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  1. #1
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #001 drive shaft removal
    Lost 17lbs.
    Runs stronger and a lot smoother! Snaps the rear tires loose in an instant!!!
    Gonna need track claw!


    #002...IAT relocate this is where you remove the IAT from the manifold and relocate it to the air tube passed the K&N in a FIPAK or other CAI. It is slated for 3-5hp and 5-7 ft.pds of torque.....a complement to this would be the 180 TS. Not any lower as the fuel curve is excessive and slows u down in 3rd gear and onward.....
    This is posted in KRCs speed tricks on their web site.....
    You might get a CEL without the TS. I had this set up on the DD with 160 TS and was fine until I installed the proper one at 180, then at random it threw the code. FWIW.

    Today I relocated the IAT to the CAIs air tube, heres the install:

    For those of you who do not know where it is located:


    Remove the sensor with a 3/4 inch wrench:









    The sensor and 3/8s NPT pipe plug that goes back into the manifolds port:





    Now mark the air tube so the sensor is easy to get to, and doesen't casue any restrictions or conflicts....



    At the work bench, I pulled a 3/8s NPT tap and beehive drill to drill a hole in the CAIs Al. tube and thread it:







    Sensor installed:


    Now cut the plug off the original wire harness as this has to be relocated and a new section of wire added to reach the new location, I'm using stereo speaker wire as it is identified, just match the factory color coded wires with the correct speaker wire, In my case the orange identified wire was matched to the speaker wires identified strand:



    Shrink wrap water proof connectors are used over top of the soldered connections:



    Cover the connection with convolute tubing:




    Sensor installed with back up nut so vibration will not losen up the connection, also used silicone as a thread locker, the threads in the Al. air tube are weak!!!!



    Now reattach the other end using the factory plug that was removed earlier:



    Now plug her in:


    Finish up with more convolute tubing and your finished!!!



    #003...Air Hat Spacer!...Mr gasket sells a plastic spacer that is incerted under the air hat and ubove the TB, I used one on the 9er SCed project and got a real seat-of-the-pants improvement!!! I sealed it carefuly because I'm dealing with boost. APS used to sell this in billet but no longer makes them do to loss of the CNC program.
    I highly recomend this.....lets have some feed back from uall!
    this is a cheap trick, also to describe the premiss here, just look at the factory air hat compared to the K&N, the K&N has more volume at the TB, with the addition of the spacer ring, ur gaining more volume which helps air flow.http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
    hers one example^



    heres a shot of the spacer on the F&B on my M1
    of note here is the [F&B R1 Renzoni Mount], solid clamping for the metal air hats!

    #004...down pipes and merge collectorfor watt ever reason, lets say headers are out of the question but you want to improve exhaust flow infront of ur custom exhaust.
    Find a quality exhaust shop that has non skirt wearing personnel.....
    remove the down pipes and have them fab a pair of pipes that join at a proper merge collector such as those sold by flowmaster.....
    check out the pics from my DD project, also note that one pipe is two so as to avoid a nasty bend! another trick when your working with watt ya got!!!
    http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku



    This makes a solid improvement, for around 100skins!!!!!!
    This puts solid boot to soft A$$ concerning headers and cost for HP returned!


    #005...open ended filter element.....once you find a filter(cone type) that out flows the other guys, and its as big as can be(no hot dogs up a hallway here) then pick their model with an open end...it flows more air straighter!!!
    One type is Akimoto, there are others:


    the 40L had the hood cut for fresh air forced directly at the filter, this is best!!!

    #006......intake turtle, or blending mound..........
    a device placed on the floor of the intake manifold to help direct air into the runners of the intake more smoothly...it works, most report smoother off idle transition, and more bottom end out-da-hole, it has been stated that this secret device is worth north of 5-7hp. They are priced around 30 to 40 skins.
    There are several venders, so SFers, start ur searchin!!!
    Some examples:
    JeepJeepJeep, using a pic u sent me!



