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  1. #1
    Figmentation SLPRJP's Avatar
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    ZJ Common Problems and Solutions

    Perhaps the Mods could make this a sticky.

    I know there are a lot of threads in this section pertaining to electrical issues. However it would be great if we could have one that would be a good reference to common ZJ problems and their solutions. Perhaps even where to get hard to find parts. I will start...

    Interior Lights flicker randomly. I have found that it occurs when I mess with my dimmer switch. The fix appears to be replacing the headlight switch.

    Right turn signal Blinks rapidly. It is intermittent and when it does that, it also gets stuck on. Also noted that whenever it does that the front right blinker is not flashing. I have heard that it is ground related, it may also be related to the right side turn signal harness.

    My solution ended up being loose contacts in the actual light socket. A new set of blinker bulbs, some dielectric grease, and bending the contacts back into the right spot has solved this problem.

    Left Power Mirror moves on it own. Solution is supposed to be, either unhooking the memory button panel, or pulling the mirror apart and cleaning the contacts. I have not verified it yet.

    "Coolant Temp Sensor Bad". As far as what I can get out of the local Jeep store, that sensor it is talking about on the info screen is the sensor that controls the fan. So far I can do nothing about it because no auto parts supplier, including jeep can get that sensor. Availability anyone?

    Per BrianShaughnessy his solution is:
    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaughnessy View Post
    I just had my VIC out and resoldered the connector as pictured in this thread... Cooland sensor bad problem fixed. http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?t=1924




    Fan motor burnt up. No auto parts supplier carries the fan motor and neither does the local jeep dealer. However the local Jeep place does want $700 bucks for a fan assembly. My current solution is using an aftermarket fan and fan harness, However it is not pulling enough CFM in my opinion. I was turned to this thread and will be doing it in shortness. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=436320

    Cruise Control doesn't work. All my fuses are good so I have no idea what it is, anyone else have the same issue?

    Per tddpop his tip is:

    Quote Originally Posted by tddpop View Post
    You likely have a vacuum leak. Trace the vacuum line from the cruise control in the engine bay and look for broken/disconnected lines and connections. Start at the cruise control module on the passenger side of the engine bay, and work back. It's vacuum line will go to a T-connection along side the fender, that t-connection goes forward to the vacuum storage box for the cruise under the battery tray, and back around the coolant overflow tank to another t-connection next to the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine. Trace all the lines and connections that t-off the line that feeds the cruise as well until you get to the intake manifold. Also check all the vacuum nipples on the intake manifold to make sure they aren't leaking. A couple are not used from the factory and have rubber caps on them that become brittle and break over time. Check all the hard lines, t-connectors and vacuum nipples for cracks and check the soft lines as well. Check the vacuum storage box under the battery and make sure it isn't cracked/broken either.

    My cruise has stopped working a few times, and it has always been because a vacuum connection has come disconnected somewhere. Usually the first t-connection next to the fender directly off the cruise module, or the t-connection on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it is because I dis-lodged them working in the engine bay and sometimes they have just come loose on their own.
    My solution for the problem ended up being a dirty contact in the steering wheel. I pulled apart the cruise control button on the steering wheel and cleaned it up, now it is working like a charm!



    I'm sure that the rest of you guys have some problems and solutions. I will try to update this first post so that everyone may have a nice little area to go to for these issues and their solutions.

    Please correct any of my solutions I have posted if I am wrong!
    Last edited by SLPRJP; 06-07-2010 at 08:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Resident Tooth Fairy BrianShaughnessy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post
    Perhaps the Mods could make this a sticky.

    "Coolant Temp Sensor Bad". As far as what I can get out of the local Jeep store, that sensor it is talking about on the info screen is the sensor that controls the fan. So far I can do nothing about it because no auto parts supplier, including jeep can get that sensor. Availability anyone?

    Please correct any of my solutions I have posted if I am wrong!


