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  1. #1
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    Wiring Aux. HID Driving Lights

    I bought a set of these HID driving lights to mount on my front brush guard:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/281385465785...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    I also purchased a relayed wiring harness:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/171376370632...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    Heres the question. Is there any reason I can't wire the harness to the OEM fog light circuit. That way when I push the stock switch for the fogs the HIDs will light up as well. If this is doable then I will be able to eliminate one additional add on switch. What say you?

    PS R.I.P. Joe Cocker!

  2. #2
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    I just went through this dilemma wiring up aftermarket fogs. If you use the OEM fog light circuit/switch then the lights will shut off with high beams and you can't work the fogs independently from your headlamps since the BCM controls it. It also has a safety mechanism so when your Jeep shuts off, so do the lights. If you are OK with that then there should be no issue using the fog lights switch as your relay mechanism to flip on the driving lights. Of course, you can bypass the BCM and there are a few write ups on here how to do that with an additional relay.
    - Sandy

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    I just went through this dilemma wiring up aftermarket fogs. If you use the OEM fog light circuit/switch then the lights will shut off with high beams and you can't work the fogs independently from your headlamps since the BCM controls it. It also has a safety mechanism so when your Jeep shuts off, so do the lights. If you are OK with that then there should be no issue using the fog lights switch as your relay mechanism to flip on the driving lights. Of course, you can bypass the BCM and there are a few write ups on here how to do that with an additional relay.
    Sandra you are spot on! I totally forgot about the OEM fogs shutting down when the brights are on. I almost never use the high beam but there are those rare times I do. With my new HID projector low beams I may never have to. My main concern is that the OEM switch can handle the additional relayed load. I'll have to consider my options. Thanks again. It's good have a level headed woman aboard.

  4. #4
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    If you've got a relay you're good-to-go punching in on the OEM fogs. There's enough voltage out there that it won't notice the addition of just a relay.

    I did something similar, but an triggering it off the OEM high-beams since I want it for moose lights (two Vision X halogen spots and a Hanma 21" LED bar). I've got the OEM fogs wired as OEM, but going to the H3 bulbs in the aftermarket bumper. I did go through the trouble of bypassing the BCM so the fogs lights are triggered independently, allowing me to control them 100% solely through the OEM fog-light switch. I haven't added the micro-relay to have them shut-off automatically with the key, but that allows me to totally shut off the engine and still turn on some lights for setting up a tent at night, etc. And if I want them on with the brights, they are!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    If you've got a relay you're good-to-go punching in on the OEM fogs. There's enough voltage out there that it won't notice the addition of just a relay.

    I did something similar, but an triggering it off the OEM high-beams since I want it for moose lights (two Vision X halogen spots and a Hanma 21" LED bar). I've got the OEM fogs wired as OEM, but going to the H3 bulbs in the aftermarket bumper. I did go through the trouble of bypassing the BCM so the fogs lights are triggered independently, allowing me to control them 100% solely through the OEM fog-light switch. I haven't added the micro-relay to have them shut-off automatically with the key, but that allows me to totally shut off the engine and still turn on some lights for setting up a tent at night, etc. And if I want them on with the brights, they are!
    That sounds like the way I would like to go. If you can provide me with a how to bypass the BCM to get the fogs to operate independently it would be much appreciated.

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  7. #7
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    Thanks so much for posting this! I checked the Waytek site and the micro relay is no longer available. Do you by chance have extras?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MexiJeeper View Post
    Thanks so much for posting this! I checked the Waytek site and the micro relay is no longer available. Do you by chance have extras?
    Like I said, I didn't bother with the micro relay; the switch is now 100% independent. If the fog-light switch is on, the lights are on, irrespective of the key position and irrespective of the headlight switch position. Essentially all I did was pop apart the connector, remove the two wires (A15, brown with white tracer; and B22, dark green with yellow tracer), reassemble the connectors minus those two wires and reinstalled it back in the BCM, and taped the ends of the two wires together. (I did it this way so it's 100% reversible to OEM. The "easy" way to do it would be to just have cut those two wires and put them together.)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    Like I said, I didn't bother with the micro relay; the switch is now 100% independent. If the fog-light switch is on, the lights are on, irrespective of the key position and irrespective of the headlight switch position. Essentially all I did was pop apart the connector, remove the two wires (A15, brown with white tracer; and B22, dark green with yellow tracer), reassemble the connectors minus those two wires and reinstalled it back in the BCM, and taped the ends of the two wires together. (I did it this way so it's 100% reversible to OEM. The "easy" way to do it would be to just have cut those two wires and put them together.)
    Sorry but I missed that. My brain just shuts down when it comes to electrical circuitry. What you did sounds like the easier way to go and is much less intimidating to me. Thanks againn for getting me on track.

  10. #10
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    fog light high beam bypass is in our tech archives as well.

    adding on a relay harness in addition to OEM fogs wont be an issue - relays pull virtually no current (viper alarm circuits made to trigger relays are 200mA max - aka nothing)
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
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    My niner is Canadian, so has celsius temp guage and some other metric scale guage for oil pressure... and DTR high beams.
    Even at the lower DTR power, the high beams on the glass lens e-code headlights are too bright for oncoming traffic.

    I would like to adjust the power down further. Is there a PWM module somewhere that controls the power?

    I suppose I could rewire my DTR relays so the low-beams come on with the lower power instead of the high beams, but I'd rather leave it connected to high beams... more visibility than low beams without blinding.

    Anybody done either of these so I don't have to reinvent the wheel?


    I'm familiar with the DTR delete mod, but that's not what I want. DTR makes sense in rainy Seattle, especially since my Platinum niner is the same color as rain clouds.

  12. #12
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    most DRLs simply run the filaments in series. if you can locate the output wire for them, you could add a resistor in series (make sure it can handle the power - not some 1/4 watt radio shack turd)
    Ross
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    most DRLs simply run the filaments in series. if you can locate the output wire for them, you could add a resistor in series (make sure it can handle the power - not some 1/4 watt radio shack turd)
    Thought I read somewhere they were 10% power- series would be roughly 50% power of a single beam at full power. Maybe it was wrong, or maybe I forgot. Oh well... your solution is easy and cheap to try. A 4 ohm 20 Watt resistor for each side should cut it to about 35% power, and that would probably be good.

    Thanks!- I'll give it a try.

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