    #007...Modified stock TB. Ok alot is written on this, but here goes: I did this using around -the-house-tools, cut off almost all the protruding metal ubove the TB's "deck". Polish all surfaces, then bore down the throat, of note here is this area closes down (a Venturi of sorts) remove all metal straight down to the butterfly WITHOUT increasing the diameter AT the butterfly plate, this will cause an idle problem, this can be done quickly with a hole saw (2 1/8-54mm) You MUST be steady!!!! Then polish all vertical sufaces with dremel and flapper wheel. This can also be done by hand with emery cloth. Grind down any bolt head/nut shaft that protrudes past the throttle shaft, thats stage II, one being a simple polish of the blades and shaft, stage III is to thin the shaft and bevel the retainer screws, BE CAREFUL HERE, a trick is to remove the screws and lock tight them in before removing any material.......
    Gents, check out the photo essay you will see pics of watt was discussed...
    Now on the back side, same thing, open it up, speed trick #007a is to glue the gasket in place on the back of said TB and perform a gasket match at the same time, check the pic....
    #007b is the home brew air hat rod, bent in a vise and tuned up with a set of dikes.....works well and is cheap, and lets more air past than the stock stuff.









    UPDATED:

    Ok I just did another TB from my 5.9 for a future project, same as ubove with some updated pics:

    I used a handheld drill with a 51mm hole saw to do the initial bore, You have to have a steady hand here, a drill press would be better if you don't have good hand control!





    Ok, after the initial bore I went to two different carbide burrs to cut away any high areas left by the teeth from the hole saw....bout 10 min.
    Then to a small cutter on my Dremmel to fine tune any grooves......then to a sanding drum (mini) and special attention is paid to the slight lip left at the butterfly....DO NOT REDUCE THIS AREA or you could get a high idle........

    The first pic shows the tiny lip, notice that it finishes dead even with the edge of the butterfly plate while not cutting the lip away....this is dead on handy work! You must take yer time here and work slowly!!!!!!!!


    This close up shows the delicate work done to blend that slight lip while not touching the seal to the edge of the butterfly....



    Next flip the TB over and you will notice the second restriction below the butterfly...this can be removed with a drum sander attached to the dremmel...TAKE YER TIME!!!!!!! and grind on a slight angle OUTWARD to "hourglass" the TB....then polish with spongy thingie from Dremmel!









    #008...super charger pulley, 101: Anyone who has got and installed a SC needs a crow bar, duct tape, and super glue to keep from smiling!!! Why? BOOST!!!! So how do you get more? A smaller pulley will overdrive the head unit, everybody gets one sooner or later, so why wait?
    The vortech units sold to ZJ owners do not show a smaller pulley in a 7 groove style, you need to install an 8-groove pulley made for the mustangs, there are several sizes, your courage will help u pick the size, and a universal assumtion is one size down equates to 1lb. of boost!, or 7% more power, all things being equaled out.

    http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...p=44&cat_key=6
    heres the link to needing more duct tape and super glue!!!!!^

    #009....Chemical Intercooler...
    Speeding down the run way, overloaded with ordnance you realize that yer not going to make it!!! You push the ARMED button and flip on the switch that reads TAKE OFF ASSIST....you become airbourn!...Watt just happened?....you turned on a Methanol injection system that supplied enough extra power to save yer hide, and give you a chance to give "Jerry" some uncle sam pay back!
    Enough history....Snow Performance sells chemical intercoolers that run on a mixture of Methanol (meth) and water, Windshield washer fluid!!! Thats right, read the label!!!
    Watt it does when injected in front of the TB is chemically cool the intake charge down by the meth evaporating and suppressing detonation by quenching the cylinder with water! You are able to run more timming advance(more power) and run safer! The meth is 111 to 121 octane, this really helps us SCed guys because of boost pressure and detonation are a headache, no doubt!
    Now you can adjust when the "spray" comes on, the amount delivered to the engine (through nozzle sizes) and pump pressure...a little tunning is all that is required!
    #009a...Nitromethane!!!! can be added to the meth/water for a boost in HP up to 50hp depending on the nozzle size, this is the safe level as out lined by snows research...WEE DOGGIES!!!!!.....THIS SH!T WORKS!
    Check out the pic essay, my set up showing pump, tank and nozzle set up, and my 9er, like my first wife has been drinking again!!!!!