    I just had my VIC out and resoldered the connector as pictured in this thread... Cooland sensor bad problem fixed. http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?t=1924
    98 GC 5.9 Limited: FiddyNine. Latest money pit!
    69 Charger R/T: Black Betty. Greatest money pit!
    69 Charger R/T: Sinnamon. RocknRoll High School.
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  3. #3
    Figmentation SLPRJP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianShaughnessy View Post
    I just had my VIC out and resoldered the connector as pictured in this thread... Cooland sensor bad problem fixed. http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?t=1924
    Thanks for the tips, I updated the original post. I guess I need to grab the ol' tester and start in on my jeep next.
    Fixing Jeep problems one paycheck at a time!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post
    Cruise Control doesn't work. All my fuses are good so I have no idea what it is, anyone else have the same issue?
    You likely have a vacuum leak. Trace the vacuum line from the cruise control in the engine bay and look for broken/disconnected lines and connections. Start at the cruise control module on the passenger side of the engine bay, and work back. It's vacuum line will go to a T-connection along side the fender, that t-connection goes forward to the vacuum storage box for the cruise under the battery tray, and back around the coolant overflow tank to another t-connection next to the firewall just to the passenger side of the engine. Trace all the lines and connections that t-off the line that feeds the cruise as well until you get to the intake manifold. Also check all the vacuum nipples on the intake manifold to make sure they aren't leaking. A couple are not used from the factory and have rubber caps on them that become brittle and break over time. Check all the hard lines, t-connectors and vacuum nipples for cracks and check the soft lines as well. Check the vacuum storage box under the battery and make sure it isn't cracked/broken either.

    My cruise has stopped working a few times, and it has always been because a vacuum connection has come disconnected somewhere. Usually the first t-connection next to the fender directly off the cruise module, or the t-connection on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it is because I dis-lodged them working in the engine bay and sometimes they have just come loose on their own.

  5. #5
    Figmentation SLPRJP's Avatar
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    ^^^ Thanks for the tip, on my 91 cherokee it was a vacuum leak that caused my climate control not to work, I forgot how reliant most jeeps are on their vacuum system. I updated the initial post.

    If anyone else has a problem that they want added to the list post it up. Let's make a Grand Cherokee problem dictionary so everyone can get their gremlins worked out!!
    Fixing Jeep problems one paycheck at a time!

  6. #6
    Member Paranign's Avatar
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    Sunroof won't open or close intermittently:

    likely bad solder joints in the sunroof controller, located under the headliner.
    94 ZJ Limited - 5.9, Edelbrock headers w/full 2.5" Flowmaster exhaust, Comp torque cam, EQ 1.92 heads, 3.5" lift, Bilstein, OME HD coils, Truetracs F/R, 31" Cooper STT, Galaxy CB, JKS Supernerfs, Mopar efan w/DC Controls box, 242 TC, built trans, 4.10

    95 ZJ Limited - 5.9, 2.5" Flowmaster exhaust, UC, 242 TC, Taurus efan, MX6, mostly stock

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    RallyJeep GO
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    Ah. That explains why my sunroof always opens, closes 99% of the time, but won't always want to pop up (but always closes when it is).
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

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    This is a commonly known one, but I had no clue about it when I bought my first ZJ.

    Problem: Hatch won't open when it's unlocked.

    Solution: Smack panel to the right of the latch while trying to pull it open. Should knock the linkage enough to allow the hatch to open.
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

  9. #9
    Figmentation SLPRJP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paranign View Post
    Sunroof won't open or close intermittently:

    likely bad solder joints in the sunroof controller, located under the headliner.
    So is the fix some fresh solder?


    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    This is a commonly known one, but I had no clue about it when I bought my first ZJ.

    Problem: Hatch won't open when it's unlocked.

    Solution: Smack panel to the right of the latch while trying to pull it open. Should knock the linkage enough to allow the hatch to open.
    Is there a permanent solution to this?
    Fixing Jeep problems one paycheck at a time!

