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  1. #1
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    E-Fan useful diagrams and pictures

    Some useful diagrams and pix for e-fan mods and conversions. Not mine.

    6078587517_4d9afb099d_b.jpg 6079127026_d37dcde3f7_b.jpg 6090302177_2e9e793639_o.jpg 6091147192_d46acbbf65_b.jpg
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  2. #2
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
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  3. #3
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Not sure if this is the same resource (a lot of pics are similar) but here is the whole Flickr folder which has a LOT of useful pictures and diagrams: https://www.flickr.com/photos/401092...7620884087193/
    - Sandy

  4. #4
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Good stuff Eddie and Sandy.

    I may eventually incorporate that stuff (with credit of course) into my thread when I get around to doing my "Efan swap into a non Efan ZJ" thread.

    Just gotta get started on it....

  5. #5
    Member csouers's Avatar
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    Very nice. Hopefully this helps the less electrically inclined.

  6. #6
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    Dear Sirs,

    My name is Chris, I live in France and I have a Niner as dailydriver. Your forum is a great source for our machines. Thank you for all these informations and feedback.
    I am preparing a photo report about my WJ front end conversion.

    About efan, now:
    I would like to replace the 2 water temp sending units which are located on the upper and lower radiator hoses.
    I can't find these sensors neither at Rockauto nor on eBay.

    Do you know where I can purchase these parts?

    Thanks a lot in advance.
    Last edited by Threesixty; 05-14-2015 at 12:02 PM.

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  8. #8
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    Thanks. I have allready seen this topic. Very usefull altenative solution.
    But isn't there any way to buy OEM model sensors ?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Threesixty View Post
    Thanks. I have allready seen this topic. Very usefull altenative solution.
    But isn't there any way to buy OEM model sensors ?
    Nope. If there was, nobody would have been looking for an alternative, or hoarding them from junkyards.

    You can buy used ones from hoarders and junk yards, but they don't always work since it's a used electrical part. There is no OEM source or direct aftermarket equivalent.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    Nope. If there was, nobody would have been looking for an alternative, or hoarding them from junkyards.
    You can buy used ones from hoarders and junk yards, but they don't always work since it's a used electrical part. There is no OEM source or direct aftermarket equivalent.
    As mentioned in the link posted above, there are aftermarket SWITCHES that will work, just not a direct fit for the electric connectors. Keep in mind these are not temp sensors - they are thermal switches.
    I had planned on installing lower temp switches for my e-fan after I put my 180 degree thermostat in last Fall, but I'm waiting to see how the stock ones do once hot weather arrives. Here's what I was going to get: http://www.ebay.com/itm/111180944606 Keep in mind these are cooler than stock, so if you're running stock thermostat your fan would run all the time with these. What I liked about these is they have two spade terminals, so the electric connection is cleaner. I don't know if they make stock temp ones, but you could check with Painless Performance.

    Also, I didn't finish my research into it, but I believe GM used the exact 5.9 stock switches in the late 90's for some of their cars with e-fans, so if you're looking for stock temp you might start there - they might even have new ones available that would be a direct fit for us.
    Last edited by carlmon; 05-15-2015 at 09:16 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    Also, I didn't finish my research into it, but I believe GM used the exact 5.9 stock switches in the late 90's for some of their cars with e-fans, so if you're looking for stock temp you might start there - they might even have new ones available that would be a direct fit for us.
    We've been through that in the longer thread here on TSF regarding the e-fan. The GM product that is a direct plug-and-play is a variable resistance thermistor (a sensor) rather than an actual switch. It'll turn the fan on at a reasonable temperature, but the consensus is that it won't turn off until you're down at like 165.

    x10radsponge and ZJ-John confirmed a plug-and-play pigtail connector:
    http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=575

    - - - Updated - - -

    Here's the longer thread:
    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...-switch/page15

  12. #12
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    Thanks- didn't realize it was a sensor, or that others had looked into it. So we're down to aftermarket solutions.

  13. #13
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    Thank you sirs. I am running a 180 thermostat to.

    Your link to eBay is very interesting but USD49 each is particulatly high for a simple try.

    Why is there 2 switches instead of only one on our 5.9?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Threesixty View Post
    Thank you sirs. I am running a 180 thermostat to.