    #010...insulated fuel rails......it has been told to me that any heat kept off any engine part is good for racing! The fuel rails on the Magnums pick up a lot of heat, the fuel expands....less fuel, keep the fuel cooler (now denser) and you can make more power, I did this on my 340 van project,I ran faster and never looked back! I fabbed a kool kan with 17' of tubbing inside a thermos water container with a drain cock, and packed it with ice! The carbs fuel bowls would sweat like a whore in church!
    Summit sells AN eqipped fuel line heat exchangers.....good, Now watt about us?
    Remove your fuel rails, go to Home Depot, plumbing dept. and buy some foil faced, foam backed tape for pipe insulation in cold weather.....they have a lot of it and its cheap. Then to the duct dept, and buy a small roll of SS duct tape, AKA seam tape (tinfoil with a sticky side). Cut out round pices of the foam tape and stick them to the ends (dbl. layer it) Now several lenghts that match the diameter of the rail and start to wrap it cutting out small pieces to get around the fuel injector tubes, work your way around, leaving NO spaces, and wrap the transfer tube, now do the same with the SS tape, be neat and cut the tape TIGHT, double wrap all sufaces!!! About three hours!
    The TB throttle lever might interfear a bit, just dent in the wrapping and you'll be fine.....Check out the pics:




    this is the set up on my 340 van.......


    #011...Windage tray.....or crank scraper.... idea here is to "clean off oil" clinging to the crank, and prevent oil from splashing onto the crank that increases its weight. When spinning, this extra weight saps HP big time!!! I have read several articals on windage trays, the 5.2 and 5.9 are "plagued" by this problem. The windage tray is just that, a tray that is mounted to the main caps with studs, then the tray is mounted onto the studs, positioned within an 1/8" of the rotating crank, then it will strip off the oil by means of a set of stamped louvers that face the crank, and allow the oil to drain back to the pan. This was standard fair on earlier A engines and on the 88-89 magnums.
    SO...a quick call to to yer fav. parts supplier can get u a Milodon windage tray and stud kit (get a melling blue print pump also{while yer in there} about 140 skins with pump).
    It was stated in an article that 19hp isa common gain at WOT in our engines!!!!
    Hughes stated with their crank girdle(also acting like a crank scraper) when they dynoed a 426 Magnum, made 49 extra HP at WOT!


    #012...Header to exhaust system connection! This is very important!!! Do NOT connect to stock converter!!!! ITS TO SMALL!!! You change a muffler to get rid of a restriction! You get a hi flow cat to do the same thing! Only a 3" in and out Hi flow cat is worth your time or money as the connection to the headers is 3" and this can be improved also! If you go the route of connecting your headers to a stock system, the 2 1/2" "collar" pipe fits over the stock pipe giving you only 2 1/4"!!! THIS SUCKS!!! You just made an ugly bottle neck worthy of a stiff boot in the ass!!!!
    Check this out, done the right way, with collector pipe cut off, flange enlarged, and oversize pipe fitted to the flange and welded so all the slip fits do not have a lip to catch exhaust flow and cause back pressure:

    As you can see in the pic, no collector to neck down, a completely smooth transition from the down pipe merge to the exhaust pipe....

    the slip fits here are correct!

    OK, enough about this muffler or that muffler.....The Borla XR1 is small, light weight, very well constructed and......well if u don't get, u don't get it
    TTFN!

    #013.....E-fan conversion.....Ok, many ways to skin a cat here, one popular way is to convert to the 9er set up, nothing wrong-wit-dat...BUT,
    I went to the bone yard and got a late, late model E-fan and shroud from a Volvo with relay and brackets for TWENTY skins!!
    You can relay this off of a temp switch, and second relay off the A/C to control the fan. Wiring is not hard to figure out, I also got a two fifty circuit breaker (40 amp) to wire inline......this is WAY cheap to convert a ZJ or other Jeep to electric fan cooling!!! I had the second relay and wiring harness left over from a light project!!!
    Now you save better than 10lbs and it is said that the clutch fan saps 7 to 13 hp! Recovering that for around 25skins! Priceless!!!!
    Of note here: Speedways catalog has a niffty device called: Spal Pulse Width Modulated Fan Controller that supplies the relay and wiring harness to control the fan and includes the rare A/C switch, it is programable and an answer to an SFers dreams!!!!!!!


