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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Is that the switch you were talking to me about?
    I was asking about the AirTex/Duralast switches, but I'm curious about the other one too. In the meantime, I've located a used one from a junkyard. (That guy on Facebook never got back to me.)

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLEAN AND SLAMMED View Post
    How much you get outa her?
    Not as much as I'd like?
    It was a friend price, recognizing that he still needed to get the front driveshaft lengthened, the front end aligned, and a new set of tires to make it daily-driver again. I found all the replacement body clanning panels that I needed for $20 and included them, but I hadn't painted them flat-black to match the bumpers or front door panels. I also never fixed the coolant leak, but I included a new lower radiator hose. I tossed in the original '95 grill and center console lid (I upgraded to a late-model Limited to get the extra cupholders), and the original box and extra wires with instructions for the Viper remote start that I installed. It came with three keys, two remote starts, and an OEM infrared door locker/unlocker.

    At this point he's not sure if he's going to just run it to avoid putting miles in his TJ Unlimited Rubicon, give it to his girlfriend as a daily-driver, or lift it back up and have a trail thrasher to beat on.

  3. #53
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    Swapped the light switch last night (no more auto-on flickering! AND the dashlight dimmer works properly now!) and also pulled the plugs on the BCM to bypass the fog-lights-only-work-on-low-beam feature (per the KOR instructions), so now the relay can be activated under any key position and any headlight switch position. Disassembling and reassembling the plugs to keep the wiring harness intact was a huge PIA; if I was to do it again, I'd probably just cut & splice. (My wife was happy and surprised this morning to have the lights turn on automatically and not freak out.) (The pigtails for the foglights that x10radsponge picked up for me from a JY should be waiting on my doorstep, so functioning foglights in the Iceland bumper will be happening soon!)

    I also tried to change out the lightbulb for the cigar lighter, but couldn't figure out what has to happen to get the old dead bulb out. (I'll post a tech question in another thread.)

    SO, my "maintenance" list is down to:
    - fix driver's side seat heater (she wants this done sooner rather than later)
    - replace tailgate lock actuator, or at least clean it and make it work again
    - replace low-speed fan switch with the junkyard part once it arrives in the mail
    - change axle shaft u-joints

    Still need to sand/paint the front flares and get those installed, and the rock-rails.

    As for the CEL, my OBDII scanner arrived. I think for the next couple months we'll just be erasing the LDP code each time it pops up.

  4. #54
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    .... also pulled the plugs on the BCM to bypass the fog-lights-only-work-on-low-beam feature ...... Disassembling and reassembling the plugs to keep the wiring harness intact was a huge PIA; if I was to do it again, I'd probably just cut & splice.

    I also tried to change out the lightbulb for the cigar lighter, but couldn't figure out what has to happen to get the old dead bulb out. (I'll post a tech question in another thread.)


    - replace tailgate lock actuator, or at least clean it and make it work again

    we'll just be erasing the LDP code each time it pops up.

    I love the smell of progress in the mornings!


    Good that you can erase that code now. I think you said you don't have emissions testing right? ...cuz erasing generally doesn't work for passing emissions.

    I think you're doing the right thing just waiting for an SCT rather than hunting down a PCM if all you have to do is erase the code occasionally... Saving money for other good things to throw at the Jeep


    I'll see if I have a lighter setup to look at.
    Is it the kind of thing with a tin shield that holds the bulb against the lighter housing? If it is, I think maybe you squeeze the shield inwards and it pops out?

    I may be thinking of older Mopars though - like ones I've had that were up to 36 years older than our ZJs... LOLz


    Since you're already a ZJ guy I assume you know about the latch adjustment that slips and makes the hatch difficult to open? Thought I'd throw that out there just in case



    ....and ahhh, yes - the dreaded BCM connectors.

    At this point I think it's safe to say that I've been intimately involved in working with and removing pins from each and every connector throughout the ZJs - and yes, those BCM connectors have the highest level of suck.

    I will say, it took me a while to figure out something about them - I originally thought they needed a lot more disassembly to get the pins out than they really do need. After a while I figured out that (usually white) locking block in the side of them just needs to be popped back a fraction of an inch and the pins pull out the back fairly easily. (PCM connector works like that too. Absolute nightmare to get into - until I realized that little blue tab pushes over just a hair to the side, then the pins will pop right out)

    Still though, on various ones you also have to remove the back shell etc (BCM too, I think?) so it is a PITA. <-- Depends on which connector though. They use so many kinds throughout the ZJ and a few of the hold/unlock pins work in very different ways. Even found a few where the unlock pins had to be reached from the rear.

    When I got into the wiring projects I found my most valuble tools were a set of jewelers screwdrivers, and once or twice I even had to resort to pins (clothing/sewing, etc.) that were even smaller than that

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z88Z View Post
    I love the smell of progress in the mornings!


    Good that you can erase that code now. I think you said you don't have emissions testing right? ...cuz erasing generally doesn't work for passing emissions.
    Correct; no more I/M testing in Anchorage.

