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  1. #1
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    Ron Davis radiators

    http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm

    Contacted with them for the Niner radiator,

    Here is the answer:

    1 Good afternoon Eddie. Your cost for the radiator is $749.36 and the shipping is estimated at 76.00.

    Thank You,

    Bill Williamson


    Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc.
    7334 North 108th Avenue
    Glendale, AZ. 85307
    Tel- 623-877-5000 Ext.16
    Fax- 623-877-5001
    bill@rondavisradiators.com
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  2. #2
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    Not cheap, but they do top notch work.

  3. #3
    Member ZJ-John's Avatar
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    Save yourself $600 and get a regular OE aftermarket like a Valeo.

    The Ron Davis has to be hands down the nicest looking aluminum radiator and probably worth every cent; but IMO it is totally overkill unless you were some hot shit Baja racer with deep pockets or a race sponsor.

    only thing you will get for that extra $600 is some bling no one will ever see.

  4. #4
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    Agreed Niner is not a hot rod for 20K-40K like we can see at Fast&Loud TV Show where they use only Ron Davis radiators..
    But anyway if someone offers me used for a good price I'll buy it.
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  5. #5
    Member ZJ-John's Avatar
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    That $600 would be better spent on AN fittings

  6. #6
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    AN fitting is all over in my engine compartment.
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  7. #7
    Member ZJ-John's Avatar
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    Those lil buggers add up quick!

    I have a new Valeo rad scheduled to show up tomorrow, I'll snap a few shots if you are interested.

  8. #8
    Eddie MonaDeRio's Avatar
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    Sure
    Here is the cheapest all aluminum http://www.ebay.com/itm/271736127013...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Last edited by MonaDeRio; 01-11-2015 at 11:51 PM.
    SCT X3. Custom cam. Crane gold race roller rockers. Fully ported 2.02 R/T heads.. Mike Leach Headers. Full 3" cat back exhaust. Custom full return fuel system. Aeromotive 340 in-tank fuel pump. Aeromotive dual port adjustable fuel regulator. Holley 2 x 52mm TB. High stall torque converter 2800 . 24# Bosch Ford Racing injectors. MSD ignition box and coil.

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  9. #9
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    I wouldn't touch that ebay radiator with a 10 ft stick. I don't know where they are made, but the welds are crap. They also like to leak.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverXJ View Post
    the welds are crap. They also like to leak.
    What, more than the ones with plastic tanks glued on?
    If it leaks when you get it, send it back for a replacement- if not, install it and you'll never see the crap welds again.
    It's just a radiator, not rocket surgery!

  11. #11
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    Oh yes, many of the people on the XJ forums tried the aluminum cheap rads on ebay. Many leaked. We aren't talking in 5 to 10 years, but with in a couple years or even right out of the box. Shitty welding is shitty welding. As for the palstic tanks glued on, the majority of vehicles have the plastic tanks that work for many years without issue.

  12. #12
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    I replaced cracked plastic ones on my 97 twice. My niner is still fine, but I'm running 180 degrees so it might last much longer- the plastic gets brittle with heat. I'm putting my cooling money toward an intercooler anyway, but if my rad cracks on my niner I wouldn't hesitate to get that cheap ebay one, spend $50 on preventative care to support it, and still pocket a couple hundred bucks over buying an prettier name-brand aluminum radiator.

    Many don't know that an all aluminum radiator takes extra care to prevent internal corrosion, including rad caps with zink anodes (like on marine heat exchangers), only filling with distilled water and antifreeze and flushing more than the recommended maintenance schedule, and making sure all ground straps are corrosion free and make good contact. Some antifreeze additives also help protect the aluminum. A more expensive one will last longer because of thicker and possibly better alloy, but without the proper precautions it will corrode inside just the same. Aluminum is more efficient at heat transfer than brass and plastic, so it can perform better- it just takes extra care as most performance modifications do. Similar precautions should be take for aluminum heads too...

    I suspect the trouble the XJ guys had was due to lack of proper care, not just crap welds.

    Some good info for aluminum radiator care at http://voltagedrop.biz/

  13. #13
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    I suspect the trouble the XJ guys had was due to lack of proper care, not just crap welds.
    No. What proper care do you need after two weeks? Some of those people I know personally and they take very good care of their XJ's maintenance. Which part can you not understand that those cheap ebay radiators are nothing but complete shit? You really think you will get quality that will last at those prices? I have a bridge to sell you in that case.

  14. #14
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Another big factor to the cheaper radiators are the cores. If they are China junk then it doesn't matter what the welds are like. A cheap core is a cheap core and is more likely to burst at the seams.
    - Sandy

  15. #15
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    My radiator for Radiatorexpress looks just like the photo on the ebay one. No issues here. knock knock...

  16. #16
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZJ-John View Post
    Those lil buggers add up quick!

    I have a new Valeo rad scheduled to show up tomorrow, I'll snap a few shots if you are interested.
    I would be interested as the Valeo ones I found on eBay have plastic end tanks.
    - Sandy

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverXJ View Post
    No. What proper care do you need after two weeks? Some of those people I know personally and they take very good care of their XJ's maintenance. Which part can you not understand that those cheap ebay radiators are nothing but complete shit? You really think you will get quality that will last at those prices? I have a bridge to sell you in that case.
    I'm not shopping for a bridge either, or that would be really tempting. Didn't mean to disparage XJ guys, but when you said they were going bad after two years (not two weeks), it sounded like corrosion failure to me... my bad. I'm sure all those guys had zinc anode caps as they should.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    My radiator for Radiatorexpress looks just like the photo on the ebay one. No issues here. knock knock...
    Ditto.

    Ours is a name-brand SILLA radiator too, ordered directly through SILLA via a friend with a shop whose account I set up. While the welds weren't TIG'd by a master-welder, they all look good. Some of them even actually look very good, while the others were just acceptable and probably done by the apprentice, but are clearly serviceable. No issues yet, and no overheating problems. I'm also happy to have ditched the plastic tanks.

  19. #19
    RallyJeep GO
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    I've been through a few radiators in my ZJ. Stock lasted 10 years, cheap parts store replacement lasted 1.5. Silla aluminum had cap sealing issues from day 1 and didn't cool well, didn't keep it long. Put in a Griffin all aluminum, made it through the 2 year warranty and then pinholed a weld (I've still got it, I'll probably grind it out and fix it someday). Got pissed and threw the cheapest ("Pro" branded) radiator on rockauto in there. 2 years and counting with no issue. If I buy another, it'll be the even more expensive Griffin that's much thicker and marketed for LS swaps in ZJs (should cool better than stock, it's identical except for being 2 rows of tubing that are only slightly smaller than the single row in the standard ZJ radiator).
    1998 ZJ 5.9 Limited - Deep Slate
    Mods: Big trans cooler, 231 swap, Indy MA-X heads prepped by IMM, Comp 20-744-9 cam, 1.7 HS roller rockers, 52mm TB, Airgap manifold, DT headers and full 3" exhaust, SCT tune homebrewed by me, Martin Saine valve body, B&M tranny pan, magic suspension made from unicorn tears, power steering cooler, lots of lighting mods

  20. #20
    Member ZJ-John's Avatar
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    Well, don't order a radiator from Amazon...









    The box Amazon shipped the radiator in was not sufficient for shipping, more just sitting on a shelf in a parts store box.

    The radiator should have come with brass fittings; I found the plastic bag in the box, the fittings must have escaped through one of the three gapping holes made buy the rad during shipping.

    Amazon gave me the option of a 40% refund or send it back for a full refund or replacement. i took the 40% and i will put that $ towards some hammers and dollies to reform the messed up tabs.

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