Page 10 of 12 FirstFirst ... 8 9 10 11 12 LastLast
Results 226 to 250 of 298
  1. #226
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Quote Originally Posted by xaza View Post
    dang you are nice. I would have laughed at my wife and told her she knows where the vacuum is. I bet I sleep on the couch more than you though.
    She's also over 7 months pregnant. And she still makes me dinner every night and does all the laundry. She at least woke me up with a latte this morning!

  2. #227
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    I'm tracking down a vibration that's still present after adjusting the pinion angle, and which showed up right after the SYE installation. After reading through a thread on JF regarding a very similar problem under nearly identical circumstances, I decided to try putting the rear track bar relocation bracket on that I bought shortly after getting the 5.9L:

    It's a nice piece from Zone; much nicer than the one I had for the 4.0L (which I welded to the Dana 35). I like that it's secured by two additional lower bolts (the other was only secured by one), and also came with a sleeve for the OEM bolt. Of course nothing can be easy, and I had to slightly notch the sleeve to clear the left side bolt (or I could have shortened the bolt, but I was already torqued with LockTite). The bracket is also designed for a 4" lift, and since ours is less than that, I measured and knocked about an inch off by drilling a hole lower for the bushing. It did knock down the vibration some, but it didn't go away completely. Oh, and the axle is now centered, so I at least accomplished something.

  3. #228
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    I gave up on the vibration and took it to a friend with a shop for diagnosis. Ended up pointing to the double-cardan end of the front driveshaft. It wasn't squeaking or making sparrow noises, so I didn't think that was the culprit. Plus the u-joints were all tights. But by carefully jiggling it, and looking at the stupid ball centering thing in the middle, you could tell it was shot. They pulled the shaft and went for a ride. After re-balancing the tires, absolutely zero vibration (other than typical mud-tire vibration) at all speeds.

    $118 later to Amazon and I have a new slinger, two 5-1310-1X u-joints, and the socket-yoke assembly (with spring) on the way.

    But this also means I probably don't need to stress about rebuilding the new high-pinion Dana 30 I just picked up immediately, which is good.

    I also had the shop take another look at my odd transmission issue. They had no idea what was wrong, and without a code, they didn't even know where to begin a diagnosis. Their gut reaction was the same as mine: possibly a minor mechanical issue in the torque converter, but not necessarily.

  4. #229
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2285
    I'm looking at pulling my front drive shaft as I have a loud thunk under my feet under hard acceleration when turning to the left. Only to the left. I have a u joint one to go in and a yoke to replace the CV flange on the D30. But I want to rebuild the carden and replace u joints. What is a I recognize the u joints what are the other parts you got?

  5. #230
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    The slinger is just a short/fat rubber tube that keep the grease in the center ball socket. The socket-yoke assembly is the ball thingy. The official names/part-numbers:
    Spicer 211544X Socket Yoke Assembly





    DL-SP-1310-1330-1350- SLINGER


  6. #231
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Three months later, and I still haven't rebuilt the driveshaft. We've now had our first snow, and I'm about to put the winter tires on. My wife gave me a "WTF?" look when I pointed out to her that she didn't have 4x4 at the moment. This was followed by my pointing out that I needed more garage time since I needed to get my Scrambler rolling again so that I could get her Jeep back in the garage, and my pointing out that my Scrambler has only now been functional again for a couple days. This didn't get my any bonus points.

    Also, we had a baby, so that's eaten a lot of time lately.

    In the meantime, a crack in the windshield finally spread from the passenger side to be directly in the driver's line-of-sight, so I took the baby with me to work this morning while she went in for a new windshield. $200 later and it's much nicer now!

  7. #232
    Forum CONDUCTOR Man Z88Z's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    near Boston
    Posts
    9,643
    Rep Power
    217378
    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    ............Also, we had a baby,

    We've now had our first snow..........

    On the first part - CONGRATULATIONS!

    On the second part - not so much. ick!

  8. #233
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2285
    Congrats on the New Jeeper!