    I think you're doing the right thing just waiting for an SCT rather than hunting down a PCM if all you have to do is erase the code occasionally... Saving money for other good things to throw at the Jeep


    I'll see if I have a lighter setup to look at.
    Is it the kind of thing with a tin shield that holds the bulb against the lighter housing? If it is, I think maybe you squeeze the shield inwards and it pops out?
    Nope; that's for the ash tray. That one is also dead, but I know how to get to it and get it out. The one I'm talking about is the glowing ring around the cigarette lighter itself.

    I may be thinking of older Mopars though - like ones I've had that were up to 36 years older than our ZJs... LOLz


    Since you're already a ZJ guy I assume you know about the latch adjustment that slips and makes the hatch difficult to open? Thought I'd throw that out there just in case
    Had to do it on our former '95, and on our friend's 5.9L. Our latch itself is fine; it's the actual power-door lock actuator that's dead. It won't open/close with the electric door panel switches. There's at least still power going back to the harness since the third brake light works, the wiper works, the squirter works, and the alarm goes off if you open the tailgate while the rest of the doors are locked. The the tailgate itself will only lock and unlock manually using the key. I've actually got a spare actuator that a friend gave me when he moved out of state.


    ....and ahhh, yes - the dreaded BCM connectors.

    At this point I think it's safe to say that I've been intimately involved in working with and removing pins from each and every connector throughout the ZJs - and yes, those BCM connectors have the highest level of suck.

    I will say, it took me a while to figure out something about them - I originally thought they needed a lot more disassembly to get the pins out than they really do need. After a while I figured out that (usually white) locking block in the side of them just needs to be popped back a fraction of an inch and the pins pull out the back fairly easily. (PCM connector works like that too. Absolute nightmare to get into - until I realized that little blue tab pushes over just a hair to the side, then the pins will pop right out)

    Still though, on various ones you also have to remove the back shell etc (BCM too, I think?) so it is a PITA. <-- Depends on which connector though. They use so many kinds throughout the ZJ and a few of the hold/unlock pins work in very different ways. Even found a few where the unlock pins had to be reached from the rear.

    When I got into the wiring projects I found my most valuble tools were a set of jewelers screwdrivers, and once or twice I even had to resort to pins (clothing/sewing, etc.) that were even smaller than that

    Unfortunately, anti-progress last night: the switch I ordered from the junkyard arrived, and it's also dead. The pigtails arrived for the fog lights, but the fog light bulbs are dead (verified 12v all the way to the housing, and tested another ground source, all to no avail).

    My wife told me this morning that my next priority is to fix her seat heater.

  6. #56
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Someone, trying to remember where, just did a mod with some sort of heating pad instead of the wire mesh in our seats. I will try to find it. It was on JF or one of the FB groups.

  7. #57
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    I've seen that, and thought about it since I have the aftermarket pads in the garage that I'd bought for the 4.0, but I really want to try to keep the OEM system intact. I'm also giving up on the coolant switch and trying the BeCool option.

  8. #58
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    OEM agate front grab handle to be installed for the passenger arrived today! I need the measurements so i can avoid pulling the heqdliner, and bolt specs since they didn't include those two self-tappers.



    I also orchestrated a well-executed and highly documented failure on the BeCool sender/switch, so I'm not bothering to write it up. Suffice it to say I should have been less confident and not wasted time with the solder and shrink tubing before bothering to see if it would even work. Bottom line: it kicked on at 212, dropped to 183, and stayed on, eventually settling at 185.

  9. #59
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    So, you are saying that it is working but not as you want it to or is the fan just staying on....

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post

    OEM agate front grab handle to be installed for the passenger arrived today! I need the measurements so i can avoid pulling the heqdliner, and bolt specs since they didn't include those two self-tappers.
    You'll find some very helpful grab handle pics here:

    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...ht=grab+handle

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    So, you are saying that it is working but not as you want it to or is the fan just staying on....
    The fan turned on and stayed on. I suppose maybe I got a defective switch?

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    The fan turned on and stayed on. I suppose maybe I got a defective switch?
    I sent an email to the BeCool customer service department and had a lovely conversation with a tech this morning. Obviously he couldn't tell me about the 5.9L system (like most people, he assumed our fans are triggered from a signal in the PCM, etc.), but he could tell me about the switch. Yes, it's an on-off switch, but he said that it's designed specifically for the wiring to only work in one direction; ie. you can't have the voltage signal come from the grounding surface. Given that it's an on/off switch, I didn't bother to hook up a test light to determine which wire from the factory harness provides the voltage; I assumed that the switch would work either way and that it wouldn't matter. He said that it definitely matters. SO tonight I'll grab a test light and probably try swapping the wires to see if that works.

    Also, he said that the switches don't tend to be defective in only one direction (ie. either they work correctly or they fail entirely, but they shouldn't only work by turning on and never turning off).

  13. #63
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Here is a question... can a warning light be wired in some how if there is a failure of either relay to work?