    #014...Compessor by pass pulley.....Ok, never used the A/C in the niner, so it had to go!!!(along with the cruise control thing)...say bye bye to 30lbs, and you get lmore unrestricted air flow, which is a good thing.....the compressor saps hp, almost 10+ at WOT. If someone has up-to-date HP#s on this , please post em!!!
    Well you need to get a smaller belt, or a by pass pulley as I did because I have a good supply of the stock belts.....So, less weight, more hp, and better air flow through the rad for an hour of sweat equity and 40skins for the pulley!
    I'm IN DWAGS!
    Some pics of-what-it-look-like





    #015...Gasket matching......HEADERS...OK, If you install the header gaskets as they come out-of-the-box.....BIG F-UP!!!
    The 'stockers are not stamped correctly at all, the gasket material cuts off the passage from the head to the header flange pretty darn bad! Really this is sad!!! I have a dozen or so gaskets and they all are the same...Check the pic and compare the two ports, one is "stock" the other is matched so that there is no restriction between the head's port and the headers flange. If you just bolted them in with no mods to the gasket, well....BAD DWAG!!!Now...you will notice that I placed larger bolts through the flange bolt holes, this is done so you can take the" play" out of the gasket, or put another way: to center the gasket over the ports. You will notice that the divider is squarely between the center two port's divider walls, this is centered sideways and up & down, now remove all gasket material that "overhangs" into the port. As u grind, use the headers port wall as a stop.
    I use a drill with a carbide cutter, a high speed grinded(when I get Pissed) and a good olde fasion Rat Tailed file, trim the over lap left with a razor knife..... Several hours and a few bandaids for the less fortunate and yer done!!!!! MORE HORSE POWER



    #016...Belt Tensioner Reindexing!!!....This applies to the owners of the Vortech Superchargers.....if u have one, the belt SLIPS PEROID!
    The key to getting all the boost that the head unit is supposed to make is to ADVANCE the belt tensioner to the twelve o'clock position. If you look at the back of the tensioner, theres a tang that resides in a notch that positions the tensioner in the correct factory position, this will not hold the belt from slipping at boost cuz of the load of the blowers head unit. Watt you need to do is remove the bracket that holds the belt tensioner(BT) place it on the table so you can see the notch that the tang on the back of the BT rest in, now mark the twelve o'clock position, carefully measure and mark the notch needed for the tang in the new position, too the diegrinder(dremmel) cut the notch from the reverse side as you will have cut marks well passed the notch, a function of the thickness of the bracket and diameter of the cutting disc....
    You may also have to cut some of the BT housing away in order to rotate it backwards enough to slip on the belt......BE careful here if you still want all yer teeth.....about 4 to 5 hours and yer gonna SH!T YOUR PANTS when you drop the hammer!!!!

    First pic is the bracket:
    Next two show the position of the BT, you can see the scribe marks of the original notch as compared with the new Position notch
    This IS the biggest secret with this set up!!!!!


    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 06-25-2012 at 07:47 AM.
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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    For those of you that are seeing this for the first time...............it was posted on JU....then the Exodist......Wicked did a screen capture to preserve the thread and our good Davit1979/Ninergrad restored it to a sticky so "we" can continue.......I have a lot of new informatsia and some up dates I'll post when time is allowed..................I left the thread open so we can post and debate........HaveFun guys.............
    Prof. Wraith.


    #017 Battery-in-trunk.............
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    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Subscribed. Love this thread Rick, thanks for all the good info. I'm going to have to try some of this someday. I wish it wasn't winter right now lol

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    Subscribed. Love this thread Rick, thanks for all the good info. I'm going to have to try some of this someday. I wish it wasn't winter right now lol
    add the spacer ring to the K&N Fipak...............
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    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    add the spacer ring to the K&N Fipak...............
    Where does one get that airhat spacer? Can't seem to find it at the Summit Racing link you provided.

