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  1. #1
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    Killer Trans Cooler

    I have been gathering all of these parts since the summer of '08. I have thought about it and there is most likely almost $500+ in parts sitting.

    All Earls Plumbing components.

    1/4NPT adpaters on Trans.
    8AN to 6AN adpater for Rad. Trans cooler
    6AN Check valve
    25Ft of ProLite 350 6-Line
    Cooler


    I am planning on installing all of this soon along with a partial ATF drain and adjusting the F/R Bands on the trans.







  2. #2
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    o0o0o0o keep us updated with detailed pics! this looks awesome.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  3. #3
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    Sorta snowed here over the weekend..... maybe next Sat. if it is above 50F.

  4. #4
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    no excuse, you vag!!!!

    BTW is that an inline filter?
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  5. #5
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    "flapper" Check valve; You must be a little sandy yourself....

  6. #6
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    lulz
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  7. #7
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    I have roughly the same project lined up for my 5.9 in the coming week(s) once my transmission is rebuilt, and in. I have a bit of a question though, or maybe a few. I have talked to a few people, and some have said, run the cooler lines just as you would normally, and others have said to run the pressure line from the trans through the stock rad cooler, and then through the aux cooler.

    Apparently, for cold days and winter time, it will help heat up the trans fluid quicker. I would think this would be moot, as you would be running the warmed liquid through a much larger cooler, making the effect almost unnoticeable.

    Also, would keeping my steel lines, as much as possible be recommended, or go with braided lines and AN fittings all the way?

  8. #8
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    Just going to throw a couple thoughts out there...

    I was advised by the guy who built my trans to completely bypass the cooler in the rad. Said there is a chance if the rad got damaged or leaks in the right spot it could allow coolant to mix with the trans fluid. He got me a 30,000lb gvw cooler to run instead, should be more than adequate. Fwiw I have heard of this happening, although not specific to zj’s.

    Also he advised me to remove the check valve altogether. If it were to clog or stick shut you'd cook your trans. The only down side, it since chry trans don't pump in park, it will take a sec when you first put it into gear for it to re-fill what has drained back before you actually move when you first start the jeep.

  9. #9
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    absolutely remove the check-valve! it causes nothign but problems.

    although i dont agree with bypassing the rad section - it helps the trans heat up faster, and having a few rows in the trans open could lead to premature failure
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  10. #10
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    I'm guessing you mean a few rows of the rad? I'm not sure how that would cause failure, unless moisture got in. I'd be sure to plug the inlet and outlet.

    It takes a little time for the coolant in the rad to warm up; I wonder how much it really aids the warm up of the trans?
    There are some coolers that bypass themselves when the fluid is cold, but that might just be one more thing that could fail and cause trans overheat?

  11. #11
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    Aurggggg......






  12. #12
    Administrator Ninergrad's Avatar
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    Why are we leaking????
    -Davit.

    98 ZJ 5.9L Slate
    Click here for MODS

    98 Ram 2500 5.9L 24V Cummins, short bed, Blue
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  13. #13
    registered user Jeepkid's Avatar
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    uh oh that looks bad
    2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX-4 Hemi, 407lb Tq 390+Hp, Navigation, Back up cam.
    '79 Hydrostream Vector w/ 150HP Mercury Black Max outboard.
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  14. #14
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    omfg did u srsly split the case open?!
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  15. #15
    Administrator Ninergrad's Avatar
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    HOLLY ****!!!!
    I didn't even see that, DOOD what did you do???!!!
    -Davit.

    98 ZJ 5.9L Slate
    Click here for MODS

    98 Ram 2500 5.9L 24V Cummins, short bed, Blue
    MBPR Turbo back 4" exhaust, Edge Juice, Superchips tuner.


    http://autotruckservice.org/

  16. #16
    registered user Jeepkid's Avatar
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    used his strong arm!!
    2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX-4 Hemi, 407lb Tq 390+Hp, Navigation, Back up cam.
    '79 Hydrostream Vector w/ 150HP Mercury Black Max outboard.
    '07 Acura Tsx Navi, Back up cam, Projector headlamps
    '98 <TRADED> 5.9 ZJ 14.77 1/4 mile ,3in FM 40 series, HF Cat,E-Cut-out, Mx6 shocks,20x8.5 Cobra R's 255/45/20 Yokohamas, 5% limo tint,Addco 1.25" military bar front, Hellwig 7/8th bar rear, Regeared to 4.10's, 13" C6 Corvette Brake Kit with Dual piston caliper, Wj Control Arms, Doug Thorley headers, 52mm TB, K&N Intake, boxed rear control arms with prothane bushings, Prothane trans mount, Martin Saines custom trans, Aux trans filter, B&M trans cooler, 242 Case swap, SCT Tuner Via hemifever, JL w6v2 sub, JL speakers, Kenwood amp,8 inch indash dvd

  17. #17
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    Yeppers...

