Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 56
  1. #26
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Chicopee, Ma
    Posts
    1,913
    Rep Power
    122

    Re: ZJ Common Problems and Solutions

    I cleaned the tabs on my mirros but it didn't do much and about the hatch all I did was find where the best part was where it opens and closes perefect and apoxied it never had an issuse since

    The sunroof still trying to figure out it works when it wants it works all the time but some times it won't want to raise up I stole a couple switches frpm the yard and tried 1 and nothing changed..

    Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
    "20 year old "Masshole"







    96 Limited5.2 MODIFICATIONS


  2. #27
    Im That Guy Jon20683's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Chicopee, Ma
    Posts
    1,913
    Rep Power
    122

    Re: ZJ Common Problems and Solutions

    Ohh and how about the heated seat module I had a bad 1 in my drivers seat for a little while and there only certain year specific

    Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
    "20 year old "Masshole"







    96 Limited5.2 MODIFICATIONS


  3. #28
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    7,358
    Rep Power
    2340
    replacing the CKP w/ an M1 intake isnt too bad
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  4. #29
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    7,358
    Rep Power
    2340
    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post

    Interior Lights flicker randomly. I have found that it occurs when I mess with my dimmer switch. The fix appears to be replacing the headlight switch.
    if you have a full overhead console, this can also happen if the rear reading light assembly breaks off. it can bounce up and cause a feedback into the interior lights.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  5. #30
    jkm0687
    Guest
    As far as the sticking hatch goes i have a 98 5.9 , and i ended up having to replace the latch for the rear hatch. The latch hook itself had a plastic coating around it that had started to break down and cause the latch to jam.

  6. #31
    Member vr777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    104
    Rep Power
    78
    add this - A/C drain clog up (and as a result water under passenger floor mat) because of stupid design

  7. #32
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    33
    Rep Power
    90
    in reference to post #31 checkout this link, i thought it was a pretty good pictorial of a reasonable fix

    http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/ac-d...pet-fix-24246/

  8. #33
    Member vr777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    104
    Rep Power
    78
    oh, so that's where that tube is lol
    thanks for posting

  9. #34
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    33
    Rep Power
    90
    yes, crazy design. the condensation water its supposed to run down your frame rail, lol. I googled the problem and there are also some other solutions, but I think this guy really got to the heart of the problem. I bet you could probably find a nicer looking "trap door" solution in home depot, such as a small utility door that could be installed, or something could be fabricated out of stainless steel, diamond plate or maybe a powder coated piece of metal with hinges, etc. The guy in the photo covered it with a piece of metal and some sheet metal screws, but I'm sure some of you fabricators can top that, maybe even come up with a kit to market, lol.

  10. #35
    Member vr777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    104
    Rep Power
    78
    i see chrysler has awesome engineers, instead of redesigning drain tube, they made 2 holes in floor, that's genius
    ‪Jeep wet carpet‬‏ - YouTube

  11. #36
    Chris Jeep98ZJ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Long Island NY
    Posts
    3,022
    Rep Power
    137
    Or you could drill a small hole in the plastic under the dash and just stick a piece of wire or coat hanger through it and clean out the tube. Much better than hacking up your frame rail. Old and well known problem/solution
    Platinum 5.9 167K when i bought her. 2.25" engine pipes 3" Magnaflow cat, 3" Hooker Aerochamber, 3" tail pipe, Ported kegger, 52MM Throttle Body, 24lb ford injectors, K&N drop in filter, Cast JEEP valve covers, MSD coil and wires, All new 6 piece clear light kit, 255/65/16 General Grabber HTS, 242 conversion, XJ u-joint front axle shafts

    96 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.2, picked up 12/3/13, 191K miles, edelbrock air cleaner, dual catback exhaust, headers, 50MM TB, 26,000 GVW tranny cooler, 4" lift, 35" General Grabber AT2 tires on Mickey Thompson Classic wheels.

  12. #37
    Member vr777's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    104
    Rep Power
    78
    yeah, i did that today. i didn't have water under passenger mat, but sooner or later it would happen

    oh yeah, also common on ZJs is broken seat heating... this happens because of broken wires (usually in drivers seat). Wires are hard and thin, so they are easy to brake. There are two solutions, first is to disassemble seat and wield broken wire(s) (this will work until wire will brake again in other place) or you can order special repair kit from Chrysler (part number is 5015478AA, one kit per seat)
    Last edited by vr777; 07-19-2011 at 12:47 PM.

  13. #38
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    46
    Rep Power
    84

    REAR HATCH or LATCH not Opening

    Fix For: Rear Hatch will not Open

    I just fixed mine. I had it intermittently over the year I've owned my 5.9r. Like many here, I found if I opened the latch with my palm facing up while pressing my thumb (some using knees) on the remaining black latch piece to the side - it opened so easy. Sometimes, not at all. Then nothing worked.

