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Thread: Crappy heat

  1. #51
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    It's a module! If you call it a resistor pack again I'm going to spank you!


    Honestly I don't know what the problem is in there now. I see the burnt connector but it doesn't look like it's melted enough that anything is making contact in there is it?

    I was thinking it was a bad relay, like it got fused inside somehow - but it's not a separate component.

    Was it a new module or used? If it's used maybe that ones' bad too.

    Possibly there's something wrong in the head unit - but I don't know too much about what goes on inside there.



    In the meantime - it looks like fuse #7 in the PDC/underhood fuse box powers the blower motor.

    You might find it easier to pull that and reinstall it when you get in and out of the Jeep, rather than having to get under the dash and unplug the connector every time.

    Just make sure the motor stops when you pull it.

  2. #52
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I actually cut the melted connector off and used some spade connectors until I get a new plug. Well it still runs even with the melted connector cut off, so it wasn't because of that. And yes it is a blower motor resistor! And I'm SOL on getting a none melted plug from my local JY.
    Last edited by apstang50; 11-18-2013 at 04:58 PM.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  3. #53
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Why SOL?

  4. #54
    Member doc holaday's Avatar
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    Crappy heat

    The reason the plug is heating up and melting is the pins on the board quit making a good connection. Like every other electrical issue in these beasts the solders crack. This adds resistance into the circuit and resistance equals heat.

    So to actually fix it you need to remelt the solder points on the board inside the module. All 3 terminals were loose on mine.
    '98 5.9L Grand Cherokee - SCT (FlyinRyan tuned), Thorley Headers, 3" Kolak Exhaust (Flowmaster 50 & Magnaflow Cat), Mopar Purple Cam, HS Roller Rockers, AEM/ Ebay CAI, 52mm BLKDAK TB, Modded Keg, MSD Ignition, 44A Aussie Locked, 3.5" IRO w Doetsch shocks, front and rear adjustable TB's, Toyo AT2 265/75R16

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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    Our '95 4.0 was VERY cold-blooded, as is our friend's '95 4.0. Another friend's former '95 5.2L would melt glaciers. It hasn't turned super-cold here yet, and both my wife and I are hoping the 5.9L will put out winter heat like a blast furnace. These posts are not making me optimistic.
    It's down to 0 degrees lately, and the 5.9L is also putting out the same heat as the 4.0L, which makes me (and particularly my wife) a sad panda. I'll pull it into the garage and try dropping the blower motor to suck out gunk, but based on how clean this ZJ was when we got it, I don't expect to find problems. I'm definitely looking for other solutions. Even when watching on the scan tool for the engine temperature to get up to 212ish (when the low-speed e-fan turns on), there's no noticeable change from when it drops down to 190. At highway speeds with these ambient air temps, it tends to just stay at 185-187 anyway.

  6. #56
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    10rad, they only have 4 zjs 2 of them have the correct connector but they are both melted like mine. Doc, it's a brand new resistor so the solder is not the issue.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  7. #57
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    I will see what I can dig up. Basically need one from a 98 with the ATC?

  8. #58
    Member doc holaday's Avatar
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    Ah dang apstang, thats sucky. Have you tried running the hvac's diagnostic? The climate control has its own built in like the pcm.

    Ak, have you tried getting the coolant system flushed out? Could be the heater core is plugged right up with crap, or even crap and a bit of an air lock from the lack of flow though. Do you block the rad off at all in the colder temps? I know up here once it starts hitting -20*c or so daily, I toss some tub surround plastic in front of the rad to partially block it off. Otherwise it never warms up. -40*c gets more plastic coverage.
    '98 5.9L Grand Cherokee - SCT (FlyinRyan tuned), Thorley Headers, 3" Kolak Exhaust (Flowmaster 50 & Magnaflow Cat), Mopar Purple Cam, HS Roller Rockers, AEM/ Ebay CAI, 52mm BLKDAK TB, Modded Keg, MSD Ignition, 44A Aussie Locked, 3.5" IRO w Doetsch shocks, front and rear adjustable TB's, Toyo AT2 265/75R16

    '87 RX-7 - RacingBeat Header, 2.25" Exhaust, CAI, RacingBeat Flywheel, LSD, Teins S Springs, Sold

    '87 RX-7 TII - Corksport 3" DP, 2.5" Custom Exhaust, Corksport CAI, BNR Stage 1 Turbo, Fidenzia AL flywheel, Spec Stage 2 Clutch, Tein S Springs, Rtek7 1.7 ECM

    '03 Polaris 8oo XCSP

    '06 Polaris 8oo HO Sportsman - 27" Mud lite XL's, Uni Air Filter, 2" level, QSC clutch kit

  9. #59
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by apstang50 View Post
    ..... Doc, it's a brand new MODULE so the solder is not the issue.
    Fixed that for you!

    It's not a resistor pack unless you have manual AC.

    We use a BLOWER POWER MODULE.

  10. #60
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I hate you John!
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  11. #61
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    ^ Note: That is not humanly possible


    Makes me wonder if mine are good. I'll have to dig into the stash in a day or so when I have time

  12. #62
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    Yes 10rad, it needs to be for ATC.

    Doc, I will have to try the diag I didn't think of that. I've flush the cooling system and heater core a few times with no change in heat output. Coolant mixture is good and no air in the system. No I don't block the rad off.
    Last edited by apstang50; 03-30-2014 at 01:17 PM.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by doc holaday View Post
    Ak, have you tried getting the coolant system flushed out? Could be the heater core is plugged right up with crap, or even crap and a bit of an air lock from the lack of flow though. Do you block the rad off at all in the colder temps? I know up here once it starts hitting -20*c or so daily, I toss some tub surround plastic in front of the rad to partially block it off. Otherwise it never warms up. -40*c gets more plastic coverage.
    I haven't flushed the heater core yet; we went through the same thing with the 4.0 and both flushing the heater core and putting in a new thermostat (and water pump) didn't do a single thing. Based on the 185*F we were hovering at during highway speeds (e-fan off), I'm going to put some cardboard in front of the radiator until we see 20*F again.

    This morning after my wife left, I noticed a puddle of coolant in her parking space too. GRRRRRR.

  14. #64
    Gear Head tazz33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    I haven't flushed the heater core yet; we went through the same thing with the 4.0 and both flushing the heater core and putting in a new thermostat (and water pump) didn't do a single thing. Based on the 185*F we were hovering at during highway speeds (e-fan off), I'm going to put some cardboard in front of the radiator until we see 20*F again.

    This morning after my wife left, I noticed a puddle of coolant in her parking space too. GRRRRRR.
    I have never had to block off any of the rad in the other 2 GC's I had and trust me -40*C is a regular thing here! I flushed out my heater core this weekend and it seamed to help just waiting for it to get colder so I can tell better?
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    So about this resistor pack..

  16. #66
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLEAN AND SLAMMED View Post
    So about this resistor pack..
    note to self....

    Terminate Kraig with extreme prejudice

  17. #67
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    See, I'm not the only one who calls it a resistor. You gotta be all technical and stuff John! So kinda back to my original crappy heat issue. I noticed last night driving home from work that my heat seamed to suddenly get hot like it should be, then go back to being warm/cold.
    Last edited by apstang50; 03-30-2014 at 01:20 PM.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  18. #68
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLEAN AND SLAMMED View Post
    So about this resistor pack..
    Quote Originally Posted by apstang50 View Post
    See, I'm not the only one who calls it a resistor. You gotta be all technical and stuff John! So kinda back to my original crappy heat issue. I noticed last night driving home from work that my heat seamed to suddenly get hot like it should be.
    No I think he was making fun of me for being persistent about CALLING IT WHAT IT IS! or making fun of you about calling it what it isn't - or something....

    Hard to tell with Kraig as he's a mean spirited sunomogun that enjoys torturing and antagonizing his fellow Jeepers



    BTW: The reason it got hot all of a sudden - you finally remembered to roll up your windows

  19. #69
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    No I think he was making fun of me for being persistent about CALLING IT WHAT IT IS! or making fun of you about calling it what it isn't - or something....

    Hard to tell with Kraig as he's a mean spirited sunomogun that enjoys torturing and antagonizing his fellow Jeepers



    BTW: The reason it got hot all of a sudden - you finally remembered to roll up your windows
    Not really helping are we? Can mods ban each other?
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  20. #70
    Member foo.c's Avatar
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    FNG here. I bought my 5.9 ago a few months ago when it was hot. I had previously flushed the cooling system and replaced the thermostat.

    Today it was 39 which is cold by Texas standards. At first today it put out marginal heat. Even after coming up to full temp, I had the thing on hi and the air was just barely warm. Basically doing nothing but fogging up my windows.

    Well, I was getting up to speed on the highway with some heavy throttle usage and all of the sudden it started pouring out hot air. And it the air kept getting hotter and hotter the longer I drove it. I finally had to turn it down and switch it to defrost mode.

    It's almost like the heater core was plugged up and then going heavy on the gas unplugged it. Either that or the blend doors suddenly fixed themselves when getting on the highway. Hopefully I don't have to do this every time I drive it to get heat.

  21. #71
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foo.c View Post
    FNG here. .....
    Well welcome to the site!

  22. #72
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I'm at a lose here. I thought maybe the problem I'm having with the blower motor running slowly with the key after installing a new blower motor resistor was being caused by a short in the heater control unit itself. I pulled the control unit out of the dash and unplugged it and the blower stayed running, so it's not that. Next I tried running a new ground to the resistor, that didn't change anything, even tried adding a new ground to the blower motor itself no change. So I'm lost and don't know what to try next. The only thing I can think of is maybe this blower motor resistor is bad, even though it's new.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  23. #73
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    The motor itself could be bad couldnt it? A winding gone bad, internally?

  24. #74
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I thought about that to but, if I unplug the blower motor and test that blower plug on the resistor side there is power there when the jeep is off. When I test that plug with the power off it has about 11.8-11.9 volts.
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


  25. #75
    Angry Midget apstang50's Avatar
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    I'm trying to get a new blend door motor. All the listings I'm finding say they are for without auto temp control. They look the same as mine, does it matter?
    98 Platimum GC 5.9 Limited Flowmaster, relocated intake temp sensor, clear corners, 35% front tint, 5% sunroof tint, white face gauges, Accel coil, Summit Racing 8MM wires, 100w fog lights w/new housings, Mopar tow hooks, Mopar Performance PCM, Summit Racing drilled/slotted rotors w/ EBC pads, K&N FIPK

    SOLD 90 Mustang LX notchback: cobra intake, 70mm TB and spacer, fender mounted CAI, 1 3/4" long tube headers, 2 1/2" offroad h-pipe, 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.73s, subframe connecters, cobra r glass hood, glass decklid, 5-spd, cobra rims, underdrive pullys, e-fan, Steeda short through shifter


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