    I guess it is time to TIG the case if the crack stopped before were the OD housing meets the main case.

    If not I get to remove the whole thing to fix it. You know what that means...Upgrade everything...The transmission cooler that cost two grand...

  18. #18
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    bah, F that - some JB weld and she'll be good as new!
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  19. #19
    Slick Member Moparboy72's Avatar
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    I almost have it all out to get properly welded up; JB weld could have worked I just can't risk it right now.

    I am cleaning everything else up and I am very tempted to get a Mopar "Econo-Converter" seriously $220 for a 2400 stall in the ole DD. I may also fix my rear main seal leak and install the high pressure seals that come with the Trans-go shift kit that one can only install if the OD housing is removed.....


  20. #20
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    That sux. Sorry to see that bro


    Quote Originally Posted by Saleen4971 View Post
    .....having a few rows in the trans open could lead to premature failure
    Quote Originally Posted by Endless View Post
    I'm guessing you mean a few rows of the rad?
    Actually the trans cooler in the rad is just a pipe that runs top to bottom in the right side tank. Doesn't go anywhere else.

    Prob a good idea to seal it closed tho if you were to bypass it.

  21. #21
    Administrator Ninergrad's Avatar
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    I am still confused as for the benefit of bypassing the rad completely and going directly to the cooler vs using the rad cooler as well?????

    Is there a reason to keep the rad cooler plumed in inline with the axillary trans cooler????
    -Davit.

    98 ZJ 5.9L Slate
    Click here for MODS

    98 Ram 2500 5.9L 24V Cummins, short bed, Blue
    MBPR Turbo back 4" exhaust, Edge Juice, Superchips tuner.


    http://autotruckservice.org/

  22. #22
    registered user Jeepkid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninergrad View Post
    I am still confused as for the benefit of bypassing the rad completely and going directly to the cooler vs using the rad cooler as well?????

    Is there a reason to keep the rad cooler plumed in inline with the axillary trans cooler????
    Well it would depend on where you place the cooler? like if you put it in front of the radiator it might get too cold? well who knows..
    2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX-4 Hemi, 407lb Tq 390+Hp, Navigation, Back up cam.
    '79 Hydrostream Vector w/ 150HP Mercury Black Max outboard.
    '07 Acura Tsx Navi, Back up cam, Projector headlamps
    '98 <TRADED> 5.9 ZJ 14.77 1/4 mile ,3in FM 40 series, HF Cat,E-Cut-out, Mx6 shocks,20x8.5 Cobra R's 255/45/20 Yokohamas, 5% limo tint,Addco 1.25" military bar front, Hellwig 7/8th bar rear, Regeared to 4.10's, 13" C6 Corvette Brake Kit with Dual piston caliper, Wj Control Arms, Doug Thorley headers, 52mm TB, K&N Intake, boxed rear control arms with prothane bushings, Prothane trans mount, Martin Saines custom trans, Aux trans filter, B&M trans cooler, 242 Case swap, SCT Tuner Via hemifever, JL w6v2 sub, JL speakers, Kenwood amp,8 inch indash dvd

  23. #23
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    i see NO reason to get rid the rad cooler, really.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  24. #24
    Huge Member Endless's Avatar
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    I see NO reason to keep it, really.



    no, I really need to look at it and see how it runs through there.

  25. #25
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endless View Post
    .....no, I really need to look at it and see how it runs through there.
    But I 'splained it already!

    Trans cooler in the rad is just a tube that sits inside the right side end tank. It doesn't touch anything besides coolant except where the fittings go through the tank.

    It is maybe 1 1/2 to 2" in diameter and it's maybe at most an inch longer either way than the distance between the inlet and outlet fittings and it has flat end caps welded on.

    ATF just dumps into it, fills it up and runs out of it.

    The fittings you see on the rad are actually welded (brazed?) directly into it. There's a seal on the inside of the tank (obviously) and a nut on the outside that holds it in place.

    I found out a lot about them when I tried to see if I could get the fittings off my old 93 5.2 rad to use on a different year rad.

    FYI - at some odd point which IIRC was 94 or 95 they changed the size of one of the ATF fittings (top I think) which means ZJ rads are not interchangable between all years.
    Last edited by Z88Z; 05-07-2009 at 08:34 PM.

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