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  1. #51
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepkid View Post
    Would what this guy has be the windage trays we are looking for

    http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/1557419239.html
    I think so...the listings I just checked from summit, and watt I could read, indicates that they fit all Sm blocks, those most likely came from LA 340 which was a stock item........However the Milodon diamond stripper is a safe bet because they indicate the position of the "sump"..........

    just some more reading:



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  2. #52
    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    Man U guys bum my azz right out, I spend countless hours researchin modded keggers( I posted on JU three years ago looking for up to date material and was ridiculed{those that did are on here!} for not searching threads...called a nubee{like who are U?}..etcetcetc) spent time checking 4-sale adds and then modding one, buying one, buyiny an M1 to learn and then did watt I think is an "OK" part to Evil's Corner and all anybody sees is an Elcheapo (goood looking) rad hose!!!!!!!!!!!! I have been doing this many years???/!!!!

    THE REASON IS.....this should be in "How to Customize", IS you see the impact of the Hilborn which is surounded by not so ordinary black accessories, then the braided hose sazzz Hello!

    I'm gonna go sit by the fire and pout.
    don't be sad Rick! We all just want to be as cool as you with the radiator hose! So it's just a cover huh, it's not a full stainless steel setup with AN fittings or anything fancy huh?

    Back to the kegger though... you did a nice job! I might have gotten it powdercoated just for the hell of it though, but that's just me. So what do you think an estimated power upgrade over the stock kegger would be then? Supposedly the Hughes intake gains what, 20hp? So a modded kegger gains... 10? 15? Does it take away from low end torque? Still give good mid level power? How about up top? I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too so what are the pros/cons?

  3. #53
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    I was veri suprised as to how well it worked, but I can draw no conclusions because it also got a real CAI and a spacer plate that I made, and a velocity plate......My idear there came from the long tubes of the cross ram intakes and a tunnel rams velocity... I though that the flow increase could be augmented by greater velocity (even though the runners were shortened), and the larger TB would also help in power production.....Now I don't have anyway of proving that except to say that it pulled all the way to redline.
    I was happy.
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  4. #54
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    What is the spacer plate and the velocity plate?
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
    360 Stroker, 408c.i.


  5. #55
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    What is the spacer plate and the velocity plate?
    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeRideR View Post
    ah ok, yea i put a flux compressor in mine. Twice as good as SC
    First of all remember that I've had an M1, Kegger w/TB modified, 62mm on a ported 4.0l intake, M1 with 980cfm TB, then with 10psig, Modded kegger with V plate, 4.0l with Helix, Modded kegger with spacer and V-plate.......<I drove them all/owned them all.

    The velocity plate is a rare part for our motors, Moparboy/dude/guy got it for me, I mentioned above, that in that project I suspected that getting clean/cold air into the modded kegger would be like a tunnel ram and support power in the upper RPM range. The set up you see in my pics is just that feeding a set of Hughes big valve heads, modded exhaust and Mopar PCM. It pulled hard off the line and just kept pulling till it shifted(had a nice shift kit installed) at 5250rpm, now I manually shift all the time and several times had it to 6000rpm, she would go passed that because of the Hughes springs......Now I drove that setup without the Modded Kegger(say without a flux kompressor) and drove it with the (flux kompressor) and it was a solid improvement!!!!


    The Velocity plate is a spacer plate with trapazoidal shapes in the wall of the plate when exposed to vacuum speeds the air up, the same principle as a venturi in a carb-ba-traitor, same design in our TBs.(there is a neck down to increase velocity of the incomming air......
    That is watt I built^, got the idear after I fell and hit my head on a toilet, when I woke up I built this:



    Here you can see the flux cap....ehr....the second plate:



    Tech note, I bored the second plate(the one i made out of al, stock) to 52mm to match the kegs top.......

    I need some Plutonium...........................
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  6. #56
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    The Velocity plate is a spacer plate with trapazoidal shapes in the wall of the plate when exposed to vacuum speeds the air up, the same principle as a venturi in a carb-ba-traitor, same design in our TBs.(there is a neck down to increase velocity of the incomming air......
    Wouldn't this be a bottleneck and restrict airflow?

    I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this works.
    Last edited by JGC403; 01-19-2010 at 05:31 PM.
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
    360 Stroker, 408c.i.


  7. #57
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    Wouldn't this be a bottleneck and restrict airflow?

    I'm just trying to wrap my head around how this works.
    Good question....but all you guys have failed to notice that the air in my sit. is RAMMED in! not sucked thru.....so as speed increases(such as a WOT blast thru the gears) the rammed, true cold airs velocity is accentuated by that set up, kinda like putting one twenty three jigga-watts thru the flux capacitor

    I read a tech-blurb on KRCs web site years ago that their opinion was to feed these motors more air as a first step in moddification toward more power..that idear is watt I have found to be true...anything to increase breathing helps.........

    there is way to many people arguing over plates, helix bores, fitment issues, which TB is best and so on for me to comment, but that set up works...
    You will never see it again as no-one is going to cut their hood.....
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 01-20-2010 at 09:14 AM.
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  8. #58
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeRideR View Post
    i'm confused i thought you had a niner and an 05, and isnt the niner boosted? Wheres the filter for that ram air
    Not as confused as I am on a dailey basis!

    Where is??????

    I ran it with a filter and without just to see if I could tell the difference, I couldn't really, but i almost could say that if felt smoother with the air cleaner...I guess turbulance with in the scoop is not as good as air being "controlled" thru the air cleaner????????????

    ah......I owned a 1996 4.0L Up Country ZJ
    a......1996 4.0L Limited (the PPE) ZJ
    a.....1990 Comanche Eliminator MJ
    a.....1988 Comanche Pioneer MJ
    a.....1996 Cherokee XJ
    a.....1998 Limited Grand Cherokee 5.2 ZJ
    a......1998 5.9 Limited ZJ
    a......2005 WK Rocky Mountain Edition...w/4.7 slug

    that ram air project was my DD the 5.2 ZJ....Sold!:
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 02-14-2010 at 06:28 PM.
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  9. #59
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeRideR View Post
    ah ha ok! No hemi 4 u i c!
    that engine ain't got the worth of a turd.
    But its my try-to-leave-it-alone DD.
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  10. #60
    Member 273-4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    Hey fire, take pics and do a complete write up so it can be stickied!


    Well? any word? Im ready to pull the trigger on this deal. KRC has a post on Bionic Dodge that he got 0 gains over an M1 on a chasss dyno with a modd ed motor. He didnt have any results about MPG.
    Just call me Richard

  11. #61
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    I dont have an AirGap to take pics of.... Milan (Serb Z06) does.. that is who's we installed on last month... sorry about that.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  12. #62
    Chris Jeep98ZJ's Avatar
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    Some awesome info here guys keep it up.
    Platinum 5.9 167K when i bought her. 2.25" engine pipes 3" Magnaflow cat, 3" Hooker Aerochamber, 3" tail pipe, Ported kegger, 52MM Throttle Body, 24lb ford injectors, K&N drop in filter, Cast JEEP valve covers, MSD coil and wires, All new 6 piece clear light kit, 255/65/16 General Grabber HTS, 242 conversion, XJ u-joint front axle shafts

    96 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.2, picked up 12/3/13, 191K miles, edelbrock air cleaner, dual catback exhaust, headers, 50MM TB, 26,000 GVW tranny cooler, 4" lift, 35" General Grabber AT2 tires on Mickey Thompson Classic wheels.

  13. #63
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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  14. #64
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #007 Updated!
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  15. #65
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    #007 Updated!
    And this is why I'm gonna work on the one off me 93 so if I mess up I've still got a good one to put back on. Also gonna be moddin the kegger from the 93 also, gonna need to make a plate to block off the egr port and gonna try my hand at makin a plenum plate.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  16. #66
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Solved the "R1 Renzoni mount'' to stock TB problem.......................:
    Speed secret comming!!!!!!!!
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 02-21-2010 at 12:35 PM.
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  17. #67
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #019...Air Hat Hold Down...Wraith Bridge..
    The renzoni bridge...Take a look:






    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^now thats pure sex...also cost about the same!!!!! U figure that one out!!!

    You can bend a piece of 1/4-20 allthread to make a good hold down:




    But the problem of getting a Renozi style hold down/bridge for a stock modified TB has eluded everyone because of the nature of the casting of the stock TB, there is a void at the IAC valve,( IAC well) also located there is the tab for centering the air hat over the TB......
    Working one night in a science lab I hit my head on a drawer without a handle and I sh!t you knot...came up with this:
    I'll let the pics do the talkin.....

    first the victum:


    Then my Idear conserning a drawer pull (industrial grade) for a bridge!!!!!





    Careful cutting of the tab at the IAC well is necessary!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Taping is wayyyy techie....But if you look at the TB, you will notice that the bridge can be rotated in any number of positions to get good anchoring!!!!







    OK, not as sexy, but still a twitch in the ---------
    You do not have to mount the bridge where I did, I just like pain! It can be rotated anywhere you can get a clean hole and screw up from underneath.
    Other options would be to fill the IAC well with epoxy and set the anchor (an 8-32 stud) in as a captured stud.....its up to you....
    Then all you have to do is tape the center of the bridge 1/4-20 and it will recieve standard Carb/TB studs...a mr. gasket stud kit is only 3.49skins.....


    EDIT...PICS ADDED





    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 03-07-2010 at 02:44 PM.
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  18. #68
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeep98ZJ View Post
    Hit your head a little more often it seems to work for you lol. Could come up with some more cool stuff for us in the process.
    Thats real F-in nice!
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  19. #69
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    sweet addition Rick!.... I like it!
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  20. #70
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #017...Battery-in-Trunk

    From Mopar:Performance Relocation Center

    It's no secret that trucks are nose-heavy. They respond better to lightening up front. One easy way to do this is to move the battery to the right rear of the bed. This'll shift about 40 pounds behind the rear axle and will dramatically help the truck transfer weight to the rear tires. All you need is a starter relay from any 1960s or 1970s Mopar, some battery cable, a battery box, and a Saturday afternoon. Freeing the engine compartment of the battery leaves space for a second air duct to the air breather, which is what the racer shown here has.




    I have read in several manuals and books that stated that: Weight removed from the nose and relocated to the rear near the axle is almost equal to weight removed!!!
    Idear here is weight taken off the nose of the vehicle alows better weight transfer during a launch, the weight then added to the rear as ballast helps "plant" the rear tires for traction!
    Examples of this would be some of the factory "lite weight" race cars made back in the day. The T-bolt and Hemi Dart had Tractor batteries mounted in the trunk for this purpose. Yes, as much as they were lightened by acid dipping the frames, al. brackets and bumpers, stereo deletes as well as heater/blower deletes...the factory knew the importance of adding weight to the rear, so they added a heavy tractor battery.............

    So, watt about us?
    There are several instances amoung our group where this would be a good mod. Any person drag racing, street racing, anyone with a Super Charger, anyone into "road racing" a ZJ...........heres why:

    Imagine a line down the center of yer ZJ from front to back (dividing it in two) and a line side to side (equal distant from front to back) dividing it into two again.......view this from looking down on the ZJ from above....ok, got it?

    Now a good balanced vehicle used for fun (racing/road racing) would try to get equal balance front to back and side to side...all things being equal!


    Look at our problem....the driver side front quarter is the heaviest, the drivers half is heaviest (consider the spare)..front half is obviously heavier too.

    So heres watt can be done with out going broke overnight!
    Ifs its within budget and fits the build you can go to a straight axle up front and lose the weight, coupled to Xing the t-case and weight reduction in the motor compartment can make front to back ballance "better"

    The spare could be removed for weight reduction along with the tools and other items discussed in our weight reduction thread.......

    The battery up front is heavy, does offset the driver (in regards to side to side in stock location) but would be better removed to the rear all together! Moved to the passenger side rear would be best.
    You have to relocate the battery anyway when installing a Super Charger so why not get it out of the engine bay making more room, and if yer piecing a setup together as most are doing nowdays, its less parts you have to scavange and less weight to boot, the money spent on the battery relocation part of the install can now be put toward the battery being relocated to the trunk instead where the weight would be beneficial!

    This is watt I did in my 9er project, and in my 340 Van project.
    I simply got a relocation kit from summit and did the switchroo one day.
    It would be easy to make yer own kit with welders cable, a Walmart Marine Battery box and some good olde fashion know how.........

    I located mine very close to the rear door pillar, (passenger side) I drilled through the floor pan and anchored the battery hold downs with large fender washers and dumb-dumb for a water tight seal. I also added a light piece of pine 1x6 to the bottom of the battery box to splay the weight of the Red Top battery, I fabbed a hold down bar from galv. angle, rerouted a good ground to the captured stud in the passenger side frame rail used for the hitch (that went bye bye)....(cleaning the M8ing surfaces as I went)...I also added a lead for the battery tender (this is a must my Z-Joes and Z-Jets)....then removed the seats and carpet and routed the + lead thru the sub frame rails (interior) and thru the fire wall behind the PCM, and onward to the area near the stock battery tray (which went bye bye) and made the connections....DONE!

    This clearly off sets the weight added by the Snooper Charger and you will notice the peppy feel, or nose light feel of the truck...deff. feels more ballanced....I also coupled that mod to ditching my spare and sliding my sub to that side...............

    Lotsa tricks here and cool stuff, will try to cover the install in a pic essay!!!!!!!!!!
    Peace!



    OK... heres the finished install:



    Pic here shows the custom bar, terminal protectors and battery tender lead install:



    Rubber gromet to fight abrasion, also mucho convolute tubing...........



    This shows the simple anchoring and sealing the unwanted stuff out!!!



    The new ground wire and some extra hold downs...mee and vibration don't do the same GF!





    Now heres the routing through the engine bay, I used a comon PVC Pull 90* for 3/4" PVC conduit used in construction to feed the positive feed through the fire wall (sealed with dumb dumb) and into the engine bay behind the PCM....(this is a huge simple trick as the tube from the pull 90* acts like a gromet only far superior and can be anchored with PVC cemented bung on the interior side for a "stress" free install...WAY safe!!!!!!!!) it is vibration proof and isolates the battery lead from grounding on the sheet metal of the bulk head!< Wraith tech tip #1.







    You then feed the lead into a straight PVC junction box, make the connection with a cable connector (industrial grade)...attach the water proof lid, finish routing the wires and mount the battery thingie, coat all exposed + connections (Bo don't do fire either)...yer done.




    http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/rebakit.html
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 05-22-2012 at 12:48 PM.
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  21. #71
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    #017...Battery-in-Trunk

    I located mine very clost to the rear door pillars, I drilled through the floor pan and anchored the battery hold downs with large fender washers and dumb-dumb for a water tight seal. I also added a light piece of pine 1x6 to the bottom of the battery box to splay the weight of the Red Top battery, I fabbed a hold down bar from galv. angle, rerouted a good ground to the captured stud in the passenger side frame rail used for the hitch (that went bye bye)....(cleaning the M8ing surfaces as I went)...I also added a lead for the battery tender (this is a must my Z-Joes and Z-Jets)....then removed the seats and carpet and routed the + lead thru the sub frame rails (interior) and thru the fire wall behind the PCM, and onward to the area near the stock battery tray (which went bye bye) and made the connections....DONE!
    When you got rid of the stock battery tray in your 9er, did you do replace the vacuum reservoir that is part of the stock battery tray with anything?
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
    360 Stroker, 408c.i.


  22. #72
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    I say we merge this thread with the Dyno thread to see if any of these little things make a difference when it comes to putting power to the ground lol jk
    No merge...but I accept the challenge...If I get my next DD Project off the ground I wiil mod it and Dyno it!!!! I am very confident in my power making abilities.....it will be 5.2 with just about everything I've written about....
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  23. #73
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    When you got rid of the stock battery tray in your 9er, did you do replace the vacuum reservoir that is part of the stock battery tray with anything?
    Forgot about that damn thing, Hummmm????? don't remember seeing it of late....better look, eh???
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  24. #74
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    its under the tray.... and I believe it can be completely removed along with the cruise control servo...all the way to the M1 intake.... From what I remember, that one line just has 2 things (vacuum) connected to it.

    I want to remove mine.. might do it this weekend.

    Unless someone here can answer why it is really needed? code thrown?...etc..etc ?
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  25. #75
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.9_Racer View Post
    its under the tray.... and I believe it can be completely removed along with the cruise control servo...all the way to the M1 intake.... From what I remember, that one line just has 2 things (vacuum) connected to it.

    I want to remove mine.. might do it this weekend.

    Unless someone here can answer why it is really needed? code thrown?...etc..etc ?



    Yesser, me agrees....right after I took the pic, I was thinking why is that still there???? and Y didn't I drill out the PDC support bracket while I was in there?...and why didn't I cut away the excess metal behind the headlight too

    Ohwell.
    Captain of the Nine

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