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Thread: Project "SamTu"

  1. #1
    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    Project "SamTu"

    Instagram:Bigtheopacific
    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/theopacific



    8/17/2012 I drove north two hours to buy my 1998 slate 5.9 limited jeep grand cherokee.

    Walked on the lot with 1,000$ in my hand and zero credit. left with my baby and a 30% interest rate loan............



    Drove her home doing 50-90mph pulls nonstop.

    100% stock with goofy mud flaps and 162,000 miles on her.

    - - - Updated - - -

    One of the reasons i wanted this specific one so bad was shes flawless.
    The cars service hstory is 100% documented at jeep/ dodge dealerships.
    I am now the 3rd owner. (the second owner was the dealerships owners wife. She had just bought a new GC and decided to sell it. I still have a copy of her title with his business card.)
    Its never been in a accented.

    Last edited by theopacific1; 11-24-2014 at 01:05 PM.

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    Member ZJ-John's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theopacific1 View Post
    30% interest rate loan...


    LOL!!!
    Is this going to be a build thread or an economics/Fiscal responsibility thread???

    Last edited by ZJ-John; 11-24-2014 at 12:15 PM.

  3. #3
    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    I wanted this car beacuse of how pure it was but after using as my DD and pushing her limits way to many times, im the one who has ruined her.
    I was hit from the side by a 65+ year old lady





    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ZJ-John View Post
    LOL!!!
    Is this going to be a build thread or an economics/asset-liability mismatch thread?
    Got to start building credit somewhere. haha
    Its going to be a build that makes me open a lot of lines of credit....
    HAHA

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    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    ********************************

    A lot of stuff happend from that point till now but who cares.

    ********************************

    The plan: 600+HP
    True RWD 5.9 jeep

    5.9 magnum block
    ^stroke out to 408 at 8.*:1 compression
    46RE tranny
    46RE RWD Overdrive/rear output tail
    Shiftkit/valve body
    2500-2800 stall converter
    2WD dummy axle beam
    WJ Brake upgrade
    Twin turbo or Supercharger (I know it sounds crazy but its possible with a lot of planning and time)
    Sunroof delete.
    New rear end (not sure if i want to go ford or find a new d44 that doesn't suck)
    Front and rear ADDCO swaybars
    Maybe lowering spring (most likely not)
    SCT tunner
    ^I wanna learn to tune mopar EFI



    This plan is always changing and at this point this is what i want to do.
    Samtu is not my DD anymore. down time is not a problem anymore
    I am 21 years old and I live with my mom (I pay all my own bills and half the rent FYI, Im not a candy a$$)

    Some of the stuff on this list I have done.
    2WD beam
    Wj brakes
    understanding how 90's mopar efi works. (speed density)

  5. #5
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    the plan looks insane, in the good way
    keep up the good job
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

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    WJ brake/ 2WD beam















    Let me know if you want more Pic's

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    King Dumbass McCloudsZJ's Avatar
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    Of course we want more pics!!!

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    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    The next thing im working on is the TRUE 2WD conversion

    From my personal understanding what im going to need is the overdrive/tail from a RWD 44re, 46re, 47re
    I have done a bunch or research from 2wd to 4wd build (I read them from back to front), Overdrive rebuilds and just pulling stuff apart at the junkyard and reassembling them.

    So this last weekend I Picked up a RWD overdrive/tail from pick-n-pull
    The fluid looked good and it was off of a V8 truck so I thought it was the right one.
    As i was writing this I realized that this will not work. or at least it wont work right.


    (donor truck)

    The overdrive i picked up was from a 1995 dodge 1500.... (1995 OBD1)
    The picture of the case below is what I picked up


    The picture of my 4WD overdrive is below


    Anyone see the difference besides 4wd and 2wd?



    Yes! The pre OBD2 units dont have the transmission speed sensor

    Back to the planning board!!

  9. #9
    Member Mark 318 ita's Avatar
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    hi, did you convert to 2wd for weight reduction?
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
    my channel
    https://www.youtube.com/TommyVercettism/videos

  10. #10
    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark 318 ita View Post
    hi, did you convert to 2wd for weight reduction?
    Yes sir.

    I have a 96 zj 5.2 as my DD

  11. #11
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
    Of course we want more pics!!!
    Always! Always moar pics



    Quote Originally Posted by theopacific1 View Post
    The next thing im working on is the TRUE 2WD conversion

    From my personal understanding what im going to need is the overdrive/tail from a RWD 44re, 46re, 47re

    The overdrive i picked up was from a 1995 dodge 1500.... (1995 OBD1) !!

    Theo, I believe it's limited to the 46RE and possibly/probably the 47RE. I am definitely not 100% sure on this but I don't think the 44 and 46 series parts are compatible.

    These new trannies have their roots in the old Mopar stuff of the 60s and 70s. The 44 series is based on the old 904 smaller tranny, the 46 series is based on the bigger heavier duty 727 tranny. The 904 case is noticeably smaller so "I believe" lol - that the 904 OD section may not bolt onto the 46RE case. If you've read or seen otherwise - ignore what I said

    You could even go with the 2WD 44RE from the late 5.2 ZJs. You'd have to really build it, so you're probably better off keeping the 46RE.


    I'm excited to see this Theo.

    I've seen one or two people that said they have 2WD builds but they never posted anything about them. I don't know if they were 5.9s or 5.2s


    So that's from a WJ? I thought they had a wider housing or something.
    Are those new knuckles or did you just clean them up - and is the ABS wheel compatible with the ZJ ABS system?

    I think I have an MJ beam lined up for my lightweight build. I believe I'd have to change the knuckles to ZJ stuff if I want to keep ABS - still undecided on that.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Theo, I believe it's limited to the 46RE and possibly/probably the 47RE. I am definitely not 100% sure on this but I don't think the 44 and 46 series parts are compatible.
    I have found on multiple add's and rebuilds that the 46 and 47 are the same housing. not sure about the internals. And a few rebuild/replace instructions said a 44 will work. I see a lot more of 46/47 information so im looking for a 1500 5.9 dodge to gut out.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/46RE-47RE-OV...491cd7&vxp=mtr


    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    These new trannies have their roots in the old Mopar stuff of the 60s and 70s. The 44 series is based on the old 904 smaller tranny, the 46 series is based on the bigger heavier duty 727 tranny. The 904 case is noticeably smaller so "I believe" lol - that the 904 OD section may not bolt onto the 46RE case. If you've read or seen otherwise - ignore what I said
    prob right.



    You could even go with the 2WD 44RE from the late 5.2 ZJs. You'd have to really build it, so you're probably better off keeping the 46RE.


    I'm excited to see this Theo.

    I've seen one or two people that said they have 2WD builds but they never posted anything about them. I don't know if they were 5.9s or 5.2s


    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    So that's from a WJ? I thought they had a wider housing or something.
    Are those new knuckles or did you just clean them up - and is the ABS wheel compatible with the ZJ ABS system?

    I think I have an MJ beam lined up for my lightweight build. I believe I'd have to change the knuckles to ZJ stuff if I want to keep ABS - still undecided on that.
    All I got from the yard was the 99-04 WJ knuckles.
    You keep you hubs, steering link. axle shafts (ABS marks are on the Shaft or stub axle for 2wd)
    You can make the ABS work but you need to drill and tap holes for the ZJ Wheel speed pickups.
    Now that RWD only I don't drive it in the rain or snow so i just said screw it. I don't need or want ABS on this truck. i need to re-plumb the brake lines without the ABS motor. free up some room.

    Ill look for the info on making the ABS work.

    What you do need for this swap is
    Hub spacers
    (I have been told and seen that you should weld the spacers to the knuckles!!!! They are a interference fit. I forgot to weld them before paint/final assembly. I have driven the shit out of this truck and I have zero play in the hub fitment but i still plan on taking them apart and welding them up.)
    WJ knukles
    WJ ball joints (I don't recall what side but the upper or lower can be reused, but if you have it all apart why not replace both.)

    I picked up some IRO Rotors

    Mopar loaded calipers and hardware



    You will most likely need to shim the caliper off the knuckle
    you can see the gap between the hardware and the knuckle


    DO NOT USE ANYTHING BESIDE FACTORY BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I used this set up and it came apart on me while i was driving and destroyed the caliper bracket!!!!!!!!



    Last thing you need is some big ass balls to modify factory brake setup on your car.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I'm excited to see this Theo.

    I've seen one or two people that said they have 2WD builds but they never posted anything about them. I don't know if they were 5.9s or 5.2s
    Some people talk a big game huh?
    Last edited by theopacific1; 11-25-2014 at 09:50 AM.
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I think I have an MJ beam lined up for my lightweight build. I believe I'd have to change the knuckles to ZJ stuff if I want to keep ABS - still undecided on that.
    I was looking at the MJ's and they have dana 30's for the front axle. same axle set up that was used in the xj. I know that XJ and ZJ front axles are interchangeable.

