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  1. #176
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Was able to finally throw on a lot of stuff I had sitting...


    • Red-Head Steering Gears Reman'd Steering Box
    • Billet Power Steering Pump Bracket (ditched the cast piece)
    • Mountain Vista Fabrications Steering Box Brace
    • ADDCO Front Swarbar
    • Hotchkis Billet Swaybar Mounts



    Steering and handling should be all nice and tight now. Pics to follow...
    - Sandy

  2. #177
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    The photos looked really good. How is she handling now?

  3. #178
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    I looked up the Red Head stuff when you posted that. Looks like seriously good stuff - and they can do them in any color!

    Is yours lifted, or going to be lifted? I was wondering if the steering box brace added any stability to stock height Jeeps?

  4. #179
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    Did you get that bracket on ebay? Let me know how you like it


    I'm also interested in your redhead steering gear

  5. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by MurdaJ View Post
    Did you get that bracket on ebay? Let me know how you like it
    I was wondering about that steering bracket... do you really need a stronger one? Has anyone every actually broken one?... or is this just to have billet coolness?
    Not that I'm above doing something just for coolness (hardly!), but that bracket is almost impossible to see.

  6. #181
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I looked up the Red Head stuff when you posted that. Looks like seriously good stuff - and they can do them in any color!

    Is yours lifted, or going to be lifted? I was wondering if the steering box brace added any stability to stock height Jeeps?
    Quote Originally Posted by MurdaJ View Post
    Did you get that bracket on ebay? Let me know how you like it


    I'm also interested in your redhead steering gear
    I definitely need an alignment but the wandering of the steering is not as noticeable. It doesn't leak so I am happy with it so far. I am going to lift mine eventually, but fixing what I can suspension and mechanically so issues don't surface and/or become more prevalent with the lift.

    As for the steering box brace, Neil from MVF said he is making a beefier one. I would wait for that one if you are interested in purchasing.


    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    I was wondering about that steering bracket... do you really need a stronger one? Has anyone every actually broken one?... or is this just to have billet coolness?
    Not that I'm above doing something just for coolness (hardly!), but that bracket is almost impossible to see.
    The stock bracket is a cast piece. I am not a fan it's flimsy. I have seen pictures on different forums of them cracked, split, or just shattered into pieces like glass. Have even ran through a couple posts on here that once boosted the extra torque on the belts demolishes this bracket. Since I was replacing the PS pump assembly anyway was worth it to me to replace and have peace of mind.
    - Sandy

  7. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    I was wondering about that steering bracket... do you really need a stronger one? Has anyone every actually broken one?... or is this just to have billet coolness?
    Not that I'm above doing something just for coolness (hardly!), but that bracket is almost impossible to see.

    Very common to break. Mine did, the three jy donors had hairline cracks in the same areas mine fractured. And that was a stock 5.2

    New they are $65 at the dealership so me and a buddy machined them and can sell them at the same price. Blingy and buff

    With a super charger in mind I would definitely not trust a stocker, 5.9_racer on here went through like 3 in 15 min lol. I would recommend a dodge ps pump and bracket (requires some grinding on the bracket, some bending of the ps lines, and a longer belt) or my bracket.

    I had a dodge setup for a while on my 96 but there is too much motor movement off road and I banged the ps bracket into the lines coming from the steering gear, cracking the pump bracket and pinching a line. So I went back to the stock replacement piece and stock pump. After this I really noticed how weak the stock ZJ pump is compared to the stock dodge pump; has me thinking about going to poly motor and trans mounts to stiffen things up, allow me to run the dodge setup, and prevent the pump bracket-gearbox collision that happened before

  8. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by MurdaJ View Post
    Very common to break. Mine did, the three jy donors had hairline cracks in the same areas mine fractured. And that was a stock 5.2

    New they are $65 at the dealership so me and a buddy machined them and can sell them at the same price. Blingy and buff

    With a super charger in mind I would definitely not trust a stocker, 5.9_racer on here went through like 3 in 15 min lol. I would recommend a dodge ps pump and bracket (requires some grinding on the bracket, some bending of the ps lines, and a longer belt) or my bracket.

