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  1. #1
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    5.9 Header install questions

    Hello everyone, first time posting here. Pickeed up a 5.9 GC last year and not finally getting the time to do some work on it and and some performance mods. Picked up a complete exhaust system with headers from Kolak and getting ready to install it. I know this has been done numours times on this forum, but I do not see any search function to look up any threads that people have started on installing the headers. Anyone guide me to threads that go throungh the installation process. Looks pretty straight foward as long as the bolts don't break. Main concern is that they use studs to bolt the stock manifolds on. Is there an easy way to remove the studs from the block so I can use the header bolts?

  2. #2
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    Use any stud remover to remove the studs from the cylinder heads. You can use two nuts method or this http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...et/391368_0_0/
    Last edited by MonaDeRio; 01-17-2015 at 05:42 PM.
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  3. #3
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Get some Kroil. Soakem down and dont rush.

  4. #4
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Penetrating oil is definitely a good call.

    Strangely, for all the rusty New England crap I've had to deal with - I always had good luck with the exhaust manifold studs and bolts for some reason. I think McCloud had a few break though, so caution patience and oil are the name of the game.

    On some of mine, even trying to undo the smaller nuts that hold the heat shield onto the studs - it would unscrew the whole stud out of the head instead of breaking the smaller nut loose. That's great, but it makes things messy if you were trying to save the heat shields for some reason.

    FYI, all that really depends on where you live and the condition of your heat shields and nuts though. Sometimes the heat shield corrodes right around the nut and it really isn't attached anymore which makes things easy, or the nuts might not have a tight grip on the heat shield and will spin inside it. Also easy.

    Later ZJs used a really soft tin for the heat shields so you can usually bend them to get behind them and put a wrench on the bigger stud nut if you need to, or if you don't care about the heat shields sometimes they can be torn right off - be VERY CAREFUL OF THE SHARP EDGES THOUGH! Earlier ZJs used a heavy sheetmetal for the shields and that stuff don't bend good! LOL

    On a few occasions I've had the hardware corroded to the point where I had to step down to the next smallest 'wrong' size wrench of socket to get a tight grip so I didn't round anything off. I don't remember exactly but I think they're supposed to be 13mm or 1/2inch, and I ended up using a 12mm to get a solid hold on it, maybe even having to tap it on with a hammer to get it to fit. Anything's better than rounding it off.

    I had a lot more problems on the downpipe hardware than on the manifold stuff. They have built in tabs to hold the hardware (nut I think?) from turning, but those usually broke off or smeared, and the flats were corroded so I had to hunt down whatever wrench or socket that would hold it tight - that's a real tight area to have to try and cut bolts etc if you don't have a torch.

    I always had good luck with the double nut method
    Last edited by Z88Z; 01-18-2015 at 09:06 AM.

  5. #5
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    Thanks everyone for your replies. Got lucky and all the bolts came out with ease. Have to studs that didn't come out on their own, but should be able to get them out without any issues

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