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  1. #1
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    time for a shift kit?

    Hi guys,
    i tryed the research button, but did not find answers...sorry

    so...sometimes, after some abuse, my tranny will not shift properly. especially from 2nd to 3rd.
    if i'm redlining the jeep, the tranny shifts fine. but after the abuse seems "slow" during the shifting and it slips...it's like it's putting N instead of 3rd. it takes some attempts to put 3rd gear.
    so i'm thinking that the pressure solenoid it's dying.
    my fluid also looks like shi*, it's pink-ish instead of dark red.
    so i also have to change the fluid.
    since i have to take down the tranny pan, i'm thinking to install a shift kit.
    i'm not sure if it's a good idea to install a full manual conversion kit.
    and i don't know wich kit to choose,
    http://www.summitracing.com/int/sear...illocation=int
    any ideas?
    thanks

    ps: 1998 318, mods in signature
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  2. #2
    RallyJeep GO
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    Definitely skip the full manual valve body if you drive it on the street. Before spending the money on a shift kit, I'd start by dropping the pan, adjusting the bands, changing the filter and giving it some fresh fluid. No sense putting extra money into it if the trans turns out to be dying.

    Does it just wind up in 2nd until the rev limiter and not shift until you back off the throttle a bit, or does it try to shift at the right point and then slip out of gear?
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark 318 ita View Post
    so...sometimes, ...
    Trans rebuild manual has a symptom/problem matrix. I can summarize it for you: anything can cause anything else to partially or completely Not work.

    I installed this

    http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/46rhshiftcorrectionkit88to95.aspx

    as well as its 42RE equivalent, in my Dodge 42RE and Jeep 46RH. Definitely worth installing IMO. Subtle but noticeable difference shifting; more intuitive; sharper. When you see all the little replacement parts and springs in the box you'll realize the maker of these kits put a lot of thought into it. Phone number in the kit -- good phone support.

    Now having done two of these trans my own thinking is:

    if there is _anything_ at all wrong with the transmission I would pull the whole thing out and take it apart and inspect it down to the last circlip. You may have to replace very little, but it's virtually impossible to say what. Guy at Cascade said that inspection was the most important part of the trans rebuild. Now I believe him.

    The reason is that small things can domino ==> a warn bushing can cause low pressure, cross-leaking, or metal bits. Metal bits can cause stuck valves. Metal bits can cause a clogged cooler, low pressure, overheating, etc. Pressure problems can cause general weirdness.

    An old valve body on these torqflights is sure to have a broken 2-3 accumulator spring -- more metal bits everywhere

    Replacing the electronics should be done as a matter of course -- no way to test them under heat and load.

    list of tools here:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/42re-rebuild-direct-drum-bushing-tips-dodge-jeep-3457562/

    I'll do a build thread of the 46RH if you need it. I still have all the pics.

    What is the history of your trans?
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  4. #4
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    thanks for the help
    history is: 235000km, and never rebuilt as far as i know. about 40000km ago i had some shifting issues and i installed a kit very similar to this http://www.cascadetransmissionparts....cekit9899.aspx
    i don't remember if it was exactly the same, but that's it more or less.

    sounds good to drop the pan to see if there's any sand or emery attached to the magnet...will do as soon as possible.

    and i'm not understanding this line :" Does it just wind up in 2nd until the rev limiter and not shift until you back off the throttle a bit, or does it try to shift at the right point and then slip out of gear?"
    if 'im understading properly: it revs but it does not put the gear. it goes out of 2nd, it goes in N, and it stays in N. after a couple of attempts it puts 3rd.
    i don't think it slips out of 3rd. it slips out of 2nd, but it doesn't go in 3rd.

    honestly pulling the tranny out of it it's very hard, my mechaninc won't do it unless it's totally broken...
    all that i can do is to pull the pan off to see if there are any pieces in it.

    don't worry about that build just for me, don't want to make you lose time, thanks anyway

    i was looking at this
    http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/42re44reshiftcorrectionkit92to98.aspx

    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

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    are you saying that this is a 42RE/RH? Isn't the 5.2l supposed to have a 46?

    is this is the same jeep that is vibrating?
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  6. #6
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    i suppose it's a 44re becasue jeep is 1998.

    yes it is the same, i'm always having an issue lol
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  7. #7
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    Yup, should be a 44RE in a 98 5.2. The 42 and 44 are fairly similar though (both based on the 904 torqueflite), the 44 is just the beefier version. They're both a little different from the 46 (727 based), but as far as figuring out what's wrong with one, they all operate very similarly (for the RE versions, RH versions don't have the electronic governor setup).
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  8. #8
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    Ok, do this:

    1. buy the tools listed in my build thread above. Plus FSM.
    2. pull out the transmission.
    3. clean the outside.
    4. take it all apart.
    5. inspect all the parts. Ship me the parts where you can't replace the bushings yourself -- those parts are small to ship. I can do the bushings in a few minutes. Otherwise use a machine shop.
    6. Replace the torque converter and all the parts listed in my build thread.

    Then you will have a better-than-new transmission. It will last for 200,000 km.


    About the stroker: I used bosch 0280155715 injectors. i made no other changes to the fuel system. Here is the piston machining:

    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...pression-Ratio
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  9. #9
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    thanks for the infos,
    next week i hope to my mechanic, i'll keep you updated

    ps: last question about the stroker i promise
    where did you get the parts? got a link?
    thanks
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  10. #10
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Mark 318 ita;155415].................and i'm not understanding this line :" Does it just wind up in 2nd until the rev limiter and not shift until you back off the throttle a bit, or does it try to shift at the right point and then slip out of gear?" ...../QUOTE]


    Not to put words in his mouth but I think what Rob is (maybe, lol) getting at here is figuring out if it could be a dropped band anchor versus one of several other problems.

    The clutch bands are held in place by the apply piston on one side and the 'strut' or 'anchor band' on the other side - the anchor band sits on the threaded screw thingy that's the adjuster. If you're not familiar with the setup, one way to look at it is like the Greek Omega symbol (I think that's the right one, round with the two horizontal bars at the bottom? lol) The round top part is the band, the bottom legs of the symbol are roughly equivalent to the piston on one side and the band anchor on the other side.

    On the 46's at least, the band anchors are known to fall out! I'm not sure if that's due to wear or improper adjustment from the factory - but it's a known problem on Jeeps and Dodges with the 46RE. Not super common - but not exactly rare either.
    So I'm guessing the 44s could be susceptible to that too.
    Not 100% sure but I think that tends to be an RE thing as I haven't heard too much about that happening on the RHs.

    The symptom sounds a bit like what you're describing - if you floor it, when it hits second it's like the tranny went into neutral and the engine just revs like crazy. It won't do anything until you come way back on the gas, at which point it finds third gear and is back to normal.
    Honestly, when I had that on my white 5.9 that I pretty much just DD'd and didn't drive hard at all, it took me a while to notice it. Seems like in normal driving accelerating from a stop without a lot of gas pedal the thing just finds third gear and there's only a barely noticeable slip in there.
    I figured it was rebuild time, but decided to pull the pan off and look at it anyway. Was poking around and noticed a piece of metal on top of the front of the valve body. From the angle and direction it just didn't look like it should be there, so I pushed it with something and realized it was loose and from there I figured out what it was. Honestly I'm surprised I even saw it up there!

    In my case there was almost no material in the pan and the anchor was still good, so I was able to fish it out and reinstall it (had to drop the VB IIRC) but I guess it's pretty common for the band to be worn out, and/or for the anchor band itself to be bent or cracked or whatever.




    Quote Originally Posted by paulsheer View Post
    are you saying that this is a 42RE/RH? Isn't the 5.2l supposed to have a 46? .......?

    Ya, as said above - the early OBD1 5.2 ZJs used the 46RH. For whatever reason, with 1996/OBD2 they went to the 904 based 44RE for the 5.2s and only used the 46RE behind the 5.9s. (So our Jeep 46REs with the right side starter pocket were produced for that one year only! )

    That's on our Jeeps. Total guess but I'm figuring Dodge did roughly the same thing, although they may have offered 46REs on heavier duty 5.2 trucks maybe? Not sure what the 3.9 V6s used - 44RE or maybe they did use a 42? If not, I don't think the 42 was made with a Magnum bellhousing pattern.


