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  1. #26
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    I am having some electrical issues currently. It seems as if the battery is not charging. Had the battery tested and it checks out great, also replaced the starter, so only thing left is the alternator. Basically, the Jeep will crank (you can hear the starter spin and fuel pump prime), but it won't kick over. When I jump the car it starts up and idles fine (no CEL's). First thing I took care of were the battery connections. They were a bit...messy.



    ...will most likely replace the alternator with the Durango 160. Unless there are direct bolt on options now available that do not cost $400?
    - Sandy

  2. #27
    King Dumbass McCloudsZJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    I am having some electrical issues currently. It seems as if the battery is not charging. Had the battery tested and it checks out great, also replaced the starter, so only thing left is the alternator. Basically, the Jeep will crank (you can hear the starter spin and fuel pump prime), but it won't kick over. When I jump the car it starts up and idles fine (no CEL's). First thing I took care of were the battery connections. They were a bit...messy.

    ...will most likely replace the alternator with the Durango 160. Unless there are direct bolt on options now available that do not cost $400?
    Looks familiar...



    I've been tempted to try one of the "220 AMP BRAND NEW MADE IN AMERICA" no-name-brand, Chinese eBay alternators for $200. But mine's brand new, so I have to wait for it to die before I look at a high output one again.

  3. #28
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    This guy is selling 230 amp alternators... https://www.facebook.com/JsUltimateALTs

  4. #29
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
    Looks familiar...

    I've been tempted to try one of the "220 AMP BRAND NEW MADE IN AMERICA" no-name-brand, Chinese eBay alternators for $200. But mine's brand new, so I have to wait for it to die before I look at a high output one again.
    OoOoOO such a baller going with the GOLD battery

    That's what I was looking for! I saw them for the 4.0L (when I had mine), but wasn't sure if they had any out for the 5.9 yet...maybe I will take my chances...

    I found this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-AMP-ALT...cfd00f&vxp=mtr

    He says grinding is needed because it's "like the size" of the V8 ones. So I am assuming that means I won't need to grind and it should be a straight bolt on?

    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    This guy is selling 230 amp alternators... https://www.facebook.com/JsUltimateALTs
    Just checked out his FB. He wants ~$300 for one of those. Still a bit too rich for my blood. Thank you, though!
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 06-02-2014 at 02:21 PM.
    - Sandy

  5. #30
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    For the record in running a 135 amp no biggie.
    '98 Grand 5.9 "Black Pearl" totaled
    '98 Grand 5.9 "Eleanoir"
    "No Officer, all four tire tracks are mine, it WAS all wheel drive......yes ma'am Im aware this structure is normally used to 'park' cars"

  6. #31
    Modfag Saleen4971's Avatar
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    i almsot lost track of what this thread was abotu once i saw the Five-SeveN

    upgraded batt cables are almsot a must. OE is just too damn small.

    160 is a good upgrade. hell, if nothign else its prettier than the 150 IMO - the only two alternators that shoudl be on these jeeps are either the durango 160, or that billet monstrosity that costs 600 bucks or so.

    i loled so hard at the first pic - when you get a tune from ryan, you should put some plastic down on the seat. you may piss yourself.

    damn.....back to guns....i need a 45. all i have handgun wise is a 9mm, and a 10mm. may be selling the 10, which will eventaully be replaced by a full size 1911.
    Ross
    1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
    MPP Headers - Thunderbolt Metallic Cat - 3" Mag catback - EBC Brakes w/ drilled Rotors - 4bbl M1 - Vortech 12psi - Built trans & 2900 stall - Ford 8.8 - Addco & Hellwig Sways - Poly Bushings - H&R Springs - Grabber UHP Tires - Alpine/Infinity Stereo - FX-R BiXenon Retrofit

  7. #32
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    .45 you say eh? The bottom used to be my carry when I worked in the city.


    Picked up this toy for clay/skeet -


    It's funny I have actually been shopping for a 9mm since all we own are .45/.40 and shooting is getting expensive lol. Was looking into H&K, but now the Niner needs some more parts.
    - Sandy

  8. #33
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    Surprised no one has mentioned, it may be a bad voltage regulator in the pcm causing your no charge condition. You can have the alternator bench tested.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  9. #34
    whacker of the wang 98cherokee5.9's Avatar
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    Surprised how many members have firearms lol
    1998 JEEP G.C 5.9 STONE WHITE-roof rack delete, de ambered taillamps,clear corners, spectre 4" airhat and 4" intake tube , ported T.B , Ported factory intake, MSD coil, autolite 3923 plugs, Magnacore 8.5mm wires, 180 T-stat, SCT tuned, h&r lowering springs, Bilstein HD shocks , 3" glass pack muffler, 3" hi-flo cat, 2.5" down pipes,flowmaster 3" merge ,24# FMS injectors,255 walbro Fuel pump.

  10. #35
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostinChick View Post
    ^ .....




    .

    Well crap!!!

    I've seen all kinds of bad rust on ZJs but I've never seen anything quite like that before!!!

    Guessing it sat with a lot of leaves there holding moisture against it. Ask your welding friend but it looks like it could possibly need some reinforcement since it's so close to the hinge area?


    Since it has this rust, I'd take a good look at the area where the firewall and the inner fender meet under the brake booster and the PCM. Leaves and dirt love to congregate there and hold moisture.

    While you're at it grab a light, open the front doors and see what you got hanging out in the bottom of the front fenders too. That area can hold a crap-tonne of leaves and dirt






    Quote Originally Posted by ZJ-John View Post
    This thing cost me about $2 every time I pull the trigger...

    Attachment 6817

    But It can shoot .45 Colt/454 Casull & .460.
    Probably not a good cartridge for BoostinChick. She might try and reapply her lipstick with it

    (ok admit it. That was mildly amusing!)

  11. #36
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepjeepster View Post
    Surprised no one has mentioned, it may be a bad voltage regulator in the pcm causing your no charge condition. You can have the alternator bench tested.
    I was going to get the alternator tested for sure. Was just weighing my options on what is current. I am religious in watching EricTheCarGuy's YouTube channel, and that was something he mentioned when testing the alternator. I tried a basic test with my Fluke and I am not seeing any large degrade in voltage when I put load on the car (brights/headlights on, hazards on, interior lights on, radio on, etc.)

    This test was also performed after I fixed the semi-hack job on the battery terminals and connectors. I wish I tested it prior when I was having the issue to see if there was a difference. The Jeep has been firing up right away the past few days, so I am crossing my fingers it was the connections and not a PCM issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    Well crap!!!

    I've seen all kinds of bad rust on ZJs but I've never seen anything quite like that before!!!

    Guessing it sat with a lot of leaves there holding moisture against it. Ask your welding friend but it looks like it could possibly need some reinforcement since it's so close to the hinge area?


    Since it has this rust, I'd take a good look at the area where the firewall and the inner fender meet under the brake booster and the PCM. Leaves and dirt love to congregate there and hold moisture.

    While you're at it grab a light, open the front doors and see what you got hanging out in the bottom of the front fenders too. That area can hold a crap-tonne of leaves and dirt
    Probably not a good cartridge for BoostinChick. She might try and reapply her lipstick with it

    (ok admit it. That was mildly amusing!)
    The rust is actually bad around the area where the metal clips go in from the plastic liner that has the rear hatch light in it. It just happened to rust through to the body side of the hatch itself where the leaves usually collect. What sucks is that since the guy globbed RTV all over it it's not smooth. So water just hangs in there instead of rolling off to the sides. I am sure after however many years/months it finally penetrated the RTV, and alas, part of my leak. I will check the other areas you mention as well. Going to invest in a gallon of POR-15 since I already have a few areas that need some touching up.

    ...and LOL @ lipstick. Something I never wear. Chapstick on the other hand...I am an addict!
    - Sandy

  12. #37
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Looks like my trans pan is leaking. Must have blown out whatever gasket is in there. I have tried so many types and material gaskets, the OEM ones always work best. Amazon also came through! Picked up this pan for less than $100!

    Got some other goodies as well to throw in as a "while I am at it..." effort.
    - Sandy

  13. #38
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    Youre good if the volts are holding like that with everything on. Every time Ive checked voltage its right at 13.5-14v. I constantly check it in my kj since it has a digital voltage readout. Just keep an eye on it.

    Are those pans really just $100? Where abouts did you get it from on amazon?

    You doing all of this stuff by yourself? Pretty cool if so.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  14. #39
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    Don't forget to do a band adjustment while you're down there! I feel like that's the single most important, and consistently overlooked, service item that kills ZJ trannies (based solely on my unscientific "heard on the street" pole and friends' experiences with ZJs). Both front and rear bands!

    And consider taking out the check-valve while you're making a mess of the transmission fluid. (And consider installing a cooler.)

    I'm looking forward to seeing how you route the line for the transmission temp sending unit! I added a drain plug to an OEM pan, and am considering a temp gauge now that there's a bung installed.

  15. #40
    Member cowboy63b's Avatar
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    I still don't believe your a woman, but if you are, we need to be married right MEOW....
    Resident speeding ticket whore

    If I offend anyone tonight, I apologize. That's not my intention. I'm not going to guess what your personal line of decency is. I cross my own from time to time. It's how I know I still have one.

  16. #41
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Spill where you got the pan at.... cheapest I have seen in eBay for 122 shipped. Oh, and keep up the good work. More photos!

  17. #42
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepjeepster View Post
    Youre good if the volts are holding like that with everything on. Every time Ive checked voltage its right at 13.5-14v. I constantly check it in my kj since it has a digital voltage readout. Just keep an eye on it.

    Are those pans really just $100? Where abouts did you get it from on amazon?

    You doing all of this stuff by yourself? Pretty cool if so.
    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Spill where you got the pan at.... cheapest I have seen in eBay for 122 shipped. Oh, and keep up the good work. More photos!
    I have Amazon Prime, so they send me e-mails about "deals" or if the price of a product fluctuates. Yes, the pan is normally $120-130 shipped but I guess this was returned so it was an "open box" item and had a decent discount on it. Other than a few cosmetic scratches it really is in good shape. Also get free 2-day shipping! I am part of their auto-order for oil thing. I get a case of oil every 5-6 months shipped to me cheaper then me going to PepBoys/WalMart and buying it off the shelf. The stuff I get is high in zinc content as well to help sustain the life of my turbocharged vehicles. I can't wait until Amazon gets drones, or has one of those lockers near me so I don't have to wait 2-days haha!

    As for the labor, I do 90% of all the work on my vehicles. The only things I do not touch are transmission internals (if anything needed a complete breakdown/rebuild) and timing.

    And will do on keeping an eye on the voltage.

    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    Don't forget to do a band adjustment while you're down there! I feel like that's the single most important, and consistently overlooked, service item that kills ZJ trannies (based solely on my unscientific "heard on the street" pole and friends' experiences with ZJs). Both front and rear bands!

    And consider taking out the check-valve while you're making a mess of the transmission fluid. (And consider installing a cooler.)

    I'm looking forward to seeing how you route the line for the transmission temp sending unit! I added a drain plug to an OEM pan, and am considering a temp gauge now that there's a bung installed.
    I have an external cooler that came with the purchase of the 5.9. Was going to hold off on installing it since I wanted to go the route of AN fittings and lines to replace the hard line + rubber hose combo. The B&M pan has a spot already threaded for the temp sensor. Was most likely going to run it up into the shifter area. As for mounting the gauge...I am still looking for ideas.

    Quote Originally Posted by cowboy63b View Post
    I still don't believe your a woman, but if you are, we need to be married right MEOW....
    I swear I am! I make pessimistic posts on the 5.9 FB page every now and again. I have also been known to profess my undying love to strangers on there as well...
    Last edited by BoostinChick; 06-10-2014 at 05:33 AM.
    - Sandy

  18. #43
    Member cowboy63b's Avatar
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    pics?
    Resident speeding ticket whore

    If I offend anyone tonight, I apologize. That's not my intention. I'm not going to guess what your personal line of decency is. I cross my own from time to time. It's how I know I still have one.

  19. #44
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    It's been raining the past couple days, so I had to rip out the interior to prevent everything from getting soaked. Since the weather is preventing the install of the pan I decided to really deep clean the seats. The Lexol Cleaner was not working too well. Decided to search the Interwebz and found 2 alternatives. The first finding was Soft Scrub. It seems most folks who use this have a beige, or neutral color interior. Since there were mixed results with darker colors (black specifically) I decided it would be a better choice to pursue the 2nd option, 5:1 Woolite. This was the result....

    Before -



    After (Before treating with Lexol conditioner) -



    It seems that the spots you still see are stains that ate through the finish. The material since to be pleather not real leather. You can really tell at the spots where it's just peeling. I think these are as clean the seats will get without having to take them to a professional. Good enough for me!
    - Sandy

  20. #45
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    Our friend's 5.9 is doing the same flaking at the back of the rear seat. Hers only has 80K miles when she bought it last year, but the first time we cleaned and conditioned the seats (~85K), the leather made a large sucking sound as we applied the Meguire's. Seriously, by the time the first coat was finished, it wanted another. It easily took three treatments. My wife's, which clearly had better day-to-day maintenance, and 120K miles, has no flaking and practically vomits when I try to condition it.

  21. #46
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Lucky! It must be a cheaper leather I have never seen it flake/peel off like that. That is why I assumed it was a synthetic type leather not 100%. I may used Soft Scrub to spot treat those white circles you see to see if I can even them out, but the Woolite seemed to have done most of the dirty work.
    - Sandy

  22. #47
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    Far as I know the 5.9 is suppose to have 'calf skin' leather throughout.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  23. #48
    Steve Jobs Residential Teabagger Redsand's Avatar
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    I was always under the impression that standard limiteds = pleather and 5.9s = real leather. Alteast it smells that way...
    -Chris-

    I have a Jeep



  24. #49
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    After thinking some, typically those center sections are fake leather. Where you butt goes is real. The backs of the seats are usually fake too.

    I always hoped it was all real in the 5.9, so Im sticking with that. Only the premium baby calves in my 5.9.
    1998 Jeep 5.9- Slate Black


  25. #50
    sfn's lonely vajay jay
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    Yea - posts I have read say leather all the way around. So either my leather have defective areas, or maybe the rears (where your butt goes) are from a 5.2? I have the arm rest section, so I am assuming that's a "5.9 thing". Haven't tackled the front seats yet...
    - Sandy

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