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  1. #1
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    KOLAK EXHAUST WON'T FIT????? Am I supposed to cut it up? HELP PLEASE stuck at shop on a lift

    So I ordered his exhaust with magnaflow muffler/cat and am using a 2.5 to 3 adapter between the cat and exhaust manifold. Did you guys need to cut the exhaust to fit?

  2. #2
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    I had Kolak's exhaust installed along with a set of Thorley headers. No cutting was involved.

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    What muffler were you using? I'm using the large body magnaflow. I just got a tracking update from ups saying headers will be in tomorrow.

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    So I ended up bolting it in since I had to cut off my old exhaust but it's hanging quite low and rubbing against the gas tank shield. I think the stock manifolds are making everything point too far downwards. Headers should be in tomorrow and I'll try again next weekend. I'm using those flat band clamps everywhere. No welder and I'd like to be able to slip exhaust off easily if needed. Also the tailpipe extends too far to be able to attach an exhaust tip. The hanger is twisting the rubber bushing. Hopefully the headers will fix these issues. Glad I didn't cut up the exhaust.

    The exhaust is quieter now than stock with a leak between the cat and header. I was able to freely twist the stock exhaust. The large case magnaflow is perfect for me, quiet while still having a nice exhaust note. All deep notes, no higher raspy tones. Doesn't get much louder when on the gas at higher rpm's. If you like having an average aftermarket loudness/sound exhaust, the flowmasters Kolak recommend are the way to go.

    Performance is definitely better. I have 30" new destination AT tires and I can chirp them taking off. It's quicker now than when I had 28" tires. Short highway drive back home but almost 2 mpg better on the highway at my usual 65.

    I couldn't figure out which way to install the 45* pipe, shorter or longer end vertical? Tried every sensible combination. I'm thinking my next mod should be an SCT tuner.

  5. #5
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    The tailpipe is meant to be used without a tip, IIRC. If you put a tip on, you cut the tailpipe shorter to get the position right.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

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    I see thanks. Know if the outlet of your muffler is on the outer or inner side? I think stock it's on the inner and a pic I found online had it on the outer side of the jeep. Did you have any fitment issues when you installed your exhaust with the DT headers? Mine just came in today, they sure look sweet.

    How long do you think it'd take to install the headers? I have access to a lift and a shop but have to do it myself. Ordered an SCT tuner and that's all the modding I'll do until the Zcode TS kit comes out.
    Last edited by THEhomelessONE; 08-29-2016 at 06:34 PM.

  7. #7
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    Mine was pointing down as well, I put a piece with a slight bend in it between the y-pipe and cat to level it back out. I believe I've seen others on here say the same thing.
    04 WJ 4.7ho Ltd
    98 ZJ 5.2 Ltd

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    Thanks, I'll see how bad it looks once I get the headers on.

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    These ****ing headers are kicking my ass. I've been at the shop for almost 8 hours. The primary O2 is resting on the heat shield and driver side crossover pipe is resting on oil pan. This is without tightening up anything. I'm so ****ing tired but I need to finish this shit. It seems like my engine mounts may be causing the o2 issue. Should have been mentioned to make sure you have new mounts before installing our EXTREMELY tight fit headers.

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    Still here, now I have to drive home, open header, 2am. The cat is lined up under the transmission crossmember and won't fit. There needs to be a foot or so of piping with a slight angle to make this work. I don't understand how the kolak exhaust and dt headers are supposed to go together. I was trying to avoid going to a muffler shop since it's a huge pain when cat converters are involved.

    I regret getting the kolak exhaust, should've gone to an exhaust shop from the beginning. Hopefully I don't get pulled over and have my jeep towed away.

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    So I ended up using a straight 18" pipe after the header, to the cat, and the 45 degree kolak bend aimed before the rear tire. No exhaust shops were open today. Had to get my jeep on the road, very nervous of exhaust falling off since there's no hangers holding it, just a bunch of band clamps. The cat is resting against the heatshield of the jeep, hopefully it doesn't get too warm.

    It also feels like I've lost some power after the header install. Tried different canned tunes on SCT, the reg 91 felt better than 91 drag. Haven't tried tow or 93.

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    I feel your pain. The first time I had mine installed by meatheads, and they cut, welded, dented, and crimp-bent the tailpipe piece because they couldn't figure out how it was supposed to fit, and it still rattled on the body on both sides. I had to repurchase the tailpipe and took it elsewhere to reinstall. I didn't have welders then, and it cost me a ridiculous amount of money.