    I found a discussion online and repeated it. Here's what I did:

    1. The rear door was shut, but the locking mechanism is cycling locked/unlocked just fine - so it is the latch.

    2. Fortunately, I'd been working lights/wiring through my back panel so some screws were out/missing. Obviously, the prior owner had played this game also as other screws were missing. If your molding is screwed tight, you may be screwed.

    3. there are alternating screws and molding fasteners around the bottom, only screws on the side and fasteners only(?) on top below the window. You cannot access the sides/bottom when closed, so I know your query/problem and feel your pain.

    4. I pried free the fasteners across the top. This allowed my molding to flex about 3-4 inches away from the bottom of the window. I then exited the jeep and continued to work thru the opened window. I had to have my wife slide her thinner arm in between the molding and the metal door frame and behind the plastic/rubber sound proofing.

    5. below the locking device and cables which extend horizontally across the door for the lock, there will be an opening. At the lowest part of the door, the metal substructure protrudes out toward the interior of the jeep to cover the latching mechanism. There you can barely see past the locking device and frame a vertical bar of 1/4" diameter. Grab this bar and pull it up. this should unlatch the door.

    6. Now that it is open, wedge something in the latch jam so while you are removing the inside panel, the sorry door mechanisms don't let it close on you with your back turned.

    7. remove the screws, fastners and remove the inside panel and sound blanket. Now you can see the latching mechanism. there is a press pin on the left and the vertical bar on the right. the mechanism acts like a see-saw and with the amount of play in the infamous JEEP plastic parts, weakened retaining spring and fittings - it just becomes too sloppy to operate. yet, it explains why pressing the latch helps for a while.

    8. I pulled the bar from the clip fastener with a flat-head screw driver, slide it in the direction which improved the mechanical leverage (I can't remember if that was up or down) but it was only a 1/4-1/2 inch. Then squeezed the clip around it.

    9. Oil/LUB all the latch and lock parts while you have them exposed. there tends to be grease build-up. exercise the latch a bunch to work in the oil.

    10. work the latch now - Shazam!

    11. mine works so easy I'm afraid it's left open.

    12. put the inside molding back together and smile....

    Glad I could contribute something back to you mechanical wizards!

    CigarXO
    __________________
    '98 5.9r: K&N, MTDKolak Ign, JET Chip #2; Magflow CAT, Powerstick pipe(love it), Kolak 3" bend, Spiderex 1.25", JKS F/R trac bars & discos, OME Coil & Shocks; ARB, Warn 9000, Tomken rockers, Yakima rack, PIAA driving&fog, KC 2x floods, HiLift
    Last edited by CigarXO; 12-30-2011 at 11:16 AM.
    CigarXO
    Jeff C. Allen
    Tacoma, WA
    '98 JEEP 5.9r
    K&Nair KolakMTDIgn JETChip#2 MagflowCAT Powerstickpipe Kolak 3" XJHPd30w/4.56 ARBlocker Spiderex1.25spacers JKStracs&discos OMECoils&Shocks RubiconACAs ARBguard Warn9k Tomkenrockers Yakimarack PIAAdrvg&fog KC2xfloods HiLiftjack

    email: jeff.c.allen@comcast.net
    cell: 253-229-1713

  14. #39
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    490
    Rep Power
    56
    Just some things Ive learned. The little bulbs in the climate control blew in my 94 ZJ. Had trouble finding anything that actually said buy THIS bulb. Lots of people had things to recommend. The PC74 bulb is NOT, repeat, NOT what you need. Found that bulb mentioned everywhere.

    Order the Clear type C T5 bulbs from this place:

    http://www.superlumination.com/74.htm

    Two clear bulbs with shipping ran me $9 or so.




    Another issue. The EVIC always said brake light failure. Took it out and re-soldered every possible joint on that plug, no change. Finally figured out that the wrong bulbs had been put in for the 3rd brake light. Idk what bulbs were in it but 921's fixed the issue. Ive taken every bulb out and cleaned the sockets, put the bulbs back in with di-electric grease. Twice since replacing the bulbs Ive gotten a brake light failure that goes away once I restart the jeep (been a month since replacing the bulbs). Not sure why thats happening. Makes me happy to have that issue resolved.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  15. #40
    moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mazatlan, Mexico
    Posts
    3,258
    Rep Power
    217222
    Don't know how common this issue may be but here goes. About 8 months ago my hatch glass release switch ceased to function. I would push the button to open the glass and nothing. I tried fixing it to no avail. Took Ms.Plat to an auto electric shop. They took the switch mechanism out, cleaned the contacts, lubed all the moving parts and low and behold it worked again. Time lapse to today. I don't use the hatch window at all but about a week ago I pusher button to open the glass while the Jeep was locked. To my surprise the hatch window popped open. I lifted the glass and the alarm went off. I now have a car that's easy to break into if the thief doesn't care about the alarm going off. I want to fix this but short of finding another switch mechanism to replace my misbehaving one I don't know where to start the diagnosis.

  16. #41
    Member csouers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
    Posts
    769
    Rep Power
    89
    Are you talking about the push button or the limit switch? The limit switch looks at if the hatch latch is locked or unlocked to determine if the liftglass should be able to be opened. When it's locked, the limit switch makes an open circuit so that the voltage from the release button doesn't flow to the solenoid to pop the glass open.

    Seems like the limit switch is your issue, Tony. Maybe there is some kind of adjustment?

  17. #42
    moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mazatlan, Mexico
    Posts
    3,258
    Rep Power
    217222
    I'll be doing some heavy interior work and that panel panel will soon be removed so I'll check that out Chris.

  18. #43
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2284
    Tony, looked at about 10 jeeps today... only one I found with a rear glass that opened was a WJ. The push button looks an awful lot like hours. Wonder if they are the same. I know they are offset where ours are centered but they look very much alike.

  19. #44
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    near Boston
    Posts
    9,636
    Rep Power
    217378
    Quote Originally Posted by csouers View Post
    Are you talking about the push button or the limit switch? The limit switch looks at if the hatch latch is locked or unlocked to determine if the liftglass should be able to be opened. When it's locked, the limit switch makes an open circuit so that the voltage from the release button doesn't flow to the solenoid to pop the glass open.

    Seems like the limit switch is your issue, Tony. Maybe there is some kind of adjustment?
    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Tony, looked at about 10 jeeps today... only one I found with a rear glass that opened was a WJ. The push button looks an awful lot like hours. Wonder if they are the same. I know they are offset where ours are centered but they look very much alike.
    What Chris said Tony...

    The switch itself is fairly dumb. The problem if it's opening when it shouldn't is that it has voltage when it shouldn't - and that's controlled by the limit switch Chris mentioned.

    If you look at this pic the limit switch is the black blocky thing on the right of the latch as you look at it.

    The lock motor is the regular "throw" type solenoid that moves that whole slider the limit switch is on. You can't see the motor in this pic - it's behind the panel where that white connector is and you can see two of the bolts that hold it though.

    When you hit unlock, the motor throws the slider. That slider moves linkage etc that allows the handle to engage to open it from the outside, and further down on that same slider is where it works the switch so it's only a complete circuit after the lock motor has been operated.

    If you can hear the motor working, and it allows/doesn't allow the handle to open the hatch as the Jeep is unlocked/locked, then the lock motor is working correctly. If the switch opens the glass the switch itself is working correctly.

    That leaves the limit switch, as like Chris said it should only be putting voltage through it when the lock motor has throw that slider into the unlock position.

    It could be stuck so it's always closed, or the tab could have broken off, or possibly the electrician just jumped it to bypass it - in which case it would have voltage all the time like you describe



  20. #45
    moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mazatlan, Mexico
    Posts
    3,258
    Rep Power
    217222
    Thanks John. The mechanism does open the window by using the black outside button. Problem is that it doesn't lock when I press the button on the fob. I get kinda paranoid every time I park the Jeep away from home. I get back to Mazatlan on the 15th so I'll tear into it then to see if I can find the bad connection. Before the electrician fixed the problem I couldn't open the hatch window at all. I didn't realize I was better off then because at least the window was locked.

  21. #46
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    near Boston
    Posts
    9,636
    Rep Power
    217378
    Quote Originally Posted by MexiJeeper View Post
    Thanks John. The mechanism does open the window by using the black outside button. Problem is that it doesn't lock when I press the button on the fob. ....
    But the handle locks and unlocks with the fob, yes?

    If so that pretty much leaves the limit switch as the problem. You might find it's been jumped at that white connector in the bottom left of that pic, or the switch itself could be bad. Stuck, broken, whatever

  22. #47
    moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mazatlan, Mexico
    Posts
    3,258
    Rep Power
    217222
    The hatch glass does not lock with the fob. It doesn't lock at all.

  23. #48
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    near Boston
    Posts
    9,636
    Rep Power
    217378
    Quote Originally Posted by MexiJeeper View Post
    The hatch glass does not lock with the fob. It doesn't lock at all.
    The handle. I said "the handle"

    gonna have to keep you away from the 'buttons' and the tequila Tony!

  24. #49
    moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Mazatlan, Mexico
    Posts
    3,258
    Rep Power
    217222
    Oh that handle.... Yes it locks and unlocks properly with the fob.

  25. #50
    Member csouers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
    Posts
    769
    Rep Power
    89
    Lol at the Tequila comment.

Similar Threads

  1. "At home" cleaning solutions for that nasty corrosion on our cast aluminum stuff?
    By Z88Z in forum Exterior/Interior Modifications and Detailing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-16-2012, 06:26 AM
  2. Asd problems
    By mpoirier in forum Tech Questions
    Replies: 41
    Last Post: 06-04-2011, 07:39 PM
  3. 5.9 problems
    By GLHSHELBY in forum Tech Questions
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 04-20-2011, 01:17 PM
  4. 5.9 Headliner Leak Above Passenger Door -- Solutions?
    By Bandana Boyz in forum Tech Questions
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-18-2010, 09:34 AM
  5. RPM problems
    By BFC 5.9 in forum Tech Questions
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 05-17-2010, 08:45 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •