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  1. #76
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    Got a question.... my cooler has 1/2" NPT female threads....
    There is a 1/2" npt to -8AN hose fitting, but nothing that goes to -6AN (I am referring to a male npt swivel fitting)... like this one.



    .....so the question is.... are they any severe consequences to going -8AN on the tranny lines VS -6AN ? Do you think it would still hold adequate pressure? I know Martin might know the answer... just thought I would see what you guys think.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
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  2. #77
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  3. #78
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    Just some thoughts to throw into the check valve/no check valve discussion.
    Ditching the factory check valve is highly recommended!

    Installing a remote spin-on filter adapter and using something like a PH16 or HP1 filter adds about 1/2 qt and 1 qt respectively, and provides a check valve because the filters have rubber check valves built in.

    Just don't make the mistake of connecting them backwards! I put them in the pressure line before the coolers. That way they catch any debris before it gets in and gumms up the coolers, which are extremely difficult to clean out completely.

    For those who asked, the factory check valve is in the end of the rubber factory cooler line at the front of the vehicle, between the metal cooler line going to the trans and the metal line connecting to the radiator. It will look like a -6AN fitting. The check valve is built into the hose end.


    This has been a great thread, enjoyed reading it.

  4. #79
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sainePerf View Post
    Just don't make the mistake of connecting them backwards!

    NOW you tell me!! lolol
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  5. #80
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    sweet.... thanks for the info!
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  6. #81
    Member GreenZJ's Avatar
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    Martin, Where are you located in the US?
    -'98 ZJ 5.9L Ltd Sunroof Delete Model-


    -2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 Black/Black-

  7. #82
    registered user Jeepkid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreenZJ View Post
    Martin, Where are you located in the US?
    hes in cali..
    2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX-4 Hemi, 407lb Tq 390+Hp, Navigation, Back up cam.
    '79 Hydrostream Vector w/ 150HP Mercury Black Max outboard.
    '07 Acura Tsx Navi, Back up cam, Projector headlamps
    '98 <TRADED> 5.9 ZJ 14.77 1/4 mile ,3in FM 40 series, HF Cat,E-Cut-out, Mx6 shocks,20x8.5 Cobra R's 255/45/20 Yokohamas, 5% limo tint,Addco 1.25" military bar front, Hellwig 7/8th bar rear, Regeared to 4.10's, 13" C6 Corvette Brake Kit with Dual piston caliper, Wj Control Arms, Doug Thorley headers, 52mm TB, K&N Intake, boxed rear control arms with prothane bushings, Prothane trans mount, Martin Saines custom trans, Aux trans filter, B&M trans cooler, 242 Case swap, SCT Tuner Via hemifever, JL w6v2 sub, JL speakers, Kenwood amp,8 inch indash dvd

  8. #83
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    going to attempt a test fitment of the cooler this weekend under the jeep...
    Might consider enclosing the unit with a make-shift debris blocker made from sheet aluminum.. and punch some vent holes through it... a little paranoid of a rock flinging up from the ground at high speeds and nuking my cooler....
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  9. #84
    Member 5.9_Racer's Avatar
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    UPDATE to this project....

    I finally got to see my kooler in action....
    I went to the junk yard and pulled off some fuse box connections to wire in a couple new circuits since our box has 2 blank slots.... So I am running the B&M kooler on a 20amp fuse, then supply power down the jeep to the thermostat, which powers the fan at 175degees. Since my temp sensor is on my pan, I end up seeing the fan turn on at 180 degrees.

    Since the fan is powered from the fuse box location, it continues to stay on after I take the keys out... so the coolant in the radiator cools to 175.....

    Just curious, if the tranny would allow an exterior pump to be inline... which could pump fluid and circulate without the engine on???... To cool all the fluid back down fairly fast, but not have it active until the ignition is off.... and auto powered off when the thermostat sensed a good temp.
    Rarely Active, in case you are looking for me on here.....
    Past: 92 MJ --> 89 XJ --> 99 WJ --> 92 YJ [RIP] --> 98 ZJ [RIP] --> 05 LJ --> 98 ZJ
    Last: Stroker - 410Cu In, SuperCharged '98 ZJ (500hp+) @12.2 - 1/4mile.... she was a blast!!
    Click here for my build thread....Project Fireheadman 6.7L SuperCharged and Stroked

  10. #85
    XJ whiz POLAR_JEEP_04's Avatar
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    How much of that -6 line did you end up using?

  11. #86
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Bumping this from the dead since I want to start looking at replacing the factory lines with AN plumbing. Any tips/suggestions so I don't end up cracking the trans? They seem super brittle.

    I am still debating of bypassing the radiator, and adding the thermostat that 5.9_Racer linked to in post #54. Anyone try this?

    In the last picture of post #30 I also notice there is an additional adapter coming out where he originally cracked it. What's that for?

    From various information gathering, it seems the best way to route the lines when adding a cooler is that the pressure line gets hooked to the bottom to push fluid to the top. The top line is what returns back into the trans. This forces out any air bubbles/pockets. This is still accurate and updated information?
    - Sandy

  12. #87
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    While bypassing the rad has its merits I wouldn't do it if you live in a colder climate, which you do. The transmission temp does need to be warm.

    I would personally stay with hardline as much as possible. While I don't like the quick disconnects on the transmission end, the potential to crack the transmission doesn't appeal to me. I would cut the lines at the front prior to where they switch to hose and have them flared for an AN fitting. Hardline is also more durable and longer lasting than hose. And you will save some money there as well.

    For routing the fluid through the cooler I have talked to different cooler manufacturers about this. Some say it doesn't matter, some say it does. Personally I would go on the side of caution and put the inlet at the the bottom so it pushes any air out.

    Also, while this isn't on a ZJ this is the cooler and filter setup I put on my XJ: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1026658

    Using that setup my trans temp averages 170* and has never been above 190*
    Last edited by SilverXJ; 03-30-2015 at 06:28 AM.

  13. #88
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    I was going to bypass and install the thermostat: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...s/parts/501ERL so that would take care of the warm up in the colder months.

    I was also looking into what you suggest with keeping all the hard line and just putting AN ends where the soft tube starts. The line where the check valve is (line that goes into bottom of rad), easy peasy, can get an adapter for that side. The return line would have to figure out how to get an end on there. Welding may not work since it's such thin metal.
    - Sandy

  14. #89
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    The thermostat is a good idea and will solve the cold climate issue. However I would look for one that is specifically for a transmission. While that one would work fine its a bit larger than you need and it also has -10 AN ports, which are huge for a transmission and would need to be adapted down.
    If you have an industrial hose house or a hydraulic shop near you they can flair the line. Just remember to put the AN Tube nut and tube sleeve on first. There are also AN to hardline compression fittings as seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_Iw1kk_7jQ

  15. #90
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    The one I linked was only an example not the one I was looking to purchase. Just wanted to throw it out there if anyone else has used them.

    If I use the hardline compression fitting in the YouTube video you linked I would have to remove the flare from the line, or the compression sleeve won't fit. I already have that fitting from another project and attempted to mock it up on the extra set of trans cooler lines I have sitting. I think I will look into the tube nut/sleeve combo but will have to get it flared after I put the AN tube sleeve on.

    Edit: This would be the specific one I would buy. Pretty sure Ross linked me to this awhile ago.
    http://derale.com/products/fluid-coo...-chrome-detail
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 03-30-2015 at 07:26 AM.
    - Sandy

  16. #91
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    If I use the hardline compression fitting in the YouTube video you linked I would have to remove the flare from the line, or the compression sleeve won't fit.
    To reflare the line or use the compression fitting the old flare will have to be cut anyhow. Since it is already flared the only question is what size thread is on the tube nut. It might be AN thread or you might find an adapter to go to AN.
    Edit: This would be the specific one I would buy. Pretty sure Ross linked me to this awhile ago.
    http://derale.com/products/fluid-coo...-chrome-detail
    That would work, but if you are going AN I would ditch the barb adapters and go all AN and use some NPT to AN adapters.

  17. #92
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverXJ View Post
    To reflare the line or use the compression fitting the old flare will have to be cut anyhow. Since it is already flared the only question is what size thread is on the tube nut. It might be AN thread or you might find an adapter to go to AN.

    That would work, but if you are going AN I would ditch the barb adapters and go all AN and use some NPT to AN adapters.
    I dug out my digital calipers the hard lines are 3/8, so that would put me at 6AN. I watched a couple YouTube vids, and found a couple threads, so I think I will go the tube and sleeve route.

    As for the Derale tstat system, I think I am going to save myself the trouble and just go through the rad. There must be a reason why people haven't thrown it into the mix when bypassing and/or installing an aux. cooler.
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 03-30-2015 at 11:55 AM.
    - Sandy

  18. #93
    Member SilverXJ's Avatar
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    Most people haven't used the thermostat probably because they don't know and/or it adds cost. My only concern with it is what happens when it fails? Does it fail open or closed?

  19. #94
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    It looks like it fails open. One of these gizmos had a picture of how it operated until it came up to temp. It would basically bypass the cooler until it gets up to temp, then close the valves, to have the fluid flow through the cooler.
    - Sandy

  20. #95
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Just to bump this back up, I may invest in the same cooler the OP has. I know SilverXJ has recommended the inlet hook on the bottom to top to work out any bubbles. Since the Earl's is top fed does routing still matter?

    Also, I read msaine's post about remote mount filtering. Without making this some extreme set up, could I just add an inline filter similar to the check valve that the OP installed? Was thinking of installing this in place of the check valve before the inlet connection goes through the radiator.
    https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/230306ERL
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 08-27-2015 at 03:42 PM.
    - Sandy

  21. #96
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Just my two cents but I'd be concerned a filter that small could clog up if it started getting much debris. I'm assuming that one is as small as it looks, LOL...

    I'd go with the car type oil filter like Martin Saine recommended above and as shown in the link SilverXJ posted up in post #87. Installed before the cooler to keep that clean too, also as recommended by Martin.


    I can't answer on the routing thing.

    I always assumed fluid should be pulled off the bottom to eliminate it sucking air but I see a healthy amount of people that say just the opposite.

    In reality there's probably not a lot of space for air to "gather" in one place in something with tubes this size, so I'm thinking any air that got in would just pass through the system no matter which way you do it. That's my decidedly UN-expert opinion!

  22. #97
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    ABSOLUTELY keep the OEM cooler.

    couple winters ago i drove to work (20 miles, mostly highway) in 2nd gear. locked out of OD, and it wouldnt even shift to 3rd. was brutal.j

    i would say go filter, to OEM cooler, then use the t-stat to bypass an aux cooler.

    and yes, big real filter, not some piddly POS.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  23. #98
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    I am keeping the stock routing to the OEM cooler through the rad. Not convinced to go the the oil filter route, yet. Due to cracking the trans I am not going to be replacing the entire hard line either. Going to just cut where that annoying connector always leaks is and re-flare that for AN plumbing.
    - Sandy

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