  9. #234
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Thanks, guys! He came home from the hospital in the 5.9L, under an MB/GPW baby-blanket. I honestly wanted to bring him home in the Scrambler, but that was a bad idea for a variety of reasons, and it wasn't functional at the time anyway. He's since had his first ride in it though.

    Last night after dinner I rebuilt the driveshaft. I'll put it in tonight and hopefully it'll solve the grinding issues. The centering ball was definitely shot as it came apart in pieces, but sadly the u-joints were all Spicer 5-1310X which were in PERFECT shape. But since I had new ones, and these were coming out anyway, they got replaced. The 5-1310-1X has a zerk in one of the caps, so it's greasable. I'll call it an upgrade, and probably hold on to the old ones anyway since I can use them as spares for the front u-joint.

  10. #235
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    No go. Still had a slight vibration, although much better. I took the shaft in for a professional diagnosis and was told it needs a new slip joint. I picked up the driveshaft and yup, it just barely has an issue. I wouldn't even notice it in a CJ, but on the 5.9L I believe how it'd cause an issue. They wanted $3XX to replace the slip joint (I don't even remember the final number as I choked when I heard $300). As much as I want to support local, that hurts. Going back to order from Adam's Driveshaft! I'll keep these u-joints and centering ball for spares since now I've got 5 driveshafts that all use the same configuration.

  11. #236
    Junior Member Bajabronco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    15
    Rep Power
    0
    Great build! Inspired me to get a 5.9

  12. #237
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Quote Originally Posted by Bajabronco View Post
    Great build! Inspired me to get a 5.9
    Woot! Glad I could inspire somebody! How's your Z88Z treating you? You going to start a build thread?


    On another note: Adam's Driveshaft hooked me up again! They're going to build the new shaft on Monday and have it shipped by Tuesday. I cannot believe how AWESOME they are!

  13. #238
    Junior Member Bajabronco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    15
    Rep Power
    0
    Its treating me right! -I might start a build thread, but I am just doing all the standard stuff. I replaced the old, faded headlights, put new glass on the drivers side mirror (still have to do the memory fix) changed plugs, new DUI wires, have a new MSD coil to put on, CAI installed, got T-case rebuilt, center console re-upholstered, new drivers side front axle, new heavy duty track bar. Got a new stereo ready to go in, new lift gate shocks, planning on re-painting the hood vents and rear louvers one weekend with my brother, have some headers that I have to get motivated to put on, and thats about it! Might get some black 18" cobra rims in time, but the tires I have are still good. I notice a lot more body roll in the truck than I thought it would have. I need to check the sway bar bushings and see if they are still good, if so maybe upgrade the sway bars. - Its become my new daily driver, and I love how it goes like a bat out of hell when I push down on the skinny pedal! Its a lot different than driving both the lifted XJ and the Early Bronco - its nice and plush!

  14. #239
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Springfield, Ma
    Posts
    335
    Rep Power
    57
    Quote Originally Posted by AK-RWC View Post
    I'm tracking down a vibration that's still present after adjusting the pinion angle, and which showed up right after the SYE installation. After reading through a thread on JF regarding a very similar problem under nearly identical circumstances, I decided to try putting the rear track bar relocation bracket on that I bought shortly after getting the 5.9L:

    It's a nice piece from Zone; much nicer than the one I had for the 4.0L (which I welded to the Dana 35). I like that it's secured by two additional lower bolts (the other was only secured by one), and also came with a sleeve for the OEM bolt. Of course nothing can be easy, and I had to slightly notch the sleeve to clear the left side bolt (or I could have shortened the bolt, but I was already torqued with LockTite). The bracket is also designed for a 4" lift, and since ours is less than that, I measured and knocked about an inch off by drilling a hole lower for the bushing. It did knock down the vibration some, but it didn't go away completely. Oh, and the axle is now centered, so I at least accomplished something.
    Keep an eye on these bolts and the stock bracket. I have one identical on mine that came with my BDS LA kit. It works well but my factory bracket cracked at the welds, loosening up the bolts a bit (or visa/versa...bolts loosened a tad which strained the bracket). I ended up having it welded on to overall strengthen the integrity of the factory bracket.