    So im pretty sure that you can swap it over, and is the axles are the same you should be able to toss on the zj knuckles with the ABS wheel speed on it.
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

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    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueF...47RE.2F48RE.29


    ########################Quote##################### ##
    518 (46RH/46RE)

    The A518, later renamed 46RH (hydraulic controlled governor pressure) and 46RE (electronic controlled governor pressure), is an A727 derivative with overdrive, in the A500 ilk. Starting in the early 1990s, it was used in trucks and vans. The overdrive fourth gear ratio is 0.69:1.

    Gear ratios:

    1 2 3 4 R
    2.45 1.45 1.00 0.69 2.35

    Applications:


    • Dodge Ram pickup and vans 1500/2500/3500 V8 engines (DGT)
    • Dodge Ramcharger SUV 1988-1993 5.2L & 5.9L V8
    • Jeep Grand Cherokee 1998 5.9L
    • Jeep Grand Cherokee] 1993-1995 5.2 V8
    • 1996 Dodge Dakota V8 (Also 98-03 Dakota 5.9L R/T)
    • 1998-2003 Dodge Durango 5.9L V8 (4WD or 2WD)
    • 1998–2003 Dodge Dakota R/T
    • 1994-1995 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 V8
    • 1995 Dodge Dakota 5.2l magnum v-8
    • X-1995 Dodge Ram Van 2500 5.2L Magnum V8


    ################################################## ##############


    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite

    ###################Quote##########################
    Transmissions

    Transmissions for the Ram


    • A500/42RH-RE lower geared light duty applications found behind the 3.9 L V6,
    • A518/46RH-RE for more heavy duty applications found behind the 5.2 L and 5.9 L V8 engines.
    • A618/47RH-RE for heavy duty use behind the V10 gasoline and Cummins diesel engines. The 47RH was used in 1994 and 1995 model years, while the 47RE was used from 1996 through 2002.

    ################################################## ###############################

    So i just need a OBD2 1996-2001 dodge ram 1500 V8 that is RWD
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

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    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    2WD UPDATE!!

    Today a buddy and I went 50 miles south to the Tacoma WA pick-n-pull for another RWD overdrive!
    45min drive took well over a hour and it was pouring rain...

    This was was not going to come out without a fight and after about a hour it was out



    Another Problem!!!!!

    The OBD2 jeeps have a Transmissions output speed sensor in the overdrive unit and a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)

    The Overdrive unt from the 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.2 46RE only has the TOSS.... So the PCM must calculate the vehicle speed with the RPM and what gear the truck is in.

    I want to figure out a way to make this work but worse case scenario... GPS speedometer and some new gauges to match
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

  16. #16
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theopacific1 View Post


    Another Problem!!!!!

    The OBD2 jeeps have a Transmissions output speed sensor in the overdrive unit and a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)

    The Overdrive unt from the 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.2 46RE only has the TOSS.... So the PCM must calculate the vehicle speed with the RPM and what gear the truck is in. ...

    Well crap! That's the one thing I didn't think of - although actually I'm not sure I knew it applied to Dodges too.

    I'm guessing that, like the WJS the Dodges probably have their VSS in the rear diff. That's why we can't use the straight 247 Tcase from the WJ, it doesn't have VSS cuz the WJs use the rear axle too.


    I know someone mentioned some converter box type setup that uses the ABS tone rings on the axles as a VSS input. I'll see if I can find the info

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I'm guessing that, like the WJS the Dodges probably have their VSS in the rear diff. That's why we can't use the straight 247 Tcase from the WJ, it doesn't have VSS cuz the WJs use the rear axle too.
    I know someone mentioned some converter box type setup that uses the ABS tone rings on the axles as a VSS input. I'll see if I can find the info
    Thats what we were thinking but we were looking at the rear diff and didn't see anything but it was getting dark and it was raining. I just wanted my damn overdrive!
    Today we went to the Pick n pull by me and i still didnt see it on the WJ.


    Any luck on the VSS converter?
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

  18. #18
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Still looking...

    Quote Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
    The WJ has no speed sensor on the t-case. Just the mode sensor, but that shouldn't be an issue. The speed is sensed from the rear ABS tone rings, and the fronts if the rear signal fails.

    Quote Originally Posted by enlight22 View Post
    i believe this actually isnt the case... the WJ uses active hall effect sensors and the zj uses passive... or something like that.... i dont think u will get the wj sensors to work on the zj system... without some sort of electronic translator. your options appear to be make the zj sensors fit the wj knuckles somehow... or find some other compatible sensor that will fit wj knuckles
    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    ^that.
    IIRC the WJ sensors are powered, and the ZJ stuff isnt.