    I had a dodge setup for a while on my 96 but there is too much motor movement off road and I banged the ps bracket into the lines coming from the steering gear, cracking the pump bracket and pinching a line. So I went back to the stock replacement piece and stock pump. After this I really noticed how weak the stock ZJ pump is compared to the stock dodge pump; has me thinking about going to poly motor and trans mounts to stiffen things up, allow me to run the dodge setup, and prevent the pump bracket-gearbox collision that happened before
    Is that you that's selling them on ebay?
    I've always thought the ZJ steering pump was dodgy (pun intended), and now you're saying a dodge pump is the solution. I had heard of swapping in a Durango steering box, but not the pump.
    You're saying the Dodge mounting bracket was the cause of the interference with the steering box? I'm wondering if it would be better/worse/same with the Durango box.
    I'd be more inclined to find a solution in this direction that gives steering benefit other than just not breaking!

  9. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    Is that you that's selling them on ebay?
    I've always thought the ZJ steering pump was dodgy (pun intended), and now you're saying a dodge pump is the solution. I had heard of swapping in a Durango steering box, but not the pump.
    You're saying the Dodge mounting bracket was the cause of the interference with the steering box? I'm wondering if it would be better/worse/same with the Durango box.
    I'd be more inclined to find a solution in this direction that gives steering benefit other than just not breaking!
    My my buddy is handling most of it, just my idea I gave him. But if anyone has trouble getting one on ebay let me know

    I actually have a Durango box and compared it to my stock ZJ box. Seems the difference is small, would help a little as the line is a wee bit farther from the ps pump bracket, but I don't think enough to warrant a new box. Although, next time I need a new one, it'll probably be a ZJ box.

    search a bit on here and you'll find 5.9_racer's build, and I think a separate thread about the dodge pump and bracket. He never posted long term results, but he had poly mounts and wasn't prerunning the desert like me.

    And yes the difference is noticeable. I am planning on drilling out a part that I can't remember the name of at the moment on the stock ZJ box that is supposed to help increase flow and thus power. I hope it will at least match the Dodge pump's performance
    Last edited by MurdaJ; 03-30-2015 at 01:09 PM.

  10. #185
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    For what it cost for the billet bracket, and it being a complete bolt on affair, I am fine keeping the stock PS pump. Combined with the MVF beefy steering box brace I think I will be ok.
    - Sandy

  11. #186
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    It's been awhile since my last update. Work has kept me traveling. I was finally able to get a rust free replacement hatch and hood.

    This is what I had originally -


    This rust was all along the bottom and was even on the other side of the hatch skin (when you look down through the hatch handle area). Every time I would open the hatch rust chunks would fall off. It even started to bubble on the other side.

    Here is the hood -


    All painted and ready for me to throw the interior parts back on -




    My stockpile of parts is adding up. I will post pictures when I actually get things installed.
    - Sandy

  12. #187
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Wow - it's nice seeing those edges crisp clean and rust free like that!

    Were those actually used parts?


    My Jeeps are all uniformly greenish-yellow now. Damn pollen!

  13. #188
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Were those actually used parts?
    Oh yea - I had to drive down South a ways to pick these up rust free. The hatch was actually a different color so the body guy I use definitely knows his stuff to get it to match! The hood was the same color, but had some hail damage, imperfections, and the louvers needed some loving. I actually took the freshly painted louvers off, and had my original ones hydro dipped to offset all the PS4 -



    Jeep needs a bath, some clay, and a nice coat of wax.

    Right now I am waiting on all the cabling and supplies so I can move the battery to the passenger side. It's race season so the Jeep has being put on the back burner so I can attend various car shows and get ideas for all my builds.

    I actually helped install one of these and it's pretty slick! AEM Failsafe gauge - it doubles as a boost gauge AND wideband AND comes with it's own logging/monitoring software.

    It also does other functions, but overall am considering getting this set up once the time comes.
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 06-11-2015 at 06:49 PM.
    - Sandy

  14. #189
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Looks good though.

    I'd love to get the 5spd all platinum again. PO did a blackout thing on part of the hood and part of the grill - doesn't look terrible but I'm getting tired of it.

    I may try to sand it down and see what I get, but I imagine I'll have to repaint it.

  15. #190
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    I finally took the niner out on a nice road trip to the Jersey shore for a family vacation. I can now officially say that the Redhead Steering Gear Box is the shiz! I have no dead spots, and turning the steering wheel is super smooth. I also notice with the ADDCO front sway bar and CA bushings that the Jeep stays straight and rides very smooth. I was surprised considering the agressive tread pattern on the Mickey Thompson's STZ's. Unfortunately, I did so much at once I can't say if one particular upgrade is what helped out a lot, the combo, but now I am all paranoid to tear it down since it's running so well lol.

    Some of the upgrades I have sitting around -


    Jeep being a beast at the beach!


    Battery Relocation -


    Shopping List for Battery Relocation:

    • 15' 1AWG Red Welding Cable


    • 10' 1AWG Black Welding Cable


    • 1AWG 3/8" hole Terminal Lugs


    • 1/2" Black Triple Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink


    • Solder Pellets for 1AWG


    • 10' TechFlex T6 Black Braided Sleeving 1/2"


    • 25' TechFlex Red Braided Sleeving 1/2"


    • KnuKonceptz Bassik Negative Battery Terminal Connector


    • BlueSea Systems 175A AMG/Mega Fuse


    The eBay sellers I used for this were: temco_industrial_power, furryletters, and knukonceptz.com.

    Now only to find time to get this done...
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 08-03-2015 at 12:50 PM.
    - Sandy

  16. #191
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    Nice looking valve covers... are they clear over the orange?
    Is that your oil filler cap? I have the same valve covers (except they're polished), and I'm trying to figure out what to do with all four holes, since we only need two. Are you going to use a catch-can?

    I found a nice oil-filler cap from Billet Specialties, but I didn't buy one yet so still considering my options. I did get their aluminum wire separators that mount on the valve cover bolts... very nice parts.

  17. #192
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    Thanks for sharing the parts list, really appreciate it.

  18. #193
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    Nice looking valve covers... are they clear over the orange?
    Is that your oil filler cap? I have the same valve covers (except they're polished), and I'm trying to figure out what to do with all four holes, since we only need two. Are you going to use a catch-can?

    I found a nice oil-filler cap from Billet Specialties, but I didn't buy one yet so still considering my options. I did get their aluminum wire separators that mount on the valve cover bolts... very nice parts.
    It's powdercoated Hemi Orange with a clear, yes. I will be using either a catch can or AOS (air oil separator) not sure which route I am taking yet. What is pictured is my oil cap. Here is how mine are set up -

    Vent for oil catch can/AOS set up and a plug (passenger side). Also showing off my full length baffles


    Oil cap and VTA (Vent To Atmosphere) PCV breather (driver's side).


    Quote Originally Posted by NYNiner View Post
    Thanks for sharing the parts list, really appreciate it.
    You're welcome!
    - Sandy

  19. #194
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    looking sharp!

  20. #195
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Wow Sandy those VCs are gorgeous!

    Pretty sure I'm going to do mine in yellow with black accents after seeing these

    Did you split the alternator to do that, and/or is that just paint?

    Looks like it's really coming together!



    Sandy, does Redhead require a core, or do they just sell the boxes outright?

    I'm looking at a manual box for my lightweight and I'm wondering if they (or other places) will accept a P/S box as a core. I suppose I could just go look at their site, lol.

  21. #196
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    I see you have the breather with AN fitting in the oil filler hole on the driver valve cover - I guess the o-ring is big enough to seal outside the notches... so what are those breathers?
    I want to put both my breathers aft, and notch one of the round holes to accept a second oil cap, or make a hole cover prettier than the rubber plugs.

  22. #197
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Wow Sandy those VCs are gorgeous!

    Pretty sure I'm going to do mine in yellow with black accents after seeing these

    Did you split the alternator to do that, and/or is that just paint?

    Looks like it's really coming together!



    Sandy, does Redhead require a core, or do they just sell the boxes outright?

    I'm looking at a manual box for my lightweight and I'm wondering if they (or other places) will accept a P/S box as a core. I suppose I could just go look at their site, lol.
    I picked it up from the Dakota boards, so it came like that. Looks like the center part is just paint, but the previous owner took it all apart and powdercoated the outside clear. As for Redhead, they don't require a core. You purchase outright, and when you send back your core, they give you money back.

    Quote Originally Posted by carlmon View Post
    I see you have the breather with AN fitting in the oil filler hole on the driver valve cover - I guess the o-ring is big enough to seal outside the notches... so what are those breathers?
    I want to put both my breathers aft, and notch one of the round holes to accept a second oil cap, or make a hole cover prettier than the rubber plugs.
    I think they are Summit? It's a super thick o-ring. I had to really shove it in there. I don't mind the rubber plug too much. I think it breaks up all the orange and billet going on. There was a thread on here on how to set up the PCV/catch can system. It was not recommended to put both breathers on the same side.
    - Sandy

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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    I think they are Summit? It's a super thick o-ring. I had to really shove it in there. I don't mind the rubber plug too much. I think it breaks up all the orange and billet going on. There was a thread on here on how to set up the PCV/catch can system. It was not recommended to put both breathers on the same side.
    I think you misread me... aft is rearward (I didn't misspell 'left'!). I wanted all the plumbing to be by the firewall for a cleaner look, but still one on either side - looks like that's what you're doing too.
    My question was where you have the PCV breather mounted in a notched oil cap hole on the VC, it can't be just sealed by the grommet because of the notches (or can it?) - so how does it seal where you have it? (I'm talking about where the breather with vent is installed) BTW- those appear to be Earl's breathers.

    I'm thinking that to do what I want, I'm going to have to fill the notches in one of the valve cover holes, but I'm hoping I'm missing something that's stupid-obvious, and easier!

    Another thing I was thinking about doing is using two PCV breathers, with both feeding the catch can (or two catch cans), with the only vent to air (or SC intake) after the catch can(s).
    Last edited by carlmon; 08-05-2015 at 09:54 AM.

  24. #199
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Right...and what I am saying is that the o-ring on the bottom is SUPER thick so it fills the notches. That's why they are so difficult to push in. This would only be on the passenger side, though. The driver's side the notched part of the valve cover would be the oil cap and the plain round hole (toward the firewall) would be the breather.
    - Sandy

  25. #200
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    Shopping List for Battery Relocation:

    • 15' 1AWG Red Welding Cable


    • 10' 1AWG Black Welding Cable


    • 1AWG 3/8" hole Terminal Lugs


    • 1/2" Black Triple Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink


    • Solder Pellets for 1AWG


    • 10' TechFlex T6 Black Braided Sleeving 1/2"


    • 25' TechFlex Red Braided Sleeving 1/2"


    • KnuKonceptz Bassik Negative Battery Terminal Connector


    • BlueSea Systems 175A AMG/Mega Fuse
    Finally got some time to get cracking on the battery relocation. To get where I am took me all weekend. Still waiting on some parts to completely button this up enough to get me running safely, so I can bring the Jeep to the fab guy to help me with the PDC bracket. Onto the pics!

    Relocated the vacuum box that was under the original battery tray. I also extended the wiring for the battery sensor. I actually grabbed another plug set up and used that to extend. That way, if I ever need to remove the battery tray I have a place to unplug it instead of tracing it back all the way on the passenger side.



    I also took the time to do some major degreasing/cleaning of the fender well areas since they were covered in grime. Scrubbing Bubbles FTW! I followed up with POR-15 since I saw a few spots that had surface rust.


    Starting to mock up the battery tray with the cuts I have done.


    Since I was also upgrading the alternator to the 160A Durango thought it would also be an opportune time to check that wiring harness and also upgrade to 4 gauge.

    Good thing I did, because I found a few broken wires along the harness. Cut, and replaced wiring, then used my TechFlex F6 loom to protect it.


    I added a 175A Marine inline fuse. Just in case anything decides to go *pop* OEM cover even fits back over it!


    Stepped back to get an engine bay shot and to show that I hid the cables and wires pretty well.


    ...and random finished shots.


    - Sandy

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