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #003 update:

    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...k%7cAsc&page=2

    search here......there is a metal one that fireheadman found, I don't have the link............................
    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...0spacers&dds=1








    Good hunting!!!!!
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    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    I'm guessing you would need a larger hood to accommodate those airhat spacers?

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    Ring, do you have a PN for the windage tray? I checked Summit and couldn't find anything for our application. Is this a difficult install, or is this something I'd be able to do in a few hours during an oil change?
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

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    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    There is an aluminum spacer that is really nice...

    STEFS Spacer... even has o-ring on top.. then use a nice K&N neoprene gasket on the bottom...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STF-72250/


    K&N
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-85-9988/


    FYI: I have used the Mr Gasket and other plastic spacers... they end up melting/deforming under the heat.... more so when you are SC'ing... the air charge is up to 280 degrees on a hot day if you do not have a intercooler of some sort.

    As for hood clearance... a 1/2 - 3/4 inch space will clear on a M1 intake with a F&B TB (my setup)... also using a procharger airhat. The spacer is required on this setup to eliminate the TB spring lever from hitting the airhat on WOT.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

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    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.9_Racer View Post
    There is an aluminum spacer that is really nice...

    STEFS Spacer... even has o-ring on top.. then use a nice K&N neoprene gasket on the bottom...
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STF-72250/


    K&N
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KNN-85-9988/


    FYI: I have used the Mr Gasket and other plastic spacers... they end up melting/deforming under the heat.... more so when you are SC'ing... the air charge is up to 280 degrees on a hot day if you do not have a intercooler of some sort.

    As for hood clearance... a 1/2 - 3/4 inch space will clear on a M1 intake with a F&B TB (my setup)... also using a procharger airhat. The spacer is required on this setup to eliminate the TB spring lever from hitting the airhat on WOT.

    Would that be compatible with a K&N intake? I'm having enough trouble trying to get mine to seat right down around the TB with just the gasket provided... maybe a spacer will help.

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    I'm guessing you would need a larger hood to accommodate those airhat spacers?
    Neative ghost rider, it will fit as long as you stay around 1/2" to 3/4....may have to trim out the hood sound/heat mat.
    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    Ring, do you have a PN for the windage tray? I checked Summit and couldn't find anything for our application. Is this a difficult install, or is this something I'd be able to do in a few hours during an oil change?
    Will post a link

    [QUOTE=Wrinklechops;35154][U]Would that be compatible with a K&N intake? I'm having enough trouble trying to get mine to seat right down around the TB with just the gasket provided... maybe a spacer will help.[/[/U]QUOTE]

    Welcome to the real world!!! I have had three so far and they all F-ed up!!!!
    They warp, and crack...the cracked ones K&N will replace(i had a Mopar Perf. one warp so bad I had to regrind the bottom mating surface and use a spacer ring, then I chucked that sh!t and went Hilborn)


    Fire thanx for the post, couldn't find it...........

    Mine never deformed at all and it was anchored with the ren. mount, tight!!!!
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 11-25-2009 at 06:51 AM.
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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    #011......Windage tray update:

    Pn. P4529790 is the part number for 360 stroke engines.....

    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...e%20tray&dds=1

    good hunting.........................................


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-32230/
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 11-25-2009 at 05:11 AM.
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    yumi meowMix BuckeyeRideR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    add the spacer ring to the K&N Fipak...............
    dang it, i read this a long time go and got a 1" spacer that absolutely will not work with the stock heat shield from kn. Maybe since i have it i'll attempt to cut it down some? that should be fun
    Captain Nate

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckeyeRideR View Post
    dang it, i read this a long time go and got a 1" spacer that absolutely will not work with the stock heat shield from kn. Maybe since i have it i'll attempt to cut it down some? that should be fun
    Watt U talkin bout willis??????

