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  1. #351
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    I have a 195 thermostat installed. Those last couple degrees are a struggle, but it gets there.

  2. #352
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Ok, I think I found something. If you have been checking out your plugs under the hood, you may have noticed that the ones for your coolant temp/fan switches looks familiar. Fact is there are several that have the wiring harness side but I have not found any that has the switch side. One of the components that matches the harness plug is the beloved coolant level sensor seen below.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I will put some photos on soon. Fighting with computer

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here is our beloved coolant sensor nestled in its place

    Now our lovely little pesky switch and harness plug


    Here they are compared


    I finally banged my head enough for the light to come on to say what the hell and get out the dremmel



    Looky what I found after cutting loose the thin wires that are part of the float sensor. I used soldering iron to remove them and I think I might have found a suitable plug to hook up the becool, dickman, extech switches for a little neater connection.


  3. #353
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    So just to clarify Rob, these are the correct switches that you are using and everything seems to be running good now. Fan cutting off and such at the correct temperatures. http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

    - - - Updated - - -

    Other then Fieros, what cars are these switches used on. I will be pigtail hunting soon.

  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    So just to clarify Rob, these are the correct switches that you are using and everything seems to be running good now. Fan cutting off and such at the correct temperatures. http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

    - - - Updated - - -

    Other then Fieros, what cars are these switches used on. I will be pigtail hunting soon.
    Correct! With these switches in both locations, my low speed turns on at 207, and off at 194. High speed is on at 216, and runs for just a few seconds before turning off at 214 or 212, but will have pulled enough heat out of the radiator that the temperature reaching the PCM temp sensor continues to drop all the way to 203 before it starts coming back up. (To clarify, this system is with a new e-fan motor (VDO #9069), and with a SILLA two-core fully-welded all-aluminum radiator. Also running a FlowKooler water pump, and a 195 degree Stewart/EMP thermostat.)

    I have no idea what the story is behind these switches. In reading through some of the Rodney Dickman website, I got the impression that he custom ordered a series of them from a foreign country, but the quality control was pathetic and the actual temperature ranges were inconsistent. These are sold as the "discount" switches on the website. The link you posted above is where he says these were sourced from the same supplier that Echlin uses. Therefore, I can only assume he special-ordered the "good" switches as well.

  5. #355
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Thanks to John. The mate has been found.IMG_5947.jpgIMG_5948.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=575

  6. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Thanks to John. The mate has been found.IMG_5947.jpgIMG_5948.jpg

    - - - Updated - - -

    http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=575
    The recent thread prompted me to order a set of these. Additional pics:




  7. #357
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    How are things going? Saw where you are doing some TC work. Glad to see you back on here and FB.

  8. #358
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    I never went anywhere! Just got tired of the non-5.9L postings and repetitive questions on the FB groups.

    The transfer case has been a PIA! I haven't had a chance to get back to it for the last couple days, and now I'm paranoid about the front pinion.

    What I REALLY want to do is take the top of my CJ-8 and drive it since the weather has been phenomenal lately, but I'm still waiting on steering components to come in.

  9. #359
    Tadhg
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    Reading through all of this thread, I'm happy to find that somebody's found a solution to the 5.9 fan switch scarcity. I have a question about the final combined result, though:

    Is the best connection method for the BeCool/Dickman switch still made by using ring terminals, or is there another part that's been added in the line? I see that the 150.2 Delphi connectors plug straight into the existing 5.9 harness, and that's awesome. But from the Delphi connector to the BeCool/Dickman switch I'm a little unclear about, especially as a grey plug has shown up in some of the photos above. Could anybody clarify this a bit more for me (and for future searchers?)

  10. #360
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    The Rodney Dickman switch requires the gray pigtail. The BeCool switch uses a ring terminal. Pick your poison, and adjust accordingly.

    As for the ground (with either switch), you can either do the really large ring terminal and screw the switch through it, or add some kind of terminal on the outside of the T, or get the aluminum T which has a location for the ground.

  11. #361
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    Hi guys,
    as usual i need you help, i was wondering...how many cfm puts out a 5.9's fan? and how many cfm puts out a stock fan from a 5.2?
    thanks, hope this is the right thread
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  12. #362
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    Based on testing from the similar Mark VIII and Taurus e-fans, the 5.9 fan should pull ~3000 cfm on low and 4000 - 4500 on high, I think. I doubt anyone's tried to measure the stock 5.2 clutch fan setup, but at higher rpm (2000+), it can definitely move more air than the 5.9 e-fan. The e-fan will probably out-pull the clutch fan at idle though.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  13. #363
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    10.4 thanks
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  14. #364
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Okay, I figure this is the best place to put this info. I found the cooling fan motor pigtail and the cooling system harness plugs. I am posting links for them here.

    Here is the fan pigtail connector http://elcodis.com/parts/2023867/54200413.html

    Here is the harness side connector http://elcodis.com/parts/2023842/542...html#datasheet

    I am also including photos in case the link goes bad.

    Delphi female connector harness side.JPGDelphi male connector fan pigtail side.JPG

  15. #365
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    you know... nason (http://www.nasonptc.com/) will make you any temperature or pressure switch you want with any connector on it.

  16. #366
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    Recent testing by Candymancane (assuming the same screen name he uses here, but his thread is on JF) warrants an update:

    He picked up the BWD TFS4 (interchange with Wells SW505) and found that it turns on at 214 and off at 203. He then went to the BWD TFS8 (interchange for Wells SW555) and found on at 212, off at 196. Making me believe that the SW555 I tested was a dud.

  17. #367
    RallyJeep GO
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    The TFS4 would be better. With a 195* stat, a 196* turn-off temp will leave the fan stuck-on once it turns on unless you're in very cold weather.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  18. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    The TFS4 would be better. With a 195* stat, a 196* turn-off temp will leave the fan stuck-on once it turns on unless you're in very cold weather.
    Not true. Based on my testing, the fan and radiator combination actually has enough capacity to pull it down to 190, at least in moderate weather of mid-50s (e.g. the BeCool switch), without much difficulty. I never tested the BeCool at 70 degree or higher temperatures though.

  19. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    Not true. Based on my testing, the fan and radiator combination actually has enough capacity to pull it down to 190, at least in moderate weather of mid-50s (e.g. the BeCool switch), without much difficulty. I never tested the BeCool at 70 degree or higher temperatures though.
    I've seen mine get down to about 192*, but it won't get there in hot weather with the A/C on or if it's under a significant engine load. And even in cool weather, pulling the temp down that low takes a while, which leads to very long fan cycle times (more wear on the fan motor for no real benefit).

    With the aftermarket controller I'm using for my fan, I have it set for on at 215*, off at 210* (kicks on just at the high side of the 210* mark on the gauge, just a hair later than the stock switches did). High speed is set for on at 220*, off at 215*, IIRC. That keeps it from getting above the upper end of the thermostat range for the most part (195* stat is fully open around 210 - 215*) and keeps the fan cycles fairly short (and doesn't run the fan unless it's actually needed or running for A/C demand). Sitting at a traffic light for a minute in cool weather won't kick it on, as the temp will come up a little, but not enough to trigger then fan and then drops again once I'm moving.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  20. #370
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    Minor update: I experimented with a BWD TFS8 fan switch. It worked great for about 6 months, then it died, along with my low-speed relay, and either the high-speed relay or the ignition relay. Either way, I had two incidents where the engine overheated. I went back to the Rodney Dickman that I'd taken out (still works great) for the low-speed position, and spent the money to buy three relays at NAPA, one each for the primary relays (ECH AR608), and one for the ignition (ECH AR635). The AR608 is pictured below next to an OEM relay:






    What immediately struck me about the AR608 is that it didn't match the photo from the NAPA websight. The pics showed essentially an identical relay: same size plastic housing, same molded wiring diagram in the side panel, and the same copper connectors, as OEM. But what came in the box was obviously smaller. Still rated for 40 amps though. I replaced both the high and low speed relays with the AR608 relays, and tested them for functionality. It's been a month and everything is still working great!


    I couldn't find the ignition relay packaged separately from the other random relay and bracket that comes with it in the AR635. I simply used a thin screwdriver to release the relay from its NAPA bracket and companion, and swapped it with a bracket from the dead low-speed relay I was throwing away. It was less than $30 for the AR635, so I didn't feel bad about tossing the bracket and companion relay.

    I also made the upper pigtail using the Corsa plug:

  21. #371
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    I see the Steiger adapter in post 297.

    Found a couple more on Summit. You guys that were working on this solution probably saw these already but I'll post 'em anyway, just because

    These four are 1.5" but only the AutoMeter and Be Cool have 3/8 fittings. Advance Adapters has a 1/2 fitting but if you could find a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that might work.
    Flex-a-lite piece has 1/4" fittings which would probably be harder to adapt.
    Interesting that it has two fittings though. Might be good for running an electric water pump temp switch or temp gauge.

    https://www.summitracing.com/search/...s?N=4294924111


    There's also this Mishimoto at 38mm which converts to 1.5" but the fittings are 1/8" so probably hard to adapt.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...8-bk/overview/



    Lots of fan switches too, but I don't see any option to narrow them down by fitting size and there's 77 of them so - good hunting! lol

    https://www.summitracing.com/search?...s&N=4294924109

  22. #372
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    I noticed the other day that a dodge nitro at work has an electric fan with relays. Seems to be setup similar to the 5.9 with the relays mounted on the fender. The part number is 04692076ab, curious what its rated at. It doesnt say on the relay.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


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