  15. #240
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan13 View Post
    Keep an eye on these bolts and the stock bracket. I have one identical on mine that came with my BDS LA kit. It works well but my factory bracket cracked at the welds, loosening up the bolts a bit (or visa/versa...bolts loosened a tad which strained the bracket). I ended up having it welded on to overall strengthen the integrity of the factory bracket.
    I'll watch it. I want to take the axle out to build a truss anyway and planned on reinforcing the bracket then anyway.


    in the meantime, the new front shaft arrived:

    More compression, more extension (good for the HP 30 I have in the garage for it), and much larger splines on the slip-joint. Adams Driveshaft rocks!

    edit: Just installed the shaft and the vibration is gone! I noticed that they also used the greaseable centering ball rather than the non-greaseable with the oil slinger. Also, the u-joints are the cheaper greaseable rather than the hardened, but they are still Spicer-brand 1310s, so I'm OK with that. :-)

  16. #241
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Minor update:

    Still have a high-pinion 30, rebuild kit, and older NIB TrueTrac waiting to go together, but I need to order the reverse-rotation 3.73 gears. (Unless I can find a set from an older YJ.) This will be the next "major" step in the 5.9L's evolution. I'd also like to do an Artec truss while I'm at it.

    Until then, the Scrambler has continued to occupy my attention, until recently. I've noticed issues with winching operations in the past being a HUGE draw on the electrical system (larger than it probably should be IMHO), which of course is aggravated by the e-fan turning on, which happens more when winching because I have to rev the motor to keep up with the electrical demand. In the last couple months, I've further noticed the e-fan putting even more of a draw on the alternator than it had been when we first got the ZJ. (It has a replacement 5.2L alternator rather than the OEM 150 amp version.) So I've been thinking about either the Durango upgrade, or just picking up a 200 amp Mean Green alternator, or talking to a local shop to do one.

    We've also had to jump start the Jeep three times between mid-December and mid-January, which theoretically shouldn't be necessary since the Sears DieHard Gold was less than two years old.

    But starting with the battery, I took it in for Sears to warranty it. After having to wait for them to test it twice, it did fail their test (the second time, because I wanted to see the result and didn't believe it actually passed the first time). So with the new warranty battery, I paid the extra $55 to upgrade to the Gold AGM. One problem solved. Last week, while waiting in line to get a coffee, the e-fan's electrical draw really got my attention, with it dropping well below 12v. I checked with a somewhat local rebuilder, who could do an all-new 200 amp Denso alternator with the larger stator for $300. I went ahead and put $150 down on it last Friday so they could order the parts needed to make it 200 amps. Which was good, because on Saturday, the alternator twice gave me fits and threw "check bat" codes from the VIC; at one point it registered 0v, the other time just the fan kicking on dropped it down below 9v or 10v. I should have the new alternator tomorrow.


    OH; and the Prestige remote start has been completely sucking lately. Its range was always crappy, but it''ll now start, and the shut down; start and run again, and then shut down; start and run fine for a while, and then shut down; start, and again run for a minute, and shut down. I've also heard it grinding the starter. This is INCREDIBLY frustrating. To the point where I'm discouraging my wife from using the remote start, and I desperately want to upgrade it to a Viper.

  17. #242
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    38
    Rep Power
    81
    Whenever my fan motor was going out it started drawing large amps and I'd see my volt guage take a big drop.

    The 5.9 fan was never great at keeping it cool it harsh conditions. Chrysler even has a bulletin regarding 5.9s overheating when towing. It instructs you to remove the electric fan and install the mechanical one from a 5.2l.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also the 5.9l alternator has a smaller pulley on it so that it spins faster at idle thus makes more amps at idle which is what you need with the efan.
    I'd go back to the 5.9 alt. Did you swap pulleys when you put in the 5.2 alt? Hopefully you still have the smaller 5.9 pulley. Also the 5.9 uses a shorter belt to account for the smaller pulley.

  18. #243
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    It got a new fan motor last year. (And a FlowKooler pump, and all-welded all-aluminum radiator.) Keeping it cool isn't a serious issue anymore. I'm also familiar with the towing TSB, but it causes a HP draw which is why the 5.9L came with the e-fan.

    This ZJ already had the alternator swapped when we got it. What's the diameter of the 5.9L pulley?

  19. #244
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2285
    Might this help? http://www.ebay.com/itm/191609970246...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    - - - Updated - - -

    Plus its nice to see ya again....

  20. #245
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    701
    Rep Power
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by x10radsponge View Post
    Interesting find...
    That one's 1-7/8" diameter, anybody with an original niner alternator care to measure the original pulley diameter?

    I never considered this until now (didn't know they were different sizes), but if there's a significant difference between the pulley diameters it could make more of a performance impact than the extra 14 amps capacity of the different windings. The fans typically kick on when you're idling, so the highest demand is at lowest output.

  21. #246
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    x10radsponge, I haven't gone anywhere! I still check TSF once per day. I just haven't been posting much because the 5.9L hasn't needed/required work lately. My Scrambler thread has had several updates, however.

    I picked up the alternator this morning, and mentioned the discussion on our thread. The problem was nobody had posted up the diameter for a stock alternator. The rebuilder offered to put an underdrive pulley on there, and had it swapped before I had a chance to even think about it. So, all-new alternator, upgraded stator, and underdrive pulley. Now I just need to figure out what the correct part number is for the shorter belt I obviously need, and I'll have an update worth discussing!

    This morning, my wife hit the remote-start, and when she got in the ZJ, the "low bat" or "check bat" or whatever indicator was on the VIC, and the gauge was well below 9v. I had her rev it, and it came back up to 14v for like a second, and dropped right back down to 10v.

    EDIT:

    Looking back at the thread on underdrive/overdrive pulleys, I'm thinking I should join back on the FB groups and just unfollow them. That way I can still go back and meekly search for useful information when it's discussed.

  22. #247
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2285
    Original is 2.5 inches I believe.

    - - - Updated - - -

    http://thespeedfreaks.net/showthread...086#post156086

    the March and Stock pulley dimensions are on here. Thanks Logan and Sandra respectively.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Correction. Stock is 2.25 inches.

  23. #248
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    559
    Rep Power
    4401
    Installed the alternator last night:

    In pulling the old 136 amp one out, I couldn't help but notice the corrosion and blackening on the copper for the main charging wire for the alternator. There were a few wires broken, and the ring connector was just crimped rather than soldered with heat-shrink. Which makes me think that at least some of my charging problem is related to the wiring. I cleaned all the ring connectors anyway, and did the same with the ground for the block that sits right below the alternator as well. I'd also like to point out that apparently the PO swapped the pulley to the OEM 5.9L pulley since it was the same size as the smaller pulley the rebuilder installed for me.

    While there was definitely a change, I'm still not seeing the 14v at idle like I should be, which means the next project is to replace all the heavy-gauge leads between the alternator/battery/PDC etc. (Anybody know off the tops of their heads what gauge these wires are?)

    What was good: at 1500 RPM, with every light on, low-speed e-fan, both wipers going, blower motor on high, both seat heaters on, the auxiliary sub pumping, and both washer-squirters on, I had a solid 14v. But as soon as I let it idle, it dropped down to 10v.

  24. #249
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    701
    Rep Power
    43
    Hmm... I just measured my 136A pulley, and it's 2.25" OD where the belt runs, and close to 2.5 at the flanges. Is that the same size you have, or is the 2.25" measured at the flange? Lest you think I'm an idiot, I wouldn't expect this, but can't figger out why my aftermarket 136A would have a 5.9 pulley. I know I didn't swap it because I didn't know better then.

  25. #250
    im super special x10radsponge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    3,205
    Rep Power
    2285
    Did a measure earlier. Stock is 2.25 or 57mm at peak of the ribs

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •