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  1. #1
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    Noob Guide To The Dragstrip

    Don't want to look like a d-bag now that I finally own something worth taking to the track. I'm hoping to go before the season is over. Help me out with some pointers . . . 5.9 specific are a plus!

  2. #2
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    skinny pedal, on the right.

    push it down.



    lul


    staging is the hardest part, until you get a feel for where the lights are. jsut watch everyone else and you will see - once the first pair of yellow lights come on, stop, and creeeeeeeep forward till both pairs are on. put teh shifter down into 2 (2-3 usually shifts too soon, hold it out to redline) with O/D off the whole time - then i usually stall up to 1000rpm. then teh yellow lights will start coming on. there are 3 yellows, then green. once the 3rd yellow lights, let off the brake and go WOT - by the time you react, teh car moves and triggers the lights, it will be green. if you wait till green to go, you will get SLAUGHTERED at the tree.

    then jsut stay WOT until you are PAST the board. there is PLENTY of room to slow down, so dont jump the gun by letting off too early
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  3. #3
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    I assume stall=brake torque? (Holding down the gas and brake at the same time)

    2-3 will shift too soon even with my SCT tune? Shift points are at 5200 currently.

  4. #4
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    ah, with SCT then jsut leave it in drive w/ OD off

    and yeah, hold the brake, gas it up to 1000rpm
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  5. #5
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    If you are just going to a test-n-tune then don't worry about reaction time, it doesn't figure into the 1/4 time. RT is only important if you are racing.

    I'd drive around the water box unless you are going in 2wd.

  6. #6
    FIRED MOD BUBBADOG's Avatar
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    Look bro its easy..When u first get there give your truck a 30 minute kool down go watch for 30 minutes or so get a feel of the light see how other cars do there thing etc...Then after that let her eat...U have a pre-stage light first set of yellow..creep maybe 6 inches for the final stage light yellow...Wait for other car to stage..AS SOON AS U SEE THE THIRD SET OF YELLOW LIGHT GO GO GO ..Do not wait for green if so U LOSE... I mean leave right on the 3rd yellow its all timing man...Now with my 5.9 i found it best to stall it around 1800 RPMS then go...Just put your foot on brake give your truck alittle gas until RPMS are on 1800 or so when THIRD yellow comes on SMASH THE GAS...Make sure your OD is off in staging lanes to lol...
    ......I LOVE MY JEEP LIKE A FAT KID LOVES CAKE..

  7. #7
    Black Storm GrandHokie98's Avatar
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    something i learned pretty quickly, if you dont stall in 2wd, it will break the wheels loose on takeoff.

    but, my times in 4x4 full time without stall were equal to 2wd with stall

    so which is better? 4x4 or 2wd?
    '98 ZJ 5.9L
    Suspension: Stock, 235/75R15 BFG AT's, AR767 rims with 4" BS
    Engine: Fastman 52mm TB, K&N FIPK Gen 2, Kolak Exhaust, SCT Tuned, M1 Intake
    DT Ceramic Coated Headers, Kolak Ignition, 242 TC Swap, Relocated AIT, Taurus E-Fan
    Audio: Rockford Fosgate P8002 and P4004 amps, 2x12" Kicker CVR subs, Kicker SS56.2 components in Q-Logic Kickpods, Front and Rear Punch Components, another set of components in the sound bar, 3600 watts total, AVIC N3 Navigation Unit
    Lighting: 8300k HID 9004 Hi/Low Headlights, 8000k HID H3 Off-Road Lamps, 8000k HID H3 Fog Lights

  8. #8
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    awd is easier and more consistant
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  9. #9
    Black Storm GrandHokie98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    awd is easier and more consistant
    no objection...but that doesnt answer the question...which will give better times?
    '98 ZJ 5.9L
    Suspension: Stock, 235/75R15 BFG AT's, AR767 rims with 4" BS
    Engine: Fastman 52mm TB, K&N FIPK Gen 2, Kolak Exhaust, SCT Tuned, M1 Intake
    DT Ceramic Coated Headers, Kolak Ignition, 242 TC Swap, Relocated AIT, Taurus E-Fan
    Audio: Rockford Fosgate P8002 and P4004 amps, 2x12" Kicker CVR subs, Kicker SS56.2 components in Q-Logic Kickpods, Front and Rear Punch Components, another set of components in the sound bar, 3600 watts total, AVIC N3 Navigation Unit
    Lighting: 8300k HID 9004 Hi/Low Headlights, 8000k HID H3 Off-Road Lamps, 8000k HID H3 Fog Lights

  10. #10
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    in theory, RWD is less mass that has to be spun, but AWD has no traction issues. and its easier to jump ahead of someone at teh start than it is to chase them down at the end.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the tips! Some good stuff in here.
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

  12. #12
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    in theory, RWD is less mass that has to be spun, but AWD has no traction issues. and its easier to jump ahead of someone at teh start than it is to chase them down at the end.