    Like I've said before, the 44REs and 46REs are interchangeable in our Jeeps - but they each need their proper dipstick, tube, and torque converter. They're easily identifiable by the squarer pan of the 44 versus how the 46 pan kicks out near the dipstick tube - but without seeing that, if you drove a ZJ with the "wrong" tranny you probably wouldn't know it unless your butt is sensitive to the minor gearing differences.


    My mongrel-ass 93 ZJ is an all OBD2 5.9 but with the 44RE. I find it drives pretty nice

  11. #11
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    IIRC, the 5.2 Rams got 46s. Not sure if the Dakota and Durango got the 44 or 46. 3.9s all got the 42 like the Jeep 4.0s.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark 318 ita View Post
    thanks for the infos,
    next week i hope to my mechanic, i'll keep you updated

    ps: last question about the stroker i promise
    where did you get the parts? got a link?
    thanks

    If you are not going to rebuild it yourself, then a remanufactured transmission is your best bet. watch this video:

    https://youtu.be/ZPDXLR2q_fs

    -- i don't know this company, but there are many companies to choose from.


    my parts list

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jyhAwrgDAueXgkxUJeH9P6DeC2kMT5R-aUkgTCg4Yrw

    bearing discussion:

    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread.php?12724-Plastigauge-says-clearance-too-large-on-New-crankshaft


    ---

    When your car is out of your site at a mechanic, it's just like selling it to him and then buying it back at a higher price when he is done with it. There is no difference.
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  13. #13
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    @John : nope, probably i misexplained myself, it's exactly the opposite: during the abuse it shifts fine. after the abus, so during normal driving, i has troubles during the shifting. but this happens only during the first couple of attempts. after it grabs the proper gear it shifts fine again, even during normal driving.
    so, just to try to explain myslef, making an example:
    1) before the race i usually drive around to get the car warm, and the tranny shifts fine;
    2) i drag race, and the tranny shifts fine during the race;
    3) AFTER the race the tranny takes a couple of attempts to put 3rd gear. it puts N instead of 3rd a couple of times;
    4) after it grabs the gear properly, it shifts fine again.


    @Paul: you certainly have a point there, but speaking honestly i don't have the skill to do something like this
    Last edited by Mark 318 ita; 11-24-2015 at 04:12 AM.
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  14. #14
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    in the end i just ordered atf mopar fluid, new tranny filter, new tranny seal and the shift kit!
    i got the one linked by Paul.
    i thought that is cheaper to pull the tranny pan one time only, and if i see that i have a lot of emery or pieces i'll just sell the shift kit itself.

    i'll keep you guys updated
    thanks for the advices
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  15. #15
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    so...got this today
    Cattura.jpg
    i tryed to give a look at the instructions, seems way more complicated than i expected.
    so question is, do you guys have any tips or pics to help me out (pics would be perfect)?
    thanks
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  16. #16
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    hi guys,
    today i took an appointment with mechanich for tomorrow morning...
    i hope he can pull this off.
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  17. #17
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    today we changed fluid, filter and seal.
    good news is that we found little emery and no broken pieces in the pan (me and the machainch were expecting way worse)...so looks like the tranny ain't dying after all.
    Bad news is that we had not enough time to install the shift kit.

    btw even with new fluid tranny still have that issue.
    Last edited by Mark 318 ita; 01-17-2016 at 12:57 AM.
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  18. #18
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    Mark,

    I think everything I say here below still stands.


    Quote Originally Posted by paulsheer View Post
    Trans rebuild manual has a symptom/problem matrix. I can summarize it for you: anything can cause anything else to partially or completely Not work.

    I installed this

    http://www.cascadetransmissionparts....kit88to95.aspx

    as well as its 42RE equivalent, in my Dodge 42RE and Jeep 46RH. Definitely worth installing IMO. Subtle but noticeable difference shifting; more intuitive; sharper. When you see all the little replacement parts and springs in the box you'll realize the maker of these kits put a lot of thought into it. Phone number in the kit -- good phone support.

