but cool swap!
    i know, but i dont like my Jeep to be part of the crowd. when its clean, i get ppl just staring underneath asking me how i did it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep98ZJ View Post
    Yes we know lol. Other than the curve and being boxed, anything else? Ride better? Tighter?
    rides so much nicer, tighter "oh-shit-deer-turn-to-the-left-QUICK" response, too

    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    It's been stucked!
    awesome.

    Quote Originally Posted by enlight22 View Post
    We needvsomehow a definitive answer on weather the adco bar or wj bar is stiffer.
    Quote Originally Posted by enlight22 View Post
    ive long toyed with the idea of going to stock 93-95 endlinks with poly bushings installed in them... but id rather have wj style endlinks.. that on its own would be reason enough to go to the wj bar
    the stock 93-95 end links are in fact better than the 96+ links, my buddies 96 pops them out of the joints all the time. he has since switched to the 93-95 style. however, the direct link with bolts on the WJ is waaay better than both.

    Quote Originally Posted by Endless View Post
    hmm...

    The info I posted is from my 2004 bar. I noticed on WJJeeps.com they list 52088281 as the part number for 99-03 and add "AB" to it for 2004. Found a parts manual that says the first is 31.5mm and the AB is 30mm. This does match what I measured on my bar since 1.181" = 30mm. I wonder if the earlier bar is also solid and also why did Jeep change it for 2004?

    Seems to be a mistake on WJJeeps though, as they list 52088284AD as the bushing for 02-04 and the parts manual says that is for the 31.5mm bar. WJJeeps is missing 52088284AE which the manual says is for the 30mm bar.

    Editing this a bit...

    Now that I came across multiple years of part manuals, 2004 book is only listing the 30mm bar and 2003 book is listing both of them. 2002 book shows only the 31.5mm bar. So could be that 03's could have either bar. Something to look for I guess...and find out if the earlier bar is solid or not.
    i forgot to quote some ppl but, think of this, that addco setup is nice. direct swap, you prob dont have to mod anything, but think of the price and as stated its prob the same if not better and for only a few hours of time spent with your Jeep, and only a few dollars, its, in my opinion, well worth it over the addco. as i read thru, i saw that the 5.9s got diff sways than other ZJs. can someone post a pic of theirs? i have been tearing into ZJs for 7 years and didnt know they were different. sry i havent got back to you guys sooner, but i had an internet malfunction. they had to end up running a new cable line from the ute pole into the house.
    btw, the Jeep i got the sways and LCAs from was in the weeds, and mud everywhere. it was in fact a 99 Limited. those bolts turned out even without PB Blaster, and a reg 3/8 ratchet. i love the quality on the 2nd gen and up Grands. it was nice on the ZJs but if you compare the two (ZJ and WJ) there is no comparison sometimes. lol
    thanks for the sticky-ing this guys...
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 318 V8 my "go-fast grocery getter"
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    2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 supercharged "moms go-fast car"
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  3. #53
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    WJ

    you think it would be possible putting energy wj busings on along with the wj sway bar?



    probably not brackets are huge , looked to see if someone sells just poly bushings for wjs and didnt find anything but i didnt look to hard
    Last edited by Jon20683; 09-16-2011 at 06:33 AM.
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  4. #54
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    Im sure you can
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon20683 View Post
    you think it would be possible putting energy wj busings on along with the wj sway bar?



    probably not brackets are huge , looked to see if someone sells just poly bushings for wjs and didnt find anything but i didnt look to hard
    Probably easier to work with the ES bushings . . . I know on the ZJ's, they are a flat mount, which makes it much easier if you're going to run something like a steering box brace. I don't see why the ES brackets couldn't be trimmed the same as the stock ones.
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

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  6. #56
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    Could you post some swaybar and rad hose shots?