  10. #10
    Member Paranign's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post
    So is the fix some fresh solder?
    Likely, if the problem is with straight opening and closing. Problems with the sunroof going up and down could be broken plastic pieces.
    94 ZJ Limited - 5.9, Edelbrock headers w/full 2.5" Flowmaster exhaust, Comp torque cam, EQ 1.92 heads, 3.5" lift, Bilstein, OME HD coils, Truetracs F/R, 31" Cooper STT, Galaxy CB, JKS Supernerfs, Mopar efan w/DC Controls box, 242 TC, built trans, 4.10

    95 ZJ Limited - 5.9, 2.5" Flowmaster exhaust, UC, 242 TC, Taurus efan, MX6, mostly stock

  11. #11
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post

    Left Power Mirror moves on it own. Solution is supposed to be, either unhooking the memory button panel, or pulling the mirror apart and cleaning the contacts. I have not verified it yet.

    "Coolant Temp Sensor Bad". As far as what I can get out of the local Jeep store, that sensor it is talking about on the info screen is the sensor that controls the fan...

    Quote Originally Posted by Paranign View Post
    Sunroof won't open or close intermittently:

    likely bad solder joints in the sunroof controller, located under the headliner.

    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Problem: Hatch won't open when it's unlocked.

    Solution: Smack panel to the right of the latch while trying to pull it open. Should knock the linkage enough to allow the hatch to open.
    Quote Originally Posted by SLPRJP View Post
    ...Is there a permanent solution to this?

    I'll just add a few comments to this,

    MIRRORS:
    If it's only the mirror you can do the contacts. There's an excellent writeup in the archives titled "Memory Mirror Fix" that I "borrowed" from Dave St Louis, a Jeep tech. Disconnecting the mem switches is probably an easier short term fix though.
    There's also a different level of memory problem where it just doesn't hold your "new" settings for the seats and both mirrors and everytime you use the fob it resorts to whatever settings were in there before.
    I haven't figured out if that's in the memory switch or the BCM but if you're the only driver then discoing the switches is a good cure, unless you're a stickler for 100% functionality.

    COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR:
    Shame on the Jeep store for telling you that. That message, commonly misinterpreted as anything from fan sensors to the CTS - is actually referring to the coolant LEVEL sensor in the overflow bottle - and yes, while that should be checked, more often than not it's the connector in the VIC so proceed per Brian's writeup.

    SUNROOF:
    Besides the many electrical issues with boards and position switches etc, Another problem with these is separation of the welds on the brackets that hold the cables. I guess it throws off the adjustment and it won't work correctly.
    I'm not 100% sure what people have done for this - I believe it can be re-welded but if you don't have access to welding possibly it could be riveted or some type of "joiner" bracket could be fabbed in?
    Of course Jeep's solution is to buy a whole new billion dollar sunroof assembly LOL

    STICKY HATCH:
    Usually once you get it open you can adjust it a bit. The problem is the threaded section of the rod down to the latch just sits in a clip, it's not threaded in, so when it meets stiff resistance from a sticky mechanism or whatever it follows the path of least resistance, which is to pull through the clip, throwing off the adjustment.
    So when you get it open. lube the heck out of the lower assembly and work it open and closed a bunch of times til it frees up, then adjust that rod.
    The latch assembly can get pretty nasty over the years, like to the point of seizing up If it's that bad you might want to grab a better assembly from a boneyard

  12. #12
    Figmentation SLPRJP's Avatar
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    ^^^^ Thanks for all the info!
    Fixing Jeep problems one paycheck at a time!

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    Common Problems

    I did the electric fan, dealer only item and they had to order it from a dealer in California (I'm in NY), it actually took about two weeks becasue they were on back order and the computer showed three requests and only two in the dealer country system at the time. I was able to get it for around $550 because a friend who owns a shop ordered it for me with his discount, otherwise I do believe its around $600 or above. I have read about a solution using a Ford Taurus fan and they talk about an easy way to wire it but I didn't want to start splicing wires into the harness. It only takes about 10 minutes to change the fan once you have the correct factory one. The only other wierd problem I had was when one of the bulbs from the front parking lights went out. The auto parts store kept giving me the wrong bulb, finally I went to the dealer and believe it or not this simple little amber light bulb is suppossed to be unique only to the 98 5.9, the Mopar part # for anyone that needs one is #154862AA, it's a good idea to write it down and put it in your owners manual or glove box. I ended up buying the rest of the ones he had in stock (only 3). I also just changed the rear yoke and it had to be ordered from a dealer in Wisconsin.

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    ZJ

    For the folks that have issues with the headlamp switch, it is a very easy repair. On the inside of the switch there are 10 solder joints that were broken on my 98. Took longer for the iron to heat up than it did to actually fix the broken solder joints. Saved myself about a Benny.

  15. #15
    Member WiCKeD's Avatar
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    TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - erratic idle engine surges. On mine, idle randomly surged to 2000RPM and stuck at this speed until engine was shut down. Located on right side of throttle body, unscrew two torx bolts and replace with new one.
    CKS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) - engine no start or intermittent stalling. May throw code P1391 or P034X. On the V8, the sensor is located behind the passenger head and connects near the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe. Need a 1/4" socket wrench with a 3" extension, bit holder and 1/4" allen bit. Here is a good writeup.
    Last edited by WiCKeD; 06-27-2010 at 12:29 PM.
    '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9er
    Southeast RT Blower Built 360 & CNC Ported 2.02 R/T Heads / COMP Cams Custom Cam / Crower Rockers / Edelbrock Headers / P&P Kegger / MSaine Valve Body / 247|249 Hybrid Transfer Case / Kolak Exhaust / Mopar Vulcanized Rubber Cupholder

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    Quote Originally Posted by WiCKeD View Post
    TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - erratic idle engine surges. On mine, idle randomly surged to 2000RPM and stuck at this speed until engine was shut down. Located on right side of throttle body, unscrew two torx bolts and replace with new one.
    CKS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) - engine no start or intermittent stalling. May throw code P1391 or P034X. On the V8, the sensor is located behind the passenger head and connects near the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe. Need a 1/4" socket wrench with a 3" extension, bit holder and 1/4" allen bit. Here is a good writeup.
    I have had to do both of these as well. The CPS is a pretty common failure. Use a quality replacement (NAPA or Mopar). I had a AutoZone one that lasted a week (I normally steer clear of anywhere but NAPA/Mopar if possible, I was in a pinch and no one else close had it in stock at 9:00 at night) it was replaced with a NAPA unit that has been good for 4 years now. It's a PITA to replace, especially if you have big hands. It was easier the second time I did it. The TPS on the other hand takes about 2 minutes to replace.
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited.

    Vortech V2-SQ-12 PSI, Crane HI-6R ignition, Taylor 8.2 Wires, 42 lb/hr flow matched Bosch injectors, Walbro pump, Hemifever SCT Tuned, 3" exhaust from y-pipe back w/Thunderbolt metallic cat and Dynomax UltraFlow muffler.

    Bone stock motor from TB to Pan

    310 WHP, 337 WTQ on a AWD Dynojet Dyno

  17. #17
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tddpop View Post
    ... The CPS is a pretty common failure. Use a quality replacement (NAPA or Mopar)....
    Hate to be "that guy" but...

    I know you mean the crank sensor but if you wanna get all technical - and we do LOL - CPS is the cam sensor in the distrib, CKPS is the crank sensor.

    There - I was "that guy" for a brief moment in time

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Hate to be "that guy" but...

    I know you mean the crank sensor but if you wanna get all technical - and we do LOL - CPS is the cam sensor in the distrib, CKPS is the crank sensor.

    There - I was "that guy" for a brief moment in time
    Yah but you still knew what I meant.
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited.

    Vortech V2-SQ-12 PSI, Crane HI-6R ignition, Taylor 8.2 Wires, 42 lb/hr flow matched Bosch injectors, Walbro pump, Hemifever SCT Tuned, 3" exhaust from y-pipe back w/Thunderbolt metallic cat and Dynomax UltraFlow muffler.