    Now having done two of these trans my own thinking is:

    if there is _anything_ at all wrong with the transmission I would pull the whole thing out and take it apart and inspect it down to the last circlip. You may have to replace very little, but it's virtually impossible to say what. Guy at Cascade said that inspection was the most important part of the trans rebuild. Now I believe him.

    The reason is that small things can domino ==> a warn bushing can cause low pressure, cross-leaking, or metal bits. Metal bits can cause stuck valves. Metal bits can cause a clogged cooler, low pressure, overheating, etc. Pressure problems can cause general weirdness.

    An old valve body on these torqflights is sure to have a broken 2-3 accumulator spring -- more metal bits everywhere

    Replacing the electronics should be done as a matter of course -- no way to test them under heat and load.

    list of tools here:

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/4...-jeep-3457562/

    I'll do a build thread of the 46RH if you need it. I still have all the pics.

    What is the history of your trans?
    1993 ZJ 5.2L stroked to 349 ci. HS 1.7. 242 swap. 46RH shift kit with custom clutch packs, deep dish alum pan. 3" cat back. 16x10 rims. 31" tires. 2" lift. Vanco 16" brakes. Teraflex stabilizer. Alum rad + Flex-a-lite 180KS elec fan. 180tstat. Mopar Performance PCM 04798180 / P5249518. WJ 1.25" sway bar.

  19. #19
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    John, is this the bands adjustment you were talking about in post #10
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7_Do8JQWJ8
    ?
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
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  20. #20
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Sorry Mark - didn't see this til just now.


    Yes, those are the adjustments I was talking about.


    That vid shows a torx on the front band but I'm pretty sure ours all have a hex head on both, at least that's the way mine was.

    Seems like the one in the vid had a lot of play in the front band - but that might have just been rebuilt or some tranny they use for demos or whatever.


    As he shows here the adjustments aren't super difficult to do, but on our ZJs it's a pretty tight area since you have the driveshaft, shift cable, and transmission oil lines all within the confines of the tunnel, so it can be a bit hard getting to that front band and doing the torque if you don't have the right tools.
    Take a look at it and/or give it a try, but you might want to have your mechanic or tranny guy do it

  21. #21
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    no problem, thanks for the answer.

    the only thing that worries me is that my tranny guy told me that is not a good thing to do band adjustments on an old tranny (160000 miles).
    i'm not sure why though
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  22. #22
    RallyJeep GO
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    Any trans guy that says touching the bands or fluid on an old trans is a bad idea is dumb. It's an old wives tale spread by shops who had too many people show up with dying transmissions, and then blamed the shop when it was still slipping after a fluid change or adjustment.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  23. #23
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark 318 ita View Post
    ....my tranny guy told me that is not a good thing to do band adjustments on an old tranny ....

    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    Any trans guy that says touching the bands or fluid on an old trans is a bad idea is dumb. It's an old wives tale spread by shops who had too many people show up with dying transmissions, and then blamed the shop when it was still slipping after a fluid change or adjustment.

    That sounds about right.


    Hopefully Mark, your guy should trust you enough to know that you know and understand the realities of the situation and that you trust him. (assuming he knows what he's doing, lol)

    Either the tranny has life left in it or it doesn't - but if you don't adjust the bands then they're probably going to wear out sooner.


    On that note - you've probably already seen this info posted before but don't let anyone talk you into a reverse flush on these - just do straight fluid and filter changes. Flushes can loosen internal "plaque" and debris which then finds it's way into various valves and ports and other places where you don't want it to be, lol.
    Last edited by Z88Z; 05-17-2016 at 10:03 AM.

  24. #24
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    10.4 thanks guys

    edit: do you guys know where i can find a schematic of the 44re and especially the valve body?
    thanks again
    Last edited by Mark 318 ita; 05-16-2016 at 02:28 PM.
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  25. #25
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Hi guys,
    I'm sorry, another question came in my mind, should I torque the bands to factory rating or something else?
    thanks
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap,dana30hp swap,aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

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