    But enough about my pain... don't know if you already got this sorted, but here's some tips:
    The CA bolt on the passenger side hits the collector on all DT headers- grab your saws-all and cut it shorter.
    Don't understand why the O2 in the Y pipe is hitting - maybe it was on mine too, and I just dented the heat-shield for clearance.
    As you discovered, the kit does not include a connector from the Y pipe to go over the trans cross member and to the cat. I had tube mandrel bent in a slight 'S' behind the cross member to lower the cat inlet about 1", which gave plenty of room above the cat body.
    The tailpipe is designed to have the muffler inlet in the center, exit offset on the passenger side. That gives the best angle for clearance over the axle.
    The over-axle hump has to be angled about 45 degrees or so to clear everything. Get it situated first without the angled muffler connector (it needs to be cut later) - the tailpipe shouldn't need cutting (except for the extra tailpipe length), don't cut anything between the bends. It WILL fit. If it's too close to something, try rotating it more than you think it should.
    Then cut the muffler-tailpipe connector to fit, then the tailpipe to desired length.
    One final tip- weld an extra tailpipe hangar near or on the CA mount behind the muffler to support the extra weight. This will keep the muffler outlet from cracking, and reduce movement of the whole exhaust.
    Last edited by carlmon; 09-08-2016 at 08:14 PM.

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    Hey Carlmon thanks for all the advice!! Muffler shops in CA won't touch aftermarket cats and finding someone is very difficult so I was planning on using clamps from the get-go. I was so damn tired that night and realized the o2 wouldn't clear after I had the headers bolted in. Ordered some new engine/trans mounts from Kolak, hopefully that will help me out. Worst case I'll use an air hammer and slam everything around the o2 to free up some space.

    I'm glad I didn't cut anything up, sorry to hear all the crap you had to go through too. Will definitely get some extra hangers on there. I'm so worried driving it as it is. Nothing holding the exhaust except band clamps I got from Summit. They haven't loosened up or shifted around, so far so good. Will head to an exhaust shop on Sat morning. No free time during the week unfortunately for me.

    I don't know whats going on but my jeep is slower with the headers than without. I've tried different canned tunes from hemifever. No idea if it's running rich or lean. I think my fuel pump may be on its way out. The check valve is having issues so it takes a couple tries for the jeep to start.

  15. #15
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    It was absolutely brutal getting my DT headers and Kolaks exhaust installed on my Jeep. I hardly ever drive this Jeep so that wasnt an issue for me, but I bet I took everything apart and put it back on at least 10 times. I was absolutely fed up with it and was getting ready to take it to a shop but I stepped back and let it sit for a month or so.

    You will have to cut a custom angle for the cat to line up to the DT headers. The DT headers are angled like that b/c the factory exhaust was angled like that to go up and over the cross member. Thankfully I have a welder so I just kept making slight angle changes till it all lined up perfect and tacked it in place. Removed the DT head adapter and welded it up.

    If you have any more questions Ive probably been through it. Those band clamps may or may not work. I bought a bunch of SS 3" band clamps from JEGS and they worked in some placed but not all of them. Ended up welded the DT header cross over pipe (it leaked with the band clamp), the outlet end of the muffler, and the pipe that crosses over the rear axle. Those all leaked or slipped with the band clamps.

    Make sure you have the muffler oriented correctly. The factory tail pipe comes out of the drivers side of the muffler while the kolak exhaust is setup to come out of the passenger side. That one threw me for a loop as it seems NO ONE makes mention of this....

    Youve got to cut the extra threads off that upper control arm bolt so they dont hit the headers.

    Sorry to hear that you bought a hemifever tune. Surprised that you didnt read all about FlyinRyan tunes on here or anywhere else for the matter. Hemifever is known to make poor tunes, kinda humorous that his tunes seem to make your Jeep slower.......

    See my thread here:

    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...er-Niner/page2
    Last edited by Jeepjeepster; 09-23-2016 at 11:08 AM.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  16. #16
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    Ya know I just don't get why you had to go through this giant hassle. I had my DTs, CAT and Kolak pipe installed without a hitch. It was straight forward and everything fit as it should. I did have to cut the control arm bolt shorter as it did clank a bit but that was the only issue. I should add that I blew out the Y pipe gasket but no biggie. It was replaced with a better one. Haven't had any problems.