    I have done both ways.... AWD and 2WD.

    2WD is fun for the show off factor... nice to always make some white some and soften up the rubber... But hopefully you will be running slicks if you go this route... ELSE, make sure you applied a generous coating of wax on the rear outter fenders.... cause you will literally eat your tires up and spend the next hour and a half gently scraping them off the paint. (NOT really a fun thing). Plus you will not make good traction on street tires.... I ended up running a 17 second 1/4 mile because I spun all the way through 3rd gear.

    AWD.... This is a blast!!! I still slip a tad, but only for a tiny split second. I recommend on street tires to air up the fronts to 40psi and the rears to 25psi. Most of your weight transfer will go to the rear, so it will flatten/spread out the footprint for more traction. Dont worry about the wet box.... They will know you are AWD. Depending on the you torque converter's stall speed and power adders (supercharger/Meth) you will have to play with your RPMs on the HOT Braking. I spin up to 2500 - 2700 before I release.... This allows my SC to spool up a little.... Because my tires are deflated a little, they grab really good. OD off is a must!!!! Now the worst thing we all have in common.. regardless of our machines, is out crappy OEM brakes, which will not hold us in a stopped position when HP is wanting to be let out..... (BIG Brakes are a good thing in this case)... you can spool up more power without the brakes giving out.

    ALSO.....I have tried dragging with the Tranny in "D" with OD off and letting the Tranny shift how it wants to... and compared it to auto-manual shifting..... bumping it from 1 - 2 - 3.... I find the AUTO-Manual method more responsive since I can get closer to my redline before shifting (6500rpms).

    My final solution to my shifting for best response will be the installation of the B&M HAMMER shifter (Ratchet style shifter) and a full racing 46RE Tranny. Currently I am running a APS Custom Valve Body with all the tweaks from Wayne.... and a Couple more Tweaks from Martin Saine and an Edge Racing 2600 Billet Torque converter My Race Tranny will be built from Martin... He seems to be very responsive and absolutely on top of the world for his work!... Bubba's jeep is proof of that.


    Good luck out there.. and keep up posted on your times!
    Last edited by 5.9_Racer; 09-12-2009 at 08:25 PM.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
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    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  13. #13
    5.2 owns sloZJ's Avatar
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    so all of u run with OD off? when i do this i hit redline 3rd gear topped out before the traps. i have to hit OD. now i have bigger tires to try and help but what r yall hitting mph in 3rd? topped out.

    and

    2WD FTW not just fo sho!
    93 ZJ

    12 seconds worth of mods
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx9GNaYr5hg

  14. #14
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    what is your redline?.... mine is about 6500rpms
    also what gears are you running? at 3.73 (stockers), I hit the trap at around 4600 in 3rd...... but then again, my lockout was holding me up, Martin just corrected that for me, so will see what she does next time.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  15. #15
    Member NoTime's Avatar
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    I think Matts problem is he is running OBD1 ( so no SCT )and he hits the rev limiter.

    Maybe on one of the test/tune runs,,,, I have read that if you turn key to start ( while open throttle down track ) it will turn off the rev limiter ( I think it gets rid of top speed limit too ) This is on OBD1 systems... do some searchs on it
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Platinum - 408 SC Sleeper ( 7.49 / 11.? )
    2012 RAM - Tow Vehicle
    2007 GC SRT8 Daily Driver
    2003 TJ Rubicon Inca Gold - Trail blaster
    1973 Trumph GT6 MK III
    20 Ft Enclosed Car Hauler

  16. #16
    5.2 owns sloZJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoTime View Post
    I think Matts problem is he is running OBD1 ( so no SCT )and he hits the rev limiter.

