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  1. #376
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  2. #377
    RallyJeep GO
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    What brake setup is that? I'm guessing it's a kit for a WJ?
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  3. #378
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    Dang, Im not entirely sure what i just looked at. I see a lot of washers and some serious welding on cast iron.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  4. #379
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    Mitsubishi EVO 9.

  5. #380
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Wow - a lot of work but that looks like a pretty nice job!

    I assume the 'float' is handled by the pins through the pads themselves?

  6. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainNiner View Post
    So what's a fairly priced kit that's better than stock, but not as pricey as Vanco, but not cheap in quality? Really wasn't planning on buying new brakes just yet, but now that I'm driving it more, new brakes and tires have been moved to the top of the list lol.

    If there aren't any kits, what are good rotors, pads, etc to get? Would drilled/slotted be good if I'm just street driving it? No mountains or trails.



    Cheers



    Was this considered good? For $241 it doesn't seem bad..
    I've been running them for a few months now and it was definitely a great improvement over stock. So far, less dust as well. For the money, I can't complain about anything.

  7. #382
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    not sure if this has been posted. but someone figured how to put SRT brakes on a ZJ. It is actually uber cheap and in my area, the brake parts added all up would still be cheaper than 1 of the wheels you'd have to buy to fit over the new brake setup
    http://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogsp...-page.html?m=1
    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 318 V8 my "go-fast grocery getter"
    2001 Yamaha Raptor 660 "awesome quad"
    2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 supercharged "moms go-fast car"
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    1995 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.4 Dual Cam V6 "rare go-fast drag car"

  8. #383
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    well today I had to stop fast on the highway. scary. i can now say officially that these are awesome:

    http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-Big-Brake-Kits-15-16-Super-16-and-17_c84.htm

    i have the 16". worth every cent.
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  9. #384
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    Sweet thread, glad I stuck through all 16 pages. The last couple get very interesting.

    I'm a little confused though. The mustang gt rotors are 13.25" and sport trac at 12". But they both use Durango calipers that bolt directly to the early XJ knuckles? They don't mention using an adapter between the caliper and knuckle for the 13.25 rotors. Also, can anyone confirm if 13.25 rotors will fit with the 16" niner wheels?

  10. #385
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    13.25" rotors with 16" wheels is a no way. I'd say they'll need 17s at minimum, maybe 18s depending on the caliper setup.

    FWIW, I still haven't found a real need for bigger brakes on my niner. I'm running Carbotech AX6 pads on stock brakes and they're more than adequate. It takes a lot of heat to fade them and they've got more stopping power than my 240 treadwear (fairly sticky) 255s can use. It'll out-stop just about anything on all seasons at this point.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  11. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by THEhomelessONE View Post
    The mustang gt rotors are 13.25" and sport trac at 12". But they both use Durango calipers that bolt directly to the early XJ knuckles? They don't mention using an adapter between the caliper and knuckle for the 13.25 rotors.
    Yes, they need an adapter for larger rotors, but the point is the early XJ knuckles are much easier to adapt since the pad finger are bolted on with a wider and more common bolt hole spacing (5.5" IIRC). I think you could also run some after-market 4 or 6 piston calipers with a smaller rotor and no adapter.
    It also turns out there are early XJ knuckles that had ABS sensors. I have a set, but don't know if the sensor is directly compatible with ZJ ABS since I haven't installed them yet.
    Take a look at this page - lots of information that would apply to the early XJ swap options: http://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogsp...blog-page.html

  12. #387
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    Cool thanks I'll stick with the sport trac rotor setup then. Yeah my brakes work fine, I can get abs to kick in at highway speeds just barely on good 235/75/16's. But plan on 35's in the future. I doubt I need the larger rotors, don't ride my brakes down hills, just need the power for panic stops.

  13. #388
    Member JGC403's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    FWIW, I still haven't found a real need for bigger brakes on my niner. I'm running Carbotech AX6 pads on stock brakes and they're more than adequate. It takes a lot of heat to fade them and they've got more stopping power than my 240 treadwear (fairly sticky) 255s can use. It'll out-stop just about anything on all seasons at this point.
    Don't necessarily need the larger diameter rotors, but If the dual piston calipers would produce more clamping force that would be a great benefit. I can over power my stock brakes with the 408 and when you are trying to hold the Jeep back at the starting line, I'll take as much clamping force as I can get.
    No replacement for displacement!

    1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ZJ
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  14. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGC403 View Post
    If the dual piston calipers would produce more clamping force that would be a great benefit. I can over power my stock brakes with the 408 and when you are trying to hold the Jeep back at the starting line, I'll take as much clamping force as I can get.
    Dual pistons will have more clamping force as long as the combined area of the two pistons is more than the larger single piston.

    Regarding launching, I had this discussion with Jason Newman, because I 'felt' like I got better launches with brake-stall launching (holding the brake to build RPM), but he was getting documented better 1/4 mile times by 'flash stall" launches (just mashing the gas peddle w/o pre-revving). I did some research and found out why: Brake-stall loads the converter and holds the launch RPM LOWER. Flash-stall starts with an unloaded converter, so takes a split second to load the converter, and during that time the engine can run up to higher RPM than with brake-stall, giving more torque at launch.

    Because of the short time it takes to flash-stall the converter, you have to hit the gas just before the green light. Brake-stall is actually used to reduce torque at launch if you lose traction with flash-stall, so the best technique depends on whether you lose traction at launch. The equation might be different if peak torque is at a low RPM, like with the keg, so you need to experiment with both methods, and at different RPM brake-stall launches. Jason had an M1, and I had a keg, so this explained the different results. It would also be affected by the stall-speed of your torque converter - a lower stall-speed would favor flash-stall.

    If brake-stalling is best for your setup, another technique I read is to put the trans in neutral at the starting line, apply the brake hard, rev the motor to increase the vacuum power-assist to the brakes, drop back to idle while still holding the brake, shift in drive and rev to brake launch. This supposedly increases braking force so it will hold, and revving under load during brake-stalling does not make as much vacuum. I haven't tried it, but you'd want to practice ahead of time because you don't have much time to do it at the line. It might give you enough to hold your 408 without swapping brakes.

  15. #390
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    Aggressive pads (and getting them a little bit warm first) can make a big difference in holding power too. Or if you really want to experiment, swap the rear drums from an early ZJ. It'll still depend on brake shoe material, but typically drums are better at keeping an already-stopped wheel from rotating than discs are.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  16. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Aggressive pads (and getting them a little bit warm first)
    I thought about that, but it's pretty hard to get the pads warm at the strip - usually too much time sitting in line between runs, and they have to be pretty warm to make a difference. Interesting idea about the drums, if it's for strip only.

  17. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    I thought about that, but it's pretty hard to get the pads warm at the strip - usually too much time sitting in line between runs, and they have to be pretty warm to make a difference. Interesting idea about the drums, if it's for strip only.
    I'm having visions of sitting in the staging lanes with a generator and a heat gun (and a friend to drag it all out of the way)
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy 2.02 heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  18. #393
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    LOL - easier to just swap brakes!

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