  7. #57
    Member WiCKeD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by enlight22 View Post
    Even with the standard addco front and rear I still find I understeer
    That's why you just do the rear.
    '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9er
    Southeast RT Blower Built 360 & CNC Ported 2.02 R/T Heads / COMP Cams Custom Cam / Crower Rockers / Edelbrock Headers / P&P Kegger / MSaine Valve Body / 247|249 Hybrid Transfer Case / Kolak Exhaust / Mopar Vulcanized Rubber Cupholder

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by WiCKeD View Post
    That's why you just do the rear.
    only use the rear addco bar? and the stock front bar? first im hearing of this suggestion.

  9. #59
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    Haven't had a chance to take a look under my XJ yet, but does anyone know if this will work there?
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

  10. #60
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    Enlight - That's correct. There's a reason I'm putting upcountry coils in the rear of the ZJ, and keeping the stock ones up front to make the Jeep less understeery (don't want a big swaybar in the rear, as then I'd need to build quick-discos).
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Enlight - That's correct. There's a reason I'm putting upcountry coils in the rear of the ZJ, and keeping the stock ones up front to make the Jeep less understeery (don't want a big swaybar in the rear, as then I'd need to build quick-discos).

    i love the stiffness it has now, but i hate understeer... got lowering coils on it now... i wonder whati would happen if i use stock no UC coils in the rear with the rear bar.. and stock front bar

  12. #62
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    You could get a lot of stifness if you were to cut the springs preferably uc springs but it have to be cut on a cold saw
    "20 year old "Masshole"







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  13. #63
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    ^ Yup. Cut coils are stiffer than they were at their original height. Stiffening the rear spring rate relative to the front will make it less understeer-prone.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  14. #64
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    That doesn't make sense at all.

    Sent from my MB860
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  15. #65
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    "20 year old "Masshole"







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  16. #66
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    You just posted a link that disproved your statement, lol.

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    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  17. #67
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    Cut coils are stiffer than pre cut coils is all I'm saying obviously not s much as a lowering coil but its stiffer none the less
    "20 year old "Masshole"







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  18. #68
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    why does it have to be cut on a cold saw?

  19. #69
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    Heat destroys coils like its butter so you need to either use a saw with cutting fluid which sounds to be quite difficult or use a cutting wheel/grinder
    "20 year old "Masshole"







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  20. #70
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    No, it really isn't stiffer.

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    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  21. #71
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
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    edit:/// actually looked at the link i put up since i didnt get a chance before and wow im an idiot. sorry should of read that oopsss
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  22. #72
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    Lol

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    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
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  23. #73
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    is that front mount safe the way it is notched out like that? Also, you should be able to find a standard energy bushing in the size that will fit the WJ bar so it won't be so damn big and it could mount in the spot so you don't have to notch that.

    like this http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens...7843132&sr=8-3

    now I want to get a WJ bar just to see if this would work and be better.
    Last edited by ptowntsi; 05-24-2012 at 12:06 AM.
    5.9 Magnum Powered ZJ Limited. The Pinnacle of Perfection.

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    My apologies for not having been on in a long time. Just some additional info and an update

    First, sway bar is great. My 32s rub it, but other than that, it's nice. I'm cutting down the end links soon to hopefully make the sway bar level instead of angled up.

    I know that with a stock sway bar, I wouldn't have been able to do this, mainly cause I tried it on a similar obstacle.
    http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/a46a9df9.jpg

    Bump stops are for sissies. Haha. I kid I kid.
    http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/b1206a3b.jpg

    Look how the front is still about the same on both sides. It rly didn't flex. Both the front and rear all have energy suspension bushing and end links all installed at the same time.
    http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...s/faece592.jpg


    And in the tech articles, it is stated that the front and rear lower control arms are he same. This isn't true.
    Top control arm is rear lower and the bottom control arm is the front lower.
    http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...icture0008.jpg
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 318 V8 my "go-fast grocery getter"
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    2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 supercharged "moms go-fast car"
    1999 Saturn SL2 1.9 Dual Cam I4 "supercharged go-fast car"
    1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4 Dual Cam V6 "rare go-fast drag car"

  25. #75
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    can you still run the factory front skid with this wj sway bar mod?

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