    Bone stock motor from TB to Pan

    310 WHP, 337 WTQ on a AWD Dynojet Dyno

  19. #19
    Member NW-XJ-SCOTT's Avatar
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    ahh the CKPS.. that booger turned me into a raging alcoholic
    Coming soon.. 35s

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by completely stock 5.9 View Post
    I did the electric fan, dealer only item and they had to order it from a dealer in California (I'm in NY), it actually took about two weeks becasue they were on back order and the computer showed three requests and only two in the dealer country system at the time. I was able to get it for around $550 because a friend who owns a shop ordered it for me with his discount, otherwise I do believe its around $600 or above. I have read about a solution using a Ford Taurus fan and they talk about an easy way to wire it but I didn't want to start splicing wires into the harness. It only takes about 10 minutes to change the fan once you have the correct factory one. The only other wierd problem I had was when one of the bulbs from the front parking lights went out. The auto parts store kept giving me the wrong bulb, finally I went to the dealer and believe it or not this simple little amber light bulb is suppossed to be unique only to the 98 5.9, the Mopar part # for anyone that needs one is #154862AA, it's a good idea to write it down and put it in your owners manual or glove box. I ended up buying the rest of the ones he had in stock (only 3). I also just changed the rear yoke and it had to be ordered from a dealer in Wisconsin.
    I didn`t want to splice either but with the ford harness it looks great and if it ever fails again and your in a pinch the autozone one is everywhere and only $106 and flows better. The harness only cost me $14. This whole process took about 10-15 minutes.
    Greenville,SC
    08 black charger r/t with R&T package(most r/t`s don`t have this)
    10 black mopar 10 Speedfactory challenger,1of1,544hp
    89 black dodge daytona shelby[400hp]
    98 black (deep slate) jeep 5.9

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    VIC soldering resolved my 'coolant sensor bad issue'

    Per $Subject,

    Pulled out the vic, did the re-solder on back of the connector, and 'bad coolant sensor' problem is now gone.

  22. #22
    Chris Jeep98ZJ's Avatar
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    Had this issue for about 6 months. Every time i hit a bump my idle would jump up a few hundred RPM then come back down. A lot of the time when i let off the gas it would do the same. It was the converter kicking in and out of lockup. Turned out to be a bad TPS even though it never triggered the CEL.
    Platinum 5.9 167K when i bought her. 2.25" engine pipes 3" Magnaflow cat, 3" Hooker Aerochamber, 3" tail pipe, Ported kegger, 52MM Throttle Body, 24lb ford injectors, K&N drop in filter, Cast JEEP valve covers, MSD coil and wires, All new 6 piece clear light kit, 255/65/16 General Grabber HTS, 242 conversion, XJ u-joint front axle shafts

    96 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.2, picked up 12/3/13, 191K miles, edelbrock air cleaner, dual catback exhaust, headers, 50MM TB, 26,000 GVW tranny cooler, 4" lift, 35" General Grabber AT2 tires on Mickey Thompson Classic wheels.

  23. #23
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep98ZJ View Post
    ... Turned out to be a bad TPS even though it never triggered the CEL.
    ditto on that. I had a bad TPS that was causing all kinds of idle/rpm skips and jumps and TC lockup problems and it never lit up the CEL.

    Seems like most of what goes wrong with our ZJs isn't covered by CELs even when it's a component like the TPS that's capable of showing a CEL

  24. #24
    RallyJeep GO
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    That's because the stupid TPS issues we all seem to get aren't it doing something out of range or obviously wrong, it's just a bit off from where it should be, but the computer doesn't know it's incorrect.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  25. #25
    Chris Jeep98ZJ's Avatar
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    Yup it's not doing anything that it shouldnt do it's just doing it at the wrong time.
    Platinum 5.9 167K when i bought her. 2.25" engine pipes 3" Magnaflow cat, 3" Hooker Aerochamber, 3" tail pipe, Ported kegger, 52MM Throttle Body, 24lb ford injectors, K&N drop in filter, Cast JEEP valve covers, MSD coil and wires, All new 6 piece clear light kit, 255/65/16 General Grabber HTS, 242 conversion, XJ u-joint front axle shafts

    96 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.2, picked up 12/3/13, 191K miles, edelbrock air cleaner, dual catback exhaust, headers, 50MM TB, 26,000 GVW tranny cooler, 4" lift, 35" General Grabber AT2 tires on Mickey Thompson Classic wheels.

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