    Maybe on one of the test/tune runs,,,, I have read that if you turn key to start ( while open throttle down track ) it will turn off the rev limiter ( I think it gets rid of top speed limit too ) This is on OBD1 systems... do some searchs on it
    scary!!!

    if i had 6500 redline i would be 11s
    93 ZJ

    12 seconds worth of mods
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx9GNaYr5hg

  17. #17
    Member NoTime's Avatar
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    Try it Matt on a test / tune run........ let us know

    I know mine blows up when I forget the Meth injection....... ( should have listened to Ring )

    Now comes the 408
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Platinum - 408 SC Sleeper ( 7.49 / 11.? )
    2012 RAM - Tow Vehicle
    2007 GC SRT8 Daily Driver
    2003 TJ Rubicon Inca Gold - Trail blaster
    1973 Trumph GT6 MK III
    20 Ft Enclosed Car Hauler

  18. #18
    5.2 owns sloZJ's Avatar
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    nice, so u dont think it will activate the starter?
    93 ZJ

    12 seconds worth of mods
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx9GNaYr5hg

  19. #19
    Member NoTime's Avatar
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    Here's what I found doing a search on DakotaDur Forum

    As you are reaching the speed limiter, Turn the key forward to "start" Your speedo will quit working and you can keep accelerating past the limiter, but you won't have a speedo anymore. Than get back under the limiter and let the key go and everything will start working again. I guess if you let the key go when you are past the limiter it will throw a code.

    By the way, you won't grind the starter because after you are moving, the starter gets locked out, but you will grind it if you try it at a stand still.

    I will keep looking but I think that is what I had read last year
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Platinum - 408 SC Sleeper ( 7.49 / 11.? )
    2012 RAM - Tow Vehicle
    2007 GC SRT8 Daily Driver
    2003 TJ Rubicon Inca Gold - Trail blaster
    1973 Trumph GT6 MK III
    20 Ft Enclosed Car Hauler

  20. #20
    5.2 owns sloZJ's Avatar
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    so this is for top speed not rev? WEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!
    93 ZJ

    12 seconds worth of mods
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kx9GNaYr5hg

  21. #21
    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    What is OD even for then guys? Everyone seems to recommend against it.

  22. #22
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    OD is for economy mode. It drops the RPMs down to converse heat, gas.....
    Or for cruising on a HWY trip or anything above 55mph. On the track, it is a waste.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  23. #23
    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.9_Racer View Post
    OD is for economy mode. It drops the RPMs down to converse heat, gas.....
    Or for cruising on a HWY trip or anything above 55mph. On the track, it is a waste.
    Interesting. I thought it was the opposite, eliminating 4th gear so to speak and thus enabling higher rpms. Doesn't it seem more logical that the tranny would be set to run in "economy" mode all the time and then when you need the extra punch you push the button? I don't know, it just seems backwards to me.

  24. #24
    Black Storm GrandHokie98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    Interesting. I thought it was the opposite, eliminating 4th gear so to speak and thus enabling higher rpms. Doesn't it seem more logical that the tranny would be set to run in "economy" mode all the time and then when you need the extra punch you push the button? I don't know, it just seems backwards to me.
    this is exactly how it is... you push the button to turn it off
    '98 ZJ 5.9L
    Suspension: Stock, 235/75R15 BFG AT's, AR767 rims with 4" BS
    Engine: Fastman 52mm TB, K&N FIPK Gen 2, Kolak Exhaust, SCT Tuned, M1 Intake
    DT Ceramic Coated Headers, Kolak Ignition, 242 TC Swap, Relocated AIT, Taurus E-Fan
    Audio: Rockford Fosgate P8002 and P4004 amps, 2x12" Kicker CVR subs, Kicker SS56.2 components in Q-Logic Kickpods, Front and Rear Punch Components, another set of components in the sound bar, 3600 watts total, AVIC N3 Navigation Unit
    Lighting: 8300k HID 9004 Hi/Low Headlights, 8000k HID H3 Off-Road Lamps, 8000k HID H3 Fog Lights

  25. #25
    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrandHokie98 View Post
    this is exactly how it is... you push the button to turn it off
    Oh ok, so I guess I had it backwards. I want to get this straight though...so say I'm at a red light, I want to take off fast, I push the O/D button to turn it OFF and the little light on the button comes ON indicating I have turned it OFF, and then it's time to smash the gas pedal to the floor and take off? Lol
    Last edited by Wrinklechops; 10-06-2009 at 10:32 PM.

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