    Your link to eBay is very interesting but USD49 each is particulatly high for a simple try.

    Why is there 2 switches instead of only one on our 5.9?
    The fan is two-speed - the top switch turns on the low speed motor coils, the bottom one the high speed.
    Even though both switches operate at the same temps, the lower one is exposed to lower water temps as it comes out of the radiator. The top ones switches on earlier because it is exposed to the hottest water coming from the motor.

    You could run a higher temp switch than the 195-on 185-off (like in the ebay link) with a 180 thermostat, but you wouldn't want to run a colder switch because once it got to operating temp the fan would run constantly. A higher temp switch would allow the temp to stay above the thermostat temp on hot days, so you would lose some of the advantages of the lower temp when you want it most. I've been running the 180 thermostat with the stock temp switches for about 10 months, and I don't think either fan speed has switched on yet- but no really hot days yet. If it goes too high when the weather warms up (I expect it will), I'll try changing just the upper switch to the 195/185 one, and leave the lower one stock as an emergency overheating preventer only - so this is one way to save $49 over replacing both.

    Just looked back at your original question... WHY do you want to replace your switches? Are you certain they need to be replaced? If it's because your fan isn't running it's more likely the motor than the switches. The easy test is turn the ignition to run position (engine doesn't have to be running), pull the connector off the upper switch, and put a jumper across the connector (you can use a paperclip stuck in the holes). If the fan doesn't start it's not the switches, but is almost certainly the fan motor. If that's the case, we can help you with that too. You will still probably want a lower temp upper switch as I will.
    Last edited by carlmon; 05-17-2015 at 01:48 PM.

  15. #15
    RallyJeep GO
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    IMO, for best fan operation, the fan should turn on around 20* above t-stat temp (around 200* for a 180* t-stat) and turn off about 5 degrees below that. If the turn-off point is too close to the t-stat temp, the fan may not ever shut off in really hot weather. Plus, the smaller temperature swings are kinder to the engine.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    Just looked back at your original question... WHY do you want to replace your switches? Are you certain they need to be replaced? If it's because your fan isn't running it's more likely the motor than the switches. The easy test is turn the ignition to run position (engine doesn't have to be running), pull the connector off the upper switch, and put a jumper across the connector (you can use a paperclip stuck in the holes). If the fan doesn't start it's not the switches, but is almost certainly the fan motor. If that's the case, we can help you with that too. You will still probably want a lower temp upper switch as I will.
    Thank you very much for your explainations. All is clear for me now.

    I wanted tu replace the switches because I would prefer to have all new sensors and switches on my ZJ.
    Particularly about cooling system.

    Last owner already replaced the motor and it works perfectly. (I don't know how he could find a new one but the fact is that it's stock model and looks new..)

    Ok I will stact by replacing only the upper switch with the Becool one @ Jegs.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    IMO, for best fan operation, the fan should turn on around 20* above t-stat temp (around 200* for a 180* t-stat) and turn off about 5 degrees below that. If the turn-off point is too close to the t-stat temp, the fan may not ever shut off in really hot weather. Plus, the smaller temperature swings are kinder to the engine.
    Agreed- that 195/185 is the closest one I could find to 180 thermostat - whether it shuts off reliably at 185 depends on the accuracy of the switch and thermostat. A little more spread would ensure reliable shut-off, but would also give more temp swing.
    You can also test the temp switch and thermostat together in a pan of hot water on the stove. As hot water cools down make sure the switch opens before the thermostat closes. If you want to get fancy, use a thermometer to measure the spread. If the closing spread is really 5 degrees it should be good, and give small temp swings and a happy motor - if not I can return the clean switch and get a different one.

  18. #18
    RallyJeep GO
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    IMO, 195/190 or 200/195 or 200/190 would be better.
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    IMO, 195/190 or 200/195 or 200/190 would be better.
    Who makes that 195/190? - that would work for me.

  20. #20
    RallyJeep GO
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    I have no idea who makes one, unfortunately. I gave up on the t-fitting switches and am just running a controller (Dakota Digital PAC-2750) with a single sensor to trigger both speeds (adjustable set points). The sensor could go in the upper t-fitting, but I had an extra sensor port in my intake manifold (airgap) and put the sensor there (so I can remove the t-fittings at some point).
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

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