    U have to fab in these situations.......heat shield mounts, add 3/8 spacer nuts
    heat shield/tube mount.......add spacer/several places this can be done....
    Heat shield.....oblong the top of the penetration..........

    Remember that the CAI tube mounts to the TB that is mounted to the motor, the other stuff is mounted to the body.....can't U just feel the stupidity there?
    Us SCer guys share the good fortune of having it all mounted to the motor...
    Thats why I like Turbo's Cities' approach....for instance there CAI for 4.0L sick cylinders mounts only to the motor......and home brew systems can be fasioned in the same manner with some fab work..........



    SOME PICS:




    ^^^^^^^^^^hERES WATT IT IS BITICHES AND HOW TO PIPE IN real COLD AIR.

    lOOK AT THESE PICKS: You need to look at the right side of the shield, lower corner, You will see where I added a bracket to steady the shield that was spaced up............
    Second pic: look at the space around the shield with the tube in it....there is atleast 1/2 inch of extra clearence.......
    Sicum boys.......................




    Look at the space below the summit ig-nig box.....the shield in not spaced....now look at the upper right you can see a 3/8s space at the shield, to take advantage of that space, shim up on the tube support!

    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 11-25-2009 at 07:27 AM.
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    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    #011......Windage tray update:

    Pn. P4529790 is the part number for 360 stroke engines.....

    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...e%20tray&dds=1

    good hunting.........................................


    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-32230/

    This is what I am running... it is a scrapper/girdle, so does 2 things.... keeps the bottom end tighter and stops most twisting a stroker can potentially do. Next thing is does is scrap the excess oil from the rods as they nearly touch the girdle....Oh and it also converts to ARP main studs vs cap bolts, which are stronger!! Nice piece!

    http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...5&partid=23331


    ...And Yes, I am still using my stock pan, it did require a little notching at the maching shop to make this work... and the oil pump needed a tad of clearancing. The pan will be a PITA to put back on, so I recommend using a pan STUD kit for reinstall, this will eliminate any leaks and make a perfect seal with the MOPAR one piece gasket.
    Last edited by 5.9_Racer; 11-25-2009 at 08:38 AM.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

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    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    Would that be compatible with a K&N intake? I'm having enough trouble trying to get mine to seat right down around the TB with just the gasket provided... maybe a spacer will help.
    Collin, That gasket will work great on the K&N FIPK II setup. The neoprene can withstand more heat than a rubber gasket. And the aluminum riser is Trued and exact since it is CNC machined, you will like it.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  17. #17
    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    The Hughes crank gridle is the one that they tested and found an abnormally large increase in HP due to its ability to "scrape the crank".....and its the only one that will do so because the standard windage tray will not fit the stroker engines......................
    The windage tray in our engines keeps the "oil cloud" from forming and allows the oil collected on it to drain back to the sump.....the oil cloud is all the droplets of oil that the crank slams into, this causes a loss of HP.....I think some of the new Merc. engines eliminate the oil pan all together to stop that loss of power........last #s I read where north of 19hp at wot on a stock 360....something like 49hp on the 426 stroker...............

    Speedway Motors sells a superior carb. gasket, it is reinforced.......There is none better!!!!!
    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/high-p...irst_answer=33
    Last edited by RINGWRAITH; 11-27-2009 at 05:23 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    The Hughes crank gridle is the one that they tested and found an abnormally large increase in HP due to its ability to "scrape the crank".....and its the only one that will do so because the standard windage tray will not fit the stroker engines......................
    The windage tray in our engines keeps the "oil cloud" from forming and allows the oil collected on it to drain back to the sump.....the oil cloud is all the droplets of oil that the crank slams into, this causes a loss of HP.....I think so of the new Merc. engines eliminate the oil pan all together to stop that loss of power........last #s I read where north of 19hp at wot on a stock 360....something like 49hp on the 426 stroker...............

    Speedway Motors sells a superior carb. gasket, it is reinforced.......There is none better!!!!!
    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/high-p...irst_answer=33
    What types of gains are possible for the Hughes piece?

    If the windage tray is that much bang for the buck, why haven't I seen it put into use more frequently on Magnum motors? If it costs $100 between hardware and the piece, that's $5 per horse . . . an absolute steal! Not doubting you, but it almost seems too good to be true?
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

  19. #19
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    What types of gains are possible for the Hughes piece?

    If the windage tray is that much bang for the buck, why haven't I seen it put into use more frequently on Magnum motors? If it costs $100 between hardware and the piece, that's $5 per horse . . . an absolute steal! Not doubting you, but it almost seems too good to be true?
    Does 552hp sound good to you?... that's what I push off the dyno. Of course there are a lot of things on my engine... not a 360 anymore for starters. The hughes piece does seem like a lot more $$$... But take a step back and look at what you are investing in... ARP MAIN studs (++ just for that). Studs are always stronger and a better option on high performance engines, so you can't go wrong there. Next take look at how thick the girdle is and what it is doing.... In my application it is keeping the mains stabilized in my stroker... Its like having an insurance plan for my $1700 SCAT Forged crank and $~450 H-beam rods.

    There are a lot of things that come into play with vibration... My cam and valvetrain upgrades allow me to rev higher, I have an internally balanced engine now... vs externally balanced (stock). The HP increases are just a BONUS for me. The girdle keeps things in check on the higher RPMs.

    Here's a pic of it installed... Notice the oil pump is not installed yet. The girdle is about 1/4 - 3/8 think and is solid hardened steel.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

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    Sounds great. I'm not in a position to tell anyone that they're wrong, just curious as to why this isn't more frequently used.

    Again I raise my question of: Would I be able to do this in a couple hours during an oil change? If so, I'm all about $5 per horse.
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

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    yumi meowMix BuckeyeRideR's Avatar
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    Ring -thanks for the advice. i never even thought of that and its so easy. Will do. i swear everytime i read something you post its as if its coming from a jeep god, the one who knows all!
    Captain Nate

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    Banned Wrinklechops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5.9_Racer View Post
    Collin, That gasket will work great on the K&N FIPK II setup. The neoprene can withstand more heat than a rubber gasket. And the aluminum riser is Trued and exact since it is CNC machined, you will like it.
    So just to clarify, this:



    Will work with my K&N intake? And perhaps help it seat better anyways?

    I'm about to order it then

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by squashman702 View Post
    What types of gains are possible for the Hughes piece?

    If the windage tray is that much bang for the buck, why haven't I seen it put into use more frequently on Magnum motors? If it costs $100 between hardware and the piece, that's $5 per horse . . . an absolute steal! Not doubting you, but it almost seems too good to be true?
    ah...you haven't looked or studied enough!!!!!
    They where used widely on LA engines.\.....and came stock on some of them
    They where stock on 87 to 89 Magnums
    Mopar Perf. Speed Bulletins mentioned it
    Mopar Perf. Parts catalogs listed them
    I have read at least a dozen build articles about them
    Hughes has a tech blerb on them
    Its in all three build tech manuals I have....
    AND............................................... ...............I told U so! Dats da porpose of this thread!!!!!!
    Captain of the Nine

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    Last Shadow RINGWRAITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    So just to clarify, this:



    Will work with my K&N intake? And perhaps help it seat better anyways?

    I'm about to order it then
    Yepper!!! get the SW gasket too.
    Captain of the Nine

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    Quote Originally Posted by RINGWRAITH View Post
    ah...you haven't looked or studied enough!!!!!
    They where used widely on LA engines......and came stock on some of them
    They where stock on 87 to 89 Magnums
    Mopar Perf. Speed Bulletins mentioned it
    Mopar Perf. Parts catalogs listed them
    I have read at least a dozen build articles about them
    Hughes has a tech blerb on them
    Its in all three build tech manuals I have....
    AND............................................... ...............I told U so! Dats da porpose of this thread!!!!!!
    Haha good to know! Glad you could get me learned up!
    -Dave

    1998 GC Laredo SE/1998 Plat 5.9/1998 Plat 5.9/1994 Laredo 5 speed/1998 Slate 5.9- All sold/scrapped

    2004 BMW 330i ZHP- New DD

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