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Thread: Turbo....

  1. #51
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    if you look at these 2 pics. i think you could get a single for sure and smaller twins in there maybe. would it be tight, yes and i'm sure there might even be a little trimming here or there, but i think it would work.





    now just the pass side.



    now if you was to moved the fuse/relay box back to the firewall with the pcm. move the msd to inside under the dash. there is also plenty of room in the cowl i think also. the battery is already in the back. you have that whole area clear. you would have room for a pretty good size turbo there i think. if you could get the inlet to pull air from behind the headlight or grill it would work. i would think you could even go as far as a smaller width rad to have enough romm to pull air from the grill would be great. i dont know. maybe i am making more of the room than what is there.

    if you lost the a/c you would gain a good bit of room on the driver side and lose all the lines on the pass side. also swap over to manual breaks and remount the catch can and room for twins.
    Last edited by speedmontzj; 11-10-2012 at 10:14 AM.
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  2. #52
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    ...or do this.

    Don't need all that silly 'lectric stuff up there anyway, LOL


  3. #53
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    ah that looks like your light weight project? the way i want to do mine it would look about like that. a carb, manual breaks, and manual steering if its going to be 2wd with skinnies on the front. well mine would need a bigger piece of plastic because my intake would be about a foot taller than what you have sitting there.
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  4. #54
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Correct!

    Only thing in there will be coolant res and two smaller dia harnesses for lights and horns running just under the fender lip, one on each side. Motor harness will come up through one of the heat/ac holes in the firewall

    ABS will probably go away too but I'm undecided so it's staying for now.

    Everything else that was in the engine compartment is located to the rear. All elec components where the rear seat was, battery(batteries) and w/wash res and evap stuff further back. - just wanna point out that this project was started with the intent of having to pass emissions etc so all systems needed to be intact, or at least operable. By the time it's done now - it will be exempt so I could have planned it slightly differently. If you went carb on your there's even less to relocate.

    With all that stuff gone it leaves all kinds of room for interesting stuff.

    On the subject of lightweights I just want to say, you gotta keep one thing in mind:
    As cool and advanced as the factory lightweights were for their time - aluminum, fglass, acid dipped parts, and all the non-essential stuff removed, you gotta remember that those same cars were also adding up to a couple hundred pounds of ballast out back to offset the traction loss that came with the weight loss.
    Last edited by Z88Z; 11-11-2012 at 08:58 AM.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Correct!

    Only thing in there will be coolant res and two smaller dia harnesses for lights and horns running just under the fender lip, one on each side. Motor harness will come up through one of the heat/ac holes in the firewall

    ABS will probably go away too but I'm undecided so it's staying for now.


    chunk that shit. that is the first thing i do to a zj if it runs and drives when i buy it. to me, they stop so much better without it. now only thing different is up there you prolly have regular snow and ice. i have driven on that stuff less than 5 times in a zj and there was not a ton of it so i can't comment on that part of it.


    Everything else that was in the engine compartment is located to the rear. All elec components where the rear seat was, battery(batteries) and w/wash res and evap stuff further back. - just wanna point out that this project was started with the intent of having to pass emissions etc so all systems needed to be intact, or at least operable. By the time it's done now - it will be exempt so I could have planned it slightly differently. If you went carb on your there's even less to relocate.


    still undecided on a carb or not. will depend on which way i go motor wise, BUT if i have to relocate that stuff all the way to the back seat area, i will just relocate that shit right on to the trash can. down here in alabama, we southern folk only need some fuel, some spark, and some compression to make a motor run. we don't need that fancy, dancey emissions control stuff to help it out. we just hook a little ol'fuel line to that carb, put a spark plug in it, and if that sombitch is got some rings in it, she'll run. if she don't run, you just giver her a little shot of that crack for cars. if she won't hit on crack........well... she be fawked.


    With all that stuff gone it leaves all kinds of room for interesting stuff.

    On the subject of lightweights I just want to say, you gotta keep one thing in mind:
    As cool and advanced as the factory lightweights were for their time - aluminum, fglass, acid dipped parts, and all the non-essential stuff removed, you gotta remember that those same cars were also adding up to a couple hundred pounds of ballast out back to offset the traction loss that came with the weight loss.

    yes they did. most of those cars were tanks anyway. that was also the era of moving the frontend and rearend forward to transfer more weight to the rear tires.

    i started out thinking forced induction and thought that would be out of my wallet range becazuse i was thinking i had to build a motor and buy the fi i decided to go with. so i decided to go all n/a. that is my "true love" as far as horsepower goes and all i would have to do is build the motor. well to get the et's i want building with standard motor parts( stock block, std port location heads) is going to be iffy. i dont know if i can make the power i need, without it being a "max effort" stock parts build. i would hate to spend 10k building a motor and come up 50-75hp short. all the parts i bought would be wasted, because if i was doing an r block build, i would go a completely different direction with ciubic inches, heads, crank, etc. i can afford to build the motor, but i can't afford to build the motor and not be happy with the end result. the way i was looking at doing it would be walking a fine line between sucess and complete failure.

    so i am taking a step back at looking at all the options with fresh eyes to see where it takes me. on the topic of weight reduction and moving ballast i was thinking.... if i was to swap to a different brand motor that had seperate coils for wach cylinder there would be more room between the motor and firewall. since i would be building motor mounts anyway, i could always drop the motor an inch maybe and slide it back and inch maybe. would not know for sure till i actually had it sitting in the engine compartment thou. i could also buy one of those running with the full wiring harness that is tunable without ms2, 3, or an sct and get the clutch and flywheel with the trans i want bolted to the back of it for the same money or less, than what my stock block mopar stroker short block would cost.

    so just guestimating cost, which i likke to do because lets face it guys, the money is what decides the car you drive, the house you live in, the cloths you wear, and the piece of a$$ you get to sleep with. so going by that, i could have a used 50-60k miles ls2 with a t56 transmission running the stock computer tuned with hp tuners with a single turbo putting down 500+ hp to the tires ( with a good tune, not by me ) for whhat a mopar 408ci 700hp motor with intake and carb would cost. no headers , dizzy, ign, etc like that. now i know 500 to the tires will not be enough motor. but i wanted to get a cost figure in there first. now put a forged rotating assm in the ls2 asnd port the heads and you could turn the boost up to have enough power to be in the 9's with a t56 if you could keep it together. the same amout of money would get that 700hp motor in the jeep but by the time you added a ms3 and built the trans you would have a couple of grand more in it than the gm motor swap. i

    i was just thinking out loud guys. while i'mm doing that , everyone seems to think when you go turbo, you alwasy blow your first motor up. so if that is the case, a stock 5.2 magnum will get you tuning exp on a turbo mopar engine for cheap and hey, if you melt it down, your not out much money. i could alway pull my stock 318 out of my white jeep and throw it in the fast jeep with maybe 2 smaller master power turbo's and get the tunning figured out on the stock 318. i think 2 mp 60-1 series turbo's might be a tad big but would work i think by what i can figure out and they are about 750 each. so prolly looking at about 3500-4000 for the whole setup depending on what parts you use( bov, waste gate) to get 2 of those on a 318 in my fastjeep. just dont know if there would be anyway to get them both in there.

    i've been reading a lot on some mopar turbo stuff, but compressor maps still elude me.
    Last edited by speedmontzj; 11-11-2012 at 02:42 PM.
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