  17. #17
    Member da ice man's Avatar
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    No problem at all with mine.
    1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Platinum. Mods: Rubicon Express 7"- 8" Long arm lift, JKS disco's, Martin Saine Transmission and low stall torque converter, NP242 with hack n tap, 30 tooth speedo gear, front and rear HD CV drive-lines, Yukon inner and outer 4340 axles with 297 u-joints, Brembo rotors n pads, Kevins Off-road Track Bar Conversion, Rancho 9000's, Spidertrax 1.5 wheel spacers, Toyo Open country MT LT285/70R-1810 127Q tires, 2007 18'' Dodge Charger rims, Brass Radiator, Stealth Conversions Coolant Sight Glass-Bleeder, 180 T-Stat, Lee Power Steering Pump with custom reservoir, Euro H4 glass Headlights with bypass electrical, Magnacore wire set, Brass cap n rotor, MSD Coil, Upgraded fuel injectors, DougThorley Headers, Kolak 3'' exhaust, Flomaster Super 44, Hi Flo Cat, insulated AEM CAI, welded plenum, New A/C compressor, evaporator, receiver tank, heater core and blower motor, Fresh Air intake bug screen for heater box, Dana 44 rear axle, Rear sway-bar delete, Spare tire delete, sensors deleted on rear hatch.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by da ice man View Post
    No problem at all with mine.
    7"+ lift might have something to do with that!
    The bottom line is it's not a 'bolt-in' kit, and if you're expecting and prepared for one, it is going to be a problem.
    It would be nice if Kolak's kit included a mandrel bent short piece to go over the trans mount cross member, but it doesn't, and he tells you that when you buy it.
    The DT header instructions actually mention cutting the CA bolt, but who reads the instructions? I read mine AFTER I cut the bolt!
    The tailpipe actually fits pretty well, but if you haven't seen one correctly installed and your Jeep isn't lifted, it's a bit of a Chinese puzzle figuring out how it's supposed to fit.

  19. #19
    Member da ice man's Avatar
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    Having a lifted 5.9 sometimes has its advantages
    1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Platinum. Mods: Rubicon Express 7"- 8" Long arm lift, JKS disco's, Martin Saine Transmission and low stall torque converter, NP242 with hack n tap, 30 tooth speedo gear, front and rear HD CV drive-lines, Yukon inner and outer 4340 axles with 297 u-joints, Brembo rotors n pads, Kevins Off-road Track Bar Conversion, Rancho 9000's, Spidertrax 1.5 wheel spacers, Toyo Open country MT LT285/70R-1810 127Q tires, 2007 18'' Dodge Charger rims, Brass Radiator, Stealth Conversions Coolant Sight Glass-Bleeder, 180 T-Stat, Lee Power Steering Pump with custom reservoir, Euro H4 glass Headlights with bypass electrical, Magnacore wire set, Brass cap n rotor, MSD Coil, Upgraded fuel injectors, DougThorley Headers, Kolak 3'' exhaust, Flomaster Super 44, Hi Flo Cat, insulated AEM CAI, welded plenum, New A/C compressor, evaporator, receiver tank, heater core and blower motor, Fresh Air intake bug screen for heater box, Dana 44 rear axle, Rear sway-bar delete, Spare tire delete, sensors deleted on rear hatch.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MexiJeeper View Post
    Ya know I just don't get why you had to go through this giant hassle. I had my DTs, CAT and Kolak pipe installed without a hitch. It was straight forward and everything fit as it should. I did have to cut the control arm bolt shorter as it did clank a bit but that was the only issue. I should add that I blew out the Y pipe gasket but no biggie. It was replaced with a better one. Haven't had any problems.
    Ive just never done exhaust and really didnt have the tools to do it. Laying on my back on the garage floor with just jack stands isnt the best situation. Plus that tail pipe isnt 100% correct IMHO. Headers went in without an issue, it was getting the pipe cut at the right angle and welded going over that transmission cross member and getting the tail pipe all lined out. And I was NOT taking it to a shop, people are idiots at shops.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  21. #21
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    Exhaust shop I went to had the tailpipe falling off after an hour of driving. $140 down the drain. I've been making slight adjustments and it still rattles like a mother****er. I'm losing my beans. Will stay quiet for 10 mins and go back to rattling as usual.

    Strange, all I've read is high praise about hemifever and how he has the best tunes for the magnums. But I read the same about flyinryan just not as often.

    The headers touch the oil pan and o2 sensor is bouncing off the frame of the car, both could have EASILY been taken into account. Doug Thorley can suck my nuts, I hope no one else buys his crooked ass headers. Absolutely ruined this Jeep for me. I'm a full time mechanic and even I'm considering paying someone to do the motor/trans mounts for me in hopes of getting rid of the noise. Have lost my patience.

    I think I'm going to stop putting money and time into this Jeep. She's got 175k miles and burns no oil. Just did 1000 miles and the oil level is still a millimeter from the max line. Have changed all fluids and I'm going to thrash it how it is until she dies.

    Next project will be a 2010+ X5M/X6M. Handles as well as a Porsche 911, can take it to Tahoe, and less than $5k gets you 850whp on rebuilt stock frame turbos. IE smog fags won't be able to notice anything different under the engine bay. Beats having to swap a supercharger out. I can't justify spending $8k+ for only around 550hp on the jeep.

    She's a fun daily driver, won't sell it, but I'm done trying to make it something she's not.

  22. #22
    RallyJeep GO
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    Hemifever was considered good stuff way back in the day, but others (like Ryan) have gotten better and figured more stuff out in recent years and can do more than he ever did.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

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