    So between our PCM (probably) looking for a completely different kind of signal and the ZJ sensors working different ways that probably doesn't help.


    I did see this in the ebay link you posted though:

    OVERDRIVE EXTENSION HOUSING 2WD STYLE. Has two speed sensor holes on drivers side on 9 O'Clock Position & 7 O'Clock Position.
    FITS A500, A518, A618, 42RE, 44RE, 46RE, and 47RE.

    (FYI, that one in the link is a bare housing no internals, so wouldn't do you much good by itself but that company or others might sell the complete assembly)

    So assuming one is the output shaft speed sensor and one is the speedo sensor I guess that implies the proper rear section is out there - no idea what vehicle it would be on though.

    It also implies that it does fit a 44RE - I figured since they were based on two different transmissions and have a noticeably different case size, the output sections wouldn't be interchangeable, but it really only goes by the mounting section so I may indeed have been wrong about that.
    In which case you could probably hunt down the OD section from a 2WD 5.2 Jeep with the 44RE. That might be your best bet. I'd want to confirm that through some tranny shop before I went looking for 44RE parts though. I'd ask a shop that does custom/performance work like SMR or APS or whatever, as a 'regular' tranny shop might not know that. Best bet would actually be Martin Saine but he can be hard to get in touch with. He frequently doesn't respond to email, but his phone number is in the vendors section I believe.



    Other thoughts:

    Did you return the OBD1 housing when you got the newer one? Looks like there's two section, one being the OD section and one being the tail section - it's possible the OBD1 tail with speedo output might fit on the 98 OD section with the output shaft speed sensor.

    Either that or maybe if you hunt around at that boneyard you could find the proper tail section with both sensors, depending on how many Dodges they have there. Maybe a tranny shop could tell you what Dodge vehicles it was used on.


    Or you could just get the whole 44RE and get a performance rebuild on it. Not gonna be as strong as the 46 but it would probably be ok depending on what kind of power you plan on putting down.
    The smaller rotating mass of the (44RE vs 46RE) internals helps reduce some parasitic loss too. My 93 5.9/44RE seems to really like it. It's pretty quick for a basically stock 5.9. No idea if that's due to the tranny itself or what but it might be more noticeable on my 93 where it's still AWD.


    I did see some Explorers evidently have a speedo output on the rear diff, and I think you mentioned going with an 8.8 anyway. (although I'm not real up on the Ford stuff so I don't even know if that's an 8.8 diff they're talking about, but probably?)
    That might be a place to start but I'm guessing Fords use a different setup and/or the signal might be a totally different pulse/frequency/blah blah blah so you might still end up hunting for some type of signal converter.
    Last edited by Z88Z; 11-30-2014 at 08:50 AM.

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    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Still looking...

    I did see this in the ebay link you posted though:

    OVERDRIVE EXTENSION HOUSING 2WD STYLE. Has two speed sensor holes on drivers side on 9 O'Clock Position & 7 O'Clock Position.
    FITS A500, A518, A618, 42RE, 44RE, 46RE, and 47RE.
    Yea i have both overdrives.........

    The places here in seattle have zero knowledge about mopar drive-trains and the dealers here have shitty customer service and done help. So............ haha

    So i found this just now.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/46RE-47RE-TR...26044631&rt=nc

    Ill do some research on this one and i hope 3rd try is the charm.

  20. #20
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Did you buy that piece? I used to live near Perkinsville Vermont. How cool is that.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Did you buy that piece? I used to live near Perkinsville Vermont. How cool is that.
    Thats pretty cool. was that add yours? haha

    Yea I offered 75.00$ and they said sure. so its on its way to seattle.
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

  22. #22
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theopacific1 View Post
    .....So i found this just now.

    Ill do some research on this one and i hope 3rd try is the charm.

    I hope this works for you!

    Did you get any info as to what vehicle this came out of or what vehicles used it? It would be nice to be able to recommend the right parts in the future.


    I'll be interested in seeing how it fits our trans X member/mount setup. Looks like our setup might fit right to the mount - if it's at the right length that is. If not, since it looks like a fairly flat area it will probably be fairly easy to fabricate something and/or alter the Dodge or Jeep trans mount to fit it


    Since you (hopefully) have this part figured out, and since you might be going to the Ford axle, now would be a good time to read up on degreeing the drivetrain/driveline if you're not already familiar with the subject.

    You'd have to weld ZJ compatible mounts to the Ford 8.8 anyway, so this gives you the opportunity to angle it slightly for an optimal line up for the trans/dshaft/axle. You might even want to consider spacing the crossmember down a bit -

    Either way, adjustable rear control arms would probably be beneficial to fine tuning your suspension, but of course that adds to the costs. There are adjustable CAs out there but I think they're more for lifted applications? - although you may find them in stock lengths.
    Ironmanandy in our vendors section makes them in custom lengths, but that's obviously gonna cost a bit more.

    The lowering springs would probably help a bit towards this

  23. #23
    Member theopacific1's Avatar
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    I should stay with the D44a and rebuild what i have.

    I sent the seller a email asking what it was from and I still have no reply. The overdrive should be here monday!!!!

    I had Kolak price me out at 8 upper and lower IronRock arms
    Might go that path
    1998 5.9 limited grand cherokee, 196,000 miles, 360ci stock block, 46re stock tranny converted to RWD, 2WD front axle, Bosch 703 injectors, WJ brake swap. IRO dimpled and slotted rotors, K&N, MSD 6A, IAT relocate

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    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    I thought the 8.8 was mentioned up there ^ somewhere. Maybe it wasn't? lol.


    I'm not a big fan of mixing and matching makes myself, but there's lots of ZJs rockin that Ford 8.8.

    I wasn't even actually recommending the Ford axle so much as I was saying that since you'd have to weld brackets on it anyway, it would give you a chance to position the brackets/axle for optimum pinion angle. (which would theoretically be a different angle than if you set it up for normal height or offroading)

    If you're using the stock rear end, adjustable CAs would be the next best thing, along with possibly shortening your trans mount (if it has to be customized to fit the new OD section - or does it bolt right up?) or doing some kind of shimming to lower your trans xmember. Something like the "Tcase drop block" kits you can buy, but not sure how much you'd need. That might be too much.

    Since you're going 2WD you (theoretically) don't need the clearance, so if you lower it a bit it's that much closer to an optimum driveline angle. You'd have an advantage over the AWD builds (and their built in parasitic loss from the less than optimum driveline angles) and since you want to put as much power to the ground as possible this is an easy way to take advantage of it.

    Unnecessary angles in the driveline is power you're leaving on the table. Like I said, read up on degreeing the driveline.



    That's just my two cents, although the theory is sound. Whether it justifies the work and or expense is up to you

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I thought the 8.8 was mentioned up there ^ somewhere. Maybe it wasn't? lol.


    I'm not a big fan of mixing and matching makes myself, but there's lots of ZJs rockin that Ford 8.8.

    I wasn't even actually recommending the Ford axle so much as I was saying that since you'd have to weld brackets on it anyway, it would give you a chance to position the brackets/axle for optimum pinion angle. (which would theoretically be a different angle than if you set it up for normal height or offroading)

    If you're using the stock rear end, adjustable CAs would be the next best thing, along with possibly shortening your trans mount (if it has to be customized to fit the new OD section - or does it bolt right up?) or doing some kind of shimming to lower your trans xmember. Something like the "Tcase drop block" kits you can buy, but not sure how much you'd need. That might be too much.

    Since you're going 2WD you (theoretically) don't need the clearance, so if you lower it a bit it's that much closer to an optimum driveline angle. You'd have an advantage over the AWD builds (and their built in parasitic loss from the less than optimum driveline angles) and since you want to put as much power to the ground as possible this is an easy way to take advantage of it.

    Unnecessary angles in the driveline is power you're leaving on the table. Like I said, read up on degreeing the driveline.



    That's just my two cents, although the theory is sound. Whether it justifies the work and or expense is up to you
    that's interesting...tell me if i got i right: a lifted rig is running on "extreme" angles and this makes it loosing power...correct?
    98 ZG 318 limited: np 242 swap, aussie locker, shift kit, optima red, 170lbs reduction, 5.9 vents, tcase skid, kn air filter, air ram, 1.7 HS RRs, SCT 93 oct tune, magnaflow muffler 12255, magnaflow hi-flo cat, spectre air hat, 2x52mm tb, 5.9 efan swap, ngk fr5-1 plugs, mopar perf wires, new cap 'n rot, maxxperf coil, iat relocation, roof lights, pirelli scorpions on masitaly 16x7 rims ET=0, ome HD coils +2",rubic exp +2"shocks, skyjacker ss, rubic exp adjustable front arms, jks rear+procomp front trackbar, prothane engine n tranny mounts, prothane sway bars bushings, drilled n slotted rotors, aeronautical front brake lines, purple led into front grill, hella h4s 100/55w, osarm h3s 55w.
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