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Here is a question... can a warning light be wired in some how if there is a failure of either relay to work?
    Anything is possible. (Right now if you overheat you get lights; does that count?) The question is, how do you "know" when the relay is supposed to work? You'd need to have two additional relays and probably single computer per set; a relay inserted into the circuit for the switch that would "tell" the computer that the switch activated, combined with a relay inserted into the circuit for the fan to "tell" the computer that the fan turned on. You could add a voltage-varying signal from the PCM for the actual sending unit in the engine, so that it could "tell" the computer what the engine was actually doing. Using those five inputs, combined with the known parameters for engine-temperature-fan-on/off-conditions, the computer would have all the data it needed to notify you of a relay or switch failure. It should be a relatively simple analog computer.

    If I'd majored in EE I'd be all over this. But I didn't. And I don't want to add four more relays and a computer.

  15. #65
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    I would think a simple circuit off of the power for the low speed, and to power for the high speed relay. If it closes and sends power to the fan motor, a light goes on letting you know what one has kicked on. If the high kicks on with out the low lit up, then there is an issue somewhere.

    All I can say is maybe having A.J. is a good thing.... I would never leave the garage.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    I would think a simple circuit off of the power for the low speed, and to power for the high speed relay. If it closes and sends power to the fan motor, a light goes on letting you know what one has kicked on. If the high kicks on with out the low lit up, then there is an issue somewhere.

    All I can say is maybe having A.J. is a good thing.... I would never leave the garage.
    I follow you; just a set of four simple low-amp 12v LEDs that would light up on a panel to say when each switch closed, and when each relay tripped. As long as you had them labeled and knew to pay attention, that would work.

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    My grab handles are grey , the black looks a lot better

  18. #68
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    Switch problem solved! See the tech thread for details.

  19. #69
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    On there way...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #70
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    ..... If the high kicks on with out the low lit up, then there is an issue somewhere......
    Wait... that's not right.

    I'm not always sure if I'm interpreting people correctly but that ^ would be bad (if I'm reading you right)

    If low and high are on at the same time you've got problems, and the motor is on it's way to being toast. Unless you meant the LED for high coming on after the low LED was lit and the low LED going out when high kicks on - in which case, sorry for my misinterpretation



    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    I follow you; just a set of four simple low-amp 12v LEDs that would light up on a panel to say when each switch closed, and when each relay tripped. As long as you had them labeled and knew to pay attention, that would work.
    Or maybe six? Two more to show when the relays are actually outputting the low and high speeds?

    It would be better if they could actually show if the fan was drawing power.

    I really don't know electronics but I bet that wouldn't be that hard to do. Some resistor diodey thing, LOL, wired so they can tell there's a draw on that wire - or maybe that would have to be on the ground side?

  21. #71
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    I was just thinking about an idiot light for me, so that if the temp say hits 220 you know.... like a shift light or something. I figure that if a light went off indicating that the fan is not working properly then it might save some damage. That is the basis of my thought. Just have to make it to paper and be logical with out being super complex.

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    The ZJ went in on Friday to a buddy's shop for a remote start installation. I've done it before in our '95, but the way Viper has their dealership networking set up so the wiring diagrams and instructions are all proprietary and only available through them, I knew it would be faster and more efficient to just take it in. He also put in the wiring for the steering wheel controls, but needed an adapter to finish, so it has to go back for the programming in two weeks. He wired the remote start to also trigger the seat heater relays, which then prompted my wife to demand I fix the seat heater. Done.

    So one thing I still don't understand: the blue wire just looks like it looped back and reconnected to the other black wire. What is the actual function of the blue wire? The FSM was useless in explaining how the system works.

    This afternoon's projects: axle shaft u-joints, clean gunk out of left side mirror, tailgate door lock actuator, replace fog light bulbs.

  23. #73
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    Changed axle-shaft u-joints, but ran into problems with the fog lights that came with the Iceland Offroad bumper. Namely, when I took them apart (this requires pulling the bumper), I found out that were they not sealed, they're also not serviceable:



    Of course I got this pulled apart after all the parts stores were closed. Even if I'd been motivated to solder a new bulb into that housing, it just seemed like a bad idea given the seeming lack if longevity. I do like the look of the housings though, and they fit the location perfectly. A quick trip to Walmart for some H11-55 bulbs, combined with some work on the housing with a die-grinder, and a little clear RTV gave me this:



    And now she has functioning fog lights again!

    Door lock actuator and cleaning the mirror gunk will have to wait.
    Last edited by AK-RWC; 10-28-2013 at 12:08 AM.

  24. #74
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
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    Way to work the problem and not run from it. So I take it you can now replace bulbs without removing bumper? If not, I would be looking from some LED's.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Way to work the problem and not run from it. So I take it you can now replace bulbs without removing bumper? If not, I would be looking from some LED's.
    No; there's no way to access the back of the light without pulling the bumper. Thankfully the bumper comes off easily. Ultimately I think I'll end up changing the entire light housing out for something else, but until then